I have an 05 supercrew lariat that I will be installing new speakers in the doors. I know the front speaker panels just pop off but I remember hearing that the rear was not quite as simple. If anyone could give me some advice I would appreciate it.
I don't have firsthand knowledge, but I dont see why Ford would really alter the install/removal process too much from front to back. They work a numbers game, and the faster they can put it together (using common fasteners), the easier it is. I would just say watch for any fasteners around the armrest areas.
Yes, you must remove the rear door panel to get to the rear speakers. DO NOT attempt to remove the grey grills in the rear as they are not the same as the front. Never made much sense to me, I wish the rears were as easy as the front.
To change the front speaker you need only remove the grill, but i'll give you the whole thing incase you want to rewire or mount crossovers or whatnot. okay here we go.
1) Pop off the speaker grill. There is a small notch on the forward side. Slip a tape covered screwdriver in there and pop up the grill. Continue the same around until removed.
2) Remove the speaker. 4 - 5.5mm screws. Disconnect speaker wire harness. Remove black water sheild. Use pliers to remove the bottom 2 speaker-mounting spacers.
3) Open the small access panel by the door handle with the screwdriver. Remove 2 bolts behind (8mm I think)
4) Using a protected butter knife pop up and off the panel where the window/door controls are. Disconnect wires. Remove 10mm bolt inside.
5) Remove 2 - 6mm screws at bottom of door.
7) Firmly slide entire trim panel up and away. Note, the door cable is still attached.
8) From the backside unclip and slide through the opening, the door latch handle.
Rear Supercab Door.
1) Pull off 2 trip parts next to window. (can be done by hand, give them a good yank)
2) Remove small Access panel and 2 bolts behind as above. Also remove the door handle itself
3) Remove window controls as above. Remove 10mm Bolt.
you speakers should just screw right in, you can get an adaptor for the wires or cut, solder and heat shrink or (twist together and tape if you can't soldier) with the wires that came with speaker. here's a wiring diagram from: 2007 Ford F150 Truck Car Stereo Wiring Diagram
2007 Ford F150 Truck Car Radio Stereo Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Light Green/Violet
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Light Green/Yellow
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Light Green
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/White
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green/Orange
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Light Blue
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Pink
i just put 4 new door speakers (kenwood 3ways), and a sub under my drivers rear seat in my 05 supercab. the instructions up above are exact. and best buy sells and adapter that plugs into your factory harness in the doors, and has regular stab connectors on the other end. (i had to go to the car audio section of the store, and actually ask for a tech that installs to come from the back and he went and got the adapters for me from the back......they were 11.99 for a pair of speakers......
I'am getting 4 pioneer 6x8 triaxle's from Ms Claus this year for my 05F150 screw, thanks for the info I will also be using it. I will not be changing out the factory radio. It has plenty for me. One question though, I know that there is a combantion of buttons you can hit on the factory unit that runs a speaker check, but can't remember the combo, does anyone know it?
mine sounds good, I have 4 5x7 alpine type S running off a jvc h/u, a Kicker cvt (lo pro) in a homemade sealed box, made it as big as i could fitting under the rear seat in my screw with a memphis 1000.1 amp.
PS had the deck and amp from the civic, got the alpines from ebay 117 bucks for both sets shipped to canada (brand new)
i had the privilage (while waiting on my sub and head unit to come in the mail) to hook up my kenwood 3ways in the doors while still on the factory head unit. so i can say from experience that the factory unit is CRAP! sorry to burst any bubbles but i didnt notice hardly any difference in sound, till i got my sony xplod head unit which is still only putting out 23.2w rms to my 60w rms kenwoods, and the difference was night and day! plus my head unit has a good 7 band eq built in which helps! they crank and have great bass for 6x8 door speakers!
the sub i got from a guy on ebay. he builds custom boxes that fit under the rear seats. i opted for the single 10" kicker CVT (slim series) with the amp built into the box. my system sounds great now!
my amp is only putting 200w rms to my sub which can handle 400w rms, so i plan on getting a bigger amp to power the sub to its full potential, and then the amp i got with the sub (kicker zx200.2) will put out 70w rms to my doors which will be perfect for them.
i dont know what the factory head units put out, but id be suprised if it were more than 5 watts rms.....IF YOUR PLANNING ON PUTTING AFTERMARKET SPEAKERS ON A STOCK HEAD UNIT YOU ARE WASTING YOUR TIME! YOU WILL NOT NOTICE HARDLY ANY DIFFERENCE AT ALL! just speaking from experience.....
heres the one i got. you can get 2 10's, 2 12's, or a single 12. i opted for this one because the amp sits in the box. if i would've gotten the single 12 i would have had to find a spot somwhere in the truck to mount the amp