Go to Y with notebook and calculator ready. Blue Thunder intake port matched to heavily worked G, 113 or the aluminum heads that are due out soon. Off the top it sounds like an 8k engine .
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1946 1/2 ton with Y-block
1964 F-250, 292 4 speeed
1990 Ranger 4WD
1954 Model 600 tractor
For a block I'd be looking at ECZ-C, EDB-E, and B9AE-F blocks. They'll need to be checked for cylinder wall thickness. A quick check you can do is to pull the freeze plug that's behind the starter and check to see if that last cylinder tilted during casting. That's the one to give you trouble if there's going to be excessive core shift. You'll see the tilt visually by looking at the gap between cylinders. I've heard that you can sometimes get a 3.912" (Dodge 318) bore.
I've heard that you can use a 351 crankshaft. I would think that the Cleveland crank would have slightly lower profiles on the counterweights, so consider that. Obviously, you'd have to find a crank grinder willing to turn that into a y-block crank. Offset grind it to a 3.65" stroke with 2" journals for the long Chevy rods.
John Mummert can source the long Chevy rods.
That's 350 cubic inches. I have to wonder if the heads would support anything bigger.
hi, the old engine builders used to say 3.64 was the limit on stroke because of cam location. bore's, if you find a thick block you can go to 3.935 chevy 307-.o60 over. i've heard of a couple guys who went to 4.00 in. but they don't live long. they don't recommend going over 3.875 if your going to crank any RRRRRRRR's, and then you should sonic check for core shift.
I talked to John Mummert about my 272 block
I,m sure u can make a 310 of it with 3,47 stroke and 3,77 bore.
Some forged pistons with 10cc dome for higher compression, bigger intake valves, 1,54 rockers, 4bl intake, ramhorns and of you go.
It is possible to increase stroke to 3,7 and that makes 330, but check out your rod clearance because of the larger cirkel they make.
Have you ever thought about why the Ford Y's, especially those in trucks, have lasted so long?
Bullet proof block, large rod/main journal overlap, light spring pressures on mild cam, low rpm torque allowed by small intake runners and valves, low rpms, low compression ratios producing minimal strains... How long do you think a big stroker Y will last? Big decrease in journal overlap, high spring pressure, high rpm, high CR, ... Just for consideration.
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1946 1/2 ton with Y-block
1964 F-250, 292 4 speeed
1990 Ranger 4WD
1954 Model 600 tractor
In my opinion a stroker engine is designed for low end torque and max rpm of 4000.
That way it will last a long time i think. But if you look at some dyno tests, they go up to 7000 rpm. That's no good to any engine.
In my opinion a stroker engine is designed for low end torque and max rpm of 4000.
That way it will last a long time i think. But if you look at some dyno tests, they go up to 7000 rpm. That's no good to any engine.
Agreed. I have a 312 crank newly ground for 292 mains, which would be 318. If it ever gets done I would keep the rpm below 5K. Cant help being chronically conservative.
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1946 1/2 ton with Y-block
1964 F-250, 292 4 speeed
1990 Ranger 4WD
1954 Model 600 tractor
I know of a local crankshaft shop that has a fancy lathe, and he does offset grinding, etc., but I haven't tried him out yet to see the quality of his work.
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Best regards,
Paul Menten
Last edited by pcmenten; 01-08-2009 at 11:48 PM.
Reason: Typo
Paul,
It is a semi secret shop in Eugene, OR. The local machinists here use them and are reluctant to release their name. Doesnt even appear on the invoices. I think they have a lot of business from all over, Portland, Salem, maybe even into WA, with a guy making regular trips picking up cranks and delivering same. Not even any charge for shipping. I could most likely find out if anyone is really interested. But they are GOOD, and were one of the rare outfits able to grind down the rear main seal journal while leaving the oil slinger.
The same outfit did some rod work for me on this current engine. The rods were resized, balanced, bushed, and all of them came out .004 shorter than stock, which is an amazing and rare feat when you look at any stock rods, rebuilt or not. Lengths are generally plus or minus .003 or more. I told them the block would be zero decked, and rods should end up as long as possible, so they went the extra mile.
Mike
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1946 1/2 ton with Y-block
1964 F-250, 292 4 speeed
1990 Ranger 4WD
1954 Model 600 tractor
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