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Old 12-25-2008, 03:47 PM
Eston Newbern Eston Newbern is offline
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HELP!! with 1965 stock drum brk problem

I'll be brief
Truck sat for 5 years without moving

I replaced
ALL shoes
ALL wheel cylinders
Master cylinder
The REAR wheel cylinders are NOT retracting AFTER letting OFF the pedal, brakes remain ON.

I have NOT yet pulled the front drums to see if I have the same problem.

I was told the RUBBER/FLEX hose going FROM the metal line to the junction ( at rear ) was the problem< I replaced that and still have the problem.

What is the function of the line on the junction that has a rubber line going up to frame? Is it a bleeder?

ANY suggestions? I really don't have the $$ to tow it to a shop, I have purchased the front hoses to put on latter.

HELP
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:43 PM
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3broncocrazy 3broncocrazy is offline
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you might have to ask this over in the tech forum, I have no idea, not a good brake man....
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Old 01-02-2009, 12:04 AM
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Welcome to FTE Eston, Do you have springs that pull the shoes back in after you let off the brake?
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:37 AM
exidenick exidenick is offline
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Here are a couple of things that I have found
1) did you repace the springs they lose tension sitting for extended periods
2) did you clean and lube the contact pads on the backing plate. Thet get corroded and will not allow the shoe to retract properly
Where are you located maybe someone can help you
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Old 01-02-2009, 10:39 PM
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Bill W Bill W is offline
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Along with the contact points you need to lube the adjusters, threads and caps.

Question? how far can you pull the e-brake handle back?

If you only get a few clicks before it stops, loosen the adjusters so the brakes are not so tight.
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Old 01-02-2009, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill W View Post
Along with the contact points you need to lube the adjusters, threads and caps.

Question? how far can you pull the e-brake handle back?

If you only get a few clicks before it stops, loosen the adjusters so the brakes are not so tight.
Bill, the brake adjusters really have nothing to do with how tight the emergency brake is.

If you back off the adjusters to loosen the cables, it may work, but it's not the correct way to do it.

There are three e-brake cables. Where the cable from the dash mounted e-brake control meets the two rear cables, there's an equalizer bar there that has an adjustable rod attached on it.

All three cables attach to the equalizer bar.

Tightning up the nut on the rod takes up the slack in the cables.

If the rear brake shoes were replaced, and someone forgot to re-adjust the cables, there's the problem.

I would not recommend using any lube anywhere inside the brake drums, because it could end on the brake shoes.

These trucks came from the factory with self adjusting brakes, which only work when the truck is backed up and the brake pedal applied.

Within a few short years, these adjusters become next to worthless because the self adjuster cables stretch.

More times than not, the cables snap, then the self adjuster cable guides bump around inside the drums, and may end up between the drums and the brake shoes, which when the brakes are applied, gouges the hell out of the drums.

NAPA used to sell a kit to replace those self adjusters.

The self adjusting system is the same thing as the cars used, but some of the parts are truck only.

btw: The OP has two threads on this topic. He asked what was the function of the tube that fits into the rear brake hose junction block. He thought it was some sort of bleeder.

I explained to him in the other thread that it's the rear axle vent, and it just passes thru the junction block and threads into the axle housing.
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Old 01-02-2009, 11:17 PM
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1965, 2000, adjustment, blockaxle, brake, brk, emerg, eston, ford, junction, newbern, rear, rubbers, truck, vent

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