Here are what I am thinking of ordering by this weekend before the sale ends. Would be great if you guys could check the order of the tunes and the picks to confirm since it is the F5 and will have to return for the re-burn. Also, if someone who knows can explain if the drive-thru tune is worth it for stock injectors and if there is any use for the 140 Aggresive except smoke, how much smoke? Can you also affirm my understanding of the 60 and 80 tow modes, which is you can tow more than the 80 shows but have to watch EGT. Before install of the tuner I will also be installing a 4" exhaust, 6637 intake, CCV, CCK, HPX, and Gauges so you can base your suggestions on that. Thanks guys!

P.S. - My truck is an Early 99 with a 2001 PMT1 PCM

• F5 1-16 Position Switch on the fly Chip
• Product ID: DP-F5C
• Price: $513.90
• Vehicle: 1999 Ford F-250

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• Multi-Position Switch* EX Remote Switcher Green
• EX Remote Switcher Mount JMS EX Switcher In-Dash Mount Option
• Position 0 No Start
• Position 1 Stock
• Position 2 Hi-Idle RPM - 1100 - for Warmup – EBV will be closed for fast warmup
• Position 3 80hp Econo - Daily driving for mileage
• Position 4 Drive-thru – for a good quiet idle - especially single shots
• Position 5 120hp Race
• Position 6 140hp Aggressive
• Position 7 80hp Tow - recommended for towing 5K to 9K at sea level and altitude
• Position 8 None

 

I would recommend

stock
hi idle
60 tow
80
140 agressive
drivethru.

 

Can you give the reasoning for the 60 tow change and the 120 Race delete. Also, forgot to ask do you need to always start in stock? Or just in the mornings? And when you switch tunes can it be done anytime when no heavy load is on engine ie. idling, rolling to a stop and cruising at a constant speed. Can you click fast through the tunes or should you give it a sec before clicking through each one, thx

 

i used to have all the tunes imaginable, and only drove on the 60 tow, 80, and 140. There is no noticable difference between 80 and 100 and 120, but 140 is alot stronger down low until the HPO falls off, at which 60t would blow it away. I always liked how 60t shifted, and hated how 80e shifted, and tried several times to get him to put the 60t transmission files onto the 80e engine files, and never got what i was looking for. You do not need to start in stock, just not in high idle. Switching can be done anytime not under a load, because it is still uncertain what exactly is happening in that few milliseconds where you change the program. If you switch fast enough while the . is still illuminated, it will not change through each program, just change to the one it ends up in.

 

What about the shifting didn't you like on the 80E? Smoke difference between the 120 and the 140 Aggresive?

 

the fact that it seemed like i had a small car with a CVT transmission, like stretching a rubber band. I like the feeling of positive shifting, driving a 5 speed, where every ratio is "locked in" (IE torque converter is locked), and the vehicle speed increases proportionally to the engine speed, in that gear ratio. The 80e transmission shifting kept the TC unlocked too much for my liking, and i was always hitting the TC lock switch, and it loved to stay in overdrive. Just another reason one day i'll have a joystick hooked into a PCS controlling my transmission.

140 made a hell of alot more smoke than 120.

 

So do you see any issue with just skipping 120race and just going with the 140 since I really will just be messing around and don't need 2 speed tunes. As long as I watch EGT 140 should be fine right?

 

I agree the 80 locks in to OD to early and stays in too long IMO.

 

Looking back on it, I would have skipped the 120. You just need to watch the EGTs

 

I like the way 80E holds overdrive but wish the shifts were like the tow tunes

 

I wouldn't worry about the 120...If you're gonna get only one high horsepower tune get the 140. The 80e and the 120 race are almost the same speed wise.

 

Not to be contrarian to Kris(and the others that posted since I started typing) but I thought I would give you my perspective on things.

I think the drive thru tune is pretty useless in the drive thru with stock injectors and a straight pipe exhaust like I have.

I have the 60t and 80e tunes and really prefer the 80 e over the 60 T for daily driving. 60T is a little laggy off the line for my liking and the tranny shifted fine for me in the 80 e, pre-and post VB. I do use 60 t when towing the horses or in the rain. I also use it to plow snow when the few flakes that have fallen around here in the last year hit the ground. I like having the 120 because you can run around in it without things getting too hot and it is a little quicker and more powerful (by the seat-o-the-pants dyno) than the 80 E and 140 aggressive isn't "supposed" to be driven around in. I do drive in 120 a decent amount and when I want to really soot someone, that 140 comes in really handy. I also have the decel tune and like it a good amount too. I just had Jody move it to between my tow tune and 80E.

I like the high idle for warming up, but since I got the remote start, I don't use it very much at all, although it does come in handy when you are hot-shotting someone.

I have the smoke lope tune, because my kids really liked it when Kris used his at Smokin' last spring, but I have used it maybe 10 times since I got it. I am a lot older than Kris so I don't really have an opportunity to "show off" like he does.

 

Much if any MPG loss with the 120?

 

I dont really calculate it anymore unless Im doing just all highway driving. When Im in the 120, or 140 Im getting on it and "hot rodding" so my MPGs are going to to be chit anyway.

 

Hell, my rag hasnt moved in a few months, not doing any showing off like that!