When I go to start my truck after sitting over night (0*-10*) I go to crank the motor and I get a clicking under the dash and it wont start. If I don't get the clicking sound it fires right up, but sometimes it will start to turn over and the clicking starts and then no start. Batteries and glow plugs are good.

This problem started last summer when the batteries were going bad. When they would set very long they would loose their charge and I would get the clicking sound under the dash and no start. I had no problems after I changed the batteries until now. With a meter they have about 14.2 volts and when cranking about 13.4 volts. The last two mornings I have had to jump it to get it started. Is there some kind of relay under the dash I need to look for? I haved tried to read all the other no start posts, but haven't seen this issue. Thanks

 

Insufficient power to a relay is my guess... Check your cables...

EDIT: At both ends of them....

 

Checked cables, good on both ends. Is there a relay that can go bad and cause a voltage drop?

 

Im having the same exact problem right now. batteries r new. Im thinking a relay coulda gone bad. hmm... any ideas anyone? i need to get it started i got work tomorrow. Were looking at (-15 here)

 

So far im guessing the fuels geled up, the Oil is molases, and the charging system is frozen solid. Average temp is december is 36*, its -15*F. everything on the truck is frozen up. Ive got the block heater plugged in and the batteries are charging. Theres not much i can do. The 4 places closest to me are all out of antigel (power service 911 and everything else) what can i use as an antigel. I dont have any kerosene. Any ideas on getting this truck warmed up?

 

I can't stress it enough, the clicking relays are practically always low voltage from bad batteries, dirty, or loose terminals.Clean and tighten your posts, if that doesn't do it then check battery voltage. The clicking relays are low voltage from some cause.

If you are close to time for an oil change you will be amazed at how much better the engine will turn over in cold conditions with 5w-40 oil instead of 15w40.

 

Im really kicking myself now for not putting in synthetic last oil change (1000 miles ago)

Im gonna clean the posts. The batteries have to be charged - its a bad connection somehwere. Thanks

 

Me too. But it was such nice weather when I changed it last. I normally run a 10,000 mile interval but I'm going to dump it at 4,500 tomorrow to get some 5w-40, that should make the weather warm back up.

If you have another running vehicle you can jump with or a booster charger, I'd hook them up when you try to start it next.

I tried to pour some 15w-40 out of a jug yesterday at 10* above and it was just slightly thinner than honey.

 

Before you kick yourself too much over the oil, I'd go pull your fuel filter real quick and see if your fuel is gelled up. If you're only supposed to be at 36 for a normal low, there's a good chance the fuel isn't properly treated for -15 anyway. Anti-gel, 911 & kerosene are all I know of to use.

I know I'm not much help, but if it were -15 here I'd just stay home, but I'm a cold weather wimp.

 

lol well i tried every trick under the sun! Get this - pulled my 6637 and put a hair dryer full blast into the intake, blocked heater plugged in, wd-40, and just got enough juice to get it running! The fuel seems to be ok, its been idling a while and im pretty sure its good to go. Thanks for your help guys. As for the synthetic swtich after running dino for 300,000 .... is this recommended?i know my engine is all gunked up and that may be whats holding it together.

 

I switch back and forth between the Rotella 5w-40 and Delo 15w-40 every year, I don't think you're going to hurt anything. Diesels don't build sludge inside the crankcase like gassers do.

I would recommend that you get yourself to a truck stop and get some Diesel 911 ASAP. It's a lifesaver in cold weather.

 

Are all 300k yours, and have you changed the oil like you're supposed to? I decided to re-torque my injectors and rocker arm bolts, so at 255k I pulled my valve covers for the first time. By looking underneath, I would have guessed there was only a couple of thousand miles on the engine. If you've taken care of it, I don't think gunk is any kind of issue.

 

Batteries are new and connections are clean and tight. It doesn't do it every time. Sometimes when I start to crank it starts clicking and so I turn the key off and try again and it starts, and other times it starts first try. The battery voltage stays over 13 volts when cranking, so I am wondering if there is a relay going bad and where I would find it.

 

I had the exact same intermittent problem, cleaning and then taking the post terminals down really tight solved it.

 

Do these trucks have voltage regulators? This could be an issue... my 90' acted like that once & it was the voltage reg.