Julie, always glad to help. John

 

Don't know if you noticed but I can disconnect the pistons and open the front end even more and the cable holds it 90 degrees to the ground so there is plenty of room to work, also if you look the wires for lights are quick disconnect so the entire front end can be removed in about 15 min. John

 

John,the before and after pictures tell a great story of the work you are doing. Let me know when you get them downloaded. Thanks Tim

 

Tim, I will, Merry Christmas and or Happy Holidays. John

 

Hi John,

I wanted to ad a comment to this if for no other reason to bump it back to the top.

I have gotten a lot of requests for my files on my efforts on building my one piece full tilt on the 51 F1. A LOT of peopel are interested in this.

I'd like to keep the thread going to compare a couple of things for reference to future inquiries.

A couple of things we may want to look at are the differences between all stock metal components Vs fiberglass one piece; dual outside hydraulic lift Vs single center electric lift; "docking" arrangements; lock down arrangements; front slide before lift; etc.

I've sent my build file out to at least 30 people so this is a hot topic.

There are a couple other guys with some great ideas as well. JUMP IN GUYS!!!!!

So, bump to top!!!!!

Julie

PS I have a 51 F1, all original sheet metal, bolted, full front tilt, with single centered 400# rated electric lift.

 

Thanks for the photos of your filt front end power actuators. I put a "manual" tilt steel front end on my 58, but I hope to someday add some type of hydraulic or electric actuators and your photos are a big help.
Tom

 

It's very easy and inexpensive to do - less than $150 if you go with a single electric lift. And it only took me a couple hours to fab the brackets and install them.

One big advantage I found to having the lift instead of just yanking the thing up was that when I just pulled it up, it started to torque al the pieces out of whack and not fit right.

When you are ready, there are pictures in my #1 gallery or I can just send the write up and all the pics to you and you can use what you want. Just send me a PM with a real e-mail address to send it to.

Julie!

 

Tom, let me know if I can answer any question when you do, I'll help as best I can. Something you can do meanwhile is to maybe use some gas props to hold the front up, John

 

Just a note on the underside of the tilt front end , I used a splater trunk paint material to finish the rough fiberglass off and then sprayed that with clear cote. Thought that may be helpful to anyone using fiberglass parts. I drive my truck in the rain and have had it out in the winter on nicer days with out any problems.

 

Julie...do you still have those files?

Mind if I join the club?

 

i really like the hydraulic lift. i actually did the electric actuators, but i went with 2. one one each side of the frame rail pretty much in the same position as your hydraulic cylinders. electric was the only way to go for me 'cause ive never done anything hydraulic. i dont have any actual pictures of my actuators but i will get some on here soon. by the way very nice trucks.

 

...bump...:-x0a6

 

john/hlptruck
Wondering if you could tell me what year Cadillac the hydraulic pump is from and is it
for convertible top? By the way, great job on your truck.
Thanks
Gary

 

Hi Gary, I think the pump, cylinders and hydraulic lines are from a 1976 Cadillac.I cant remember what year G.M. stopped building convertibles. I bought all the parts and fittings new from a company in Florida that sells Hydraulics, I don't remember their name but they advertise in Hemmings Motor News under services. The cylinders were aluminum and can be polished to look like chrome. The brackets I made myself using a pin type brackets off a Mustang convertible to hold the cylinders. Hope this helps, John Just noticed you live in California, there is also a company there that sells the same parts that also advertise in Hemmings.

 

John that's awsome I like the interior/exterior coordination.