I thought I was going to have my snow plow project ready for the first snow. Well in the past threee days we've had two snow storms with around 20" total accum. The day before I buttoned everything up and was ready to go. I put in coolant and then coolant leak...... Its a 96 F250 with a sandwich style oil cooler between the block and the oil filter. It has two ports that connect to the lower radiator coolant hose. The "sandwich" block has sprung multiple pinhole leaks. Where can I find an aftermarket product? Also, I havn't got a good look at it yet because I need to pull the pwr steering bracket off. How do I remove this sandwich block. Is it bolted on? Or Is is screwed onto the oil port? Or both Or neither. Is there any thing else I should order when buying a new one...o'rings, screws ect...

Any help much appreciated.

96' F250 5.8L

 

That part I believe you should be able to get from a Ford dealer. Check with ftepartsguy.

 

Thanks. I'll check ftepartsguy. Everything I bought from my dealer, I have subsequently found aftermarket for less than 1/2. I know..I know...their not genuine...but I'm tired of paying big bucks for an old plow truck.

 

plenty of places to get ford parts for a discount.

even dealers give discounts if you ask sometimes.

 

I don't see any fasteners. I think it either screws on in one piece or you unscrew the main oil port in the center and the whole thing sits on a big o ring.

Also, do you see the little pits on the top of the cooler? Those are the pin hole leaks. This rusty motor has nickel and dimed me to death. I wish I bought a complete motor when I first bought the truck.

This is my first rebuild, I don't even know if the beast is going to start/run. I wonder if I should just jbweld the cooler and see if the motor starts. If I could get a year out of it, I could justify buying a new cooler in the spring.

Part from Ford $210 After Market ftepartsguy 89

My big fear is taking it off this rusty motor and potentially damaging the seat which may mean buying the a whole block.

Opinions?

 

96 F250 5.8L

F4TZ6A642A cooler list $236.73 sell $ visit my site, but it's not $89 and I sell factory OEM Ford parts.

Ed

 

Weird. I could swear I saw it this morning at work for 89. Though I thought that was a lot it was almost worth it. I've seen billet aluminum ones for 39.... think I'll search for some of those. Thanks for the help. I'll keep you in mind one other items as they appear.

 

COOL, NO PROBLEM.

Ed

 

A lot of the billet aluminum ones route the oil out of the engine, to a cooler, then back to the filter. I don't know how the stock adapter works, but for some reason I was thinking that it was the heat exchanger and that coolant was passed through the adapter on its way to the water pump inlet. If that's the case and the stock adapter/heat exchanger got replaced with an aftermarket billet one, you would have oil and coolant mixing and that wouldn't be pretty.

The stock adapter looks pretty easy to remove, with that hex cut into the center of the bolt/stud. You could temporarily get a straight fitting to thread into the block which would also mount the oil filter and just remove the adapter entirely until you can afford to replace it.

 

Has anyone had success using one of those stop leak products. I was talking to a friend last night and he told me he has used some "powered copper" stuff over the past 20 years and he says it works.

Because I love bubble gum and bandaids, I leaning on that stuff with some jbweld on the exterior.

 

The jbweld would work if you are sure that there is no internal leakage between the oil and water.

 

you are just masking a problem that will more then likely come back to bit you at the most inopportune time.

fix it correctly imho.

 

Take the adapter off, you're going to have to eventually.

Remove the hoses & section in the lower radiator hose & pick up a splice connector at a parts house or get a new one peice lower. Screw on a filter & go.

Fix the cooler when you can correctly.

 

Dont remove the oil cooler, I did this and ended up with no oil pressure. There are check valves in the cooler I was told.

 

Taking the oil cooler off should have no effect on oil pressure (unless the oil gets too hot and thins out). Just take off the cooler and use a MotorCraft FL-1A or equivalent (NOT FRAM!) filter like the 302 and 300I6 use, it's the same diameter, only longer.