Ok I need to find out if there are any special tricks to get the brakes done myself. I purchased the rotors and am now rethinking doing it myself. Any help is greatly appreciated. 97 F350 diesel Dually 2wd

 

peice of cake, it comes apart liek any other set up, all you need is a hammer to beat the wheel adapter off.

 

totally agree with c00n! i have done several setups and there is really nothing to it. just take your time and do it right. i recommend going to ford and buying their pads. they should offer you the old style for our OBS, but they should also offer you pads that come on the superduty's. i bought them and they have done great! nice and quiet, they are a little soft so the rotors arent being ground away.

-cutts-

 

nothing else?? I've done cars and such but there are no bearings or anthng I have to worry about??

 

Rotor removal on a 97 Ford F350 isnt really that diffficult but, it is a little time consuming. I just replaced both rotors on my 97 about a month ago...Unlike an earlier poster noted... you dont beat the wheel adapters off... you could swing a hammer all day long at it and you'd do nothing more than break the hub or the rotor.
I'm assuming that yours is a 4x4? If so, you need to remove the brake caliper. Then, remove the three screws holding the hub lock and pull the lock mechanism,snap rings and hub gear off. Remove the outer bearing lock rings, lock pin washer and outer bearing. Pull the hub and rotor assembly off and place it on two blocks of wood and then drive all the wheel studs out with a heavy hammer being careful to not damage the threads. ( The studs hold the rotor to the hub from the backside ) See.... you could beat on the rotor or hub all day.. unless you knock the studs out first... you're wasting your time.

Once the studs are out, you'll notice that the studs have raised side edges that hold the rotor tight to the hub... once out, you can tap the rotor off the backside of the hub fairly easily... Installation is reverse of removal... good time to pack the bearings in fresh grease. Figure on a total time of about 2 hours per side for a novice DIY'r.

 

auto hub assy.pdf

All this comes off to get at the bearings.*I hope it helps

 

I just noticed his original posting... 97 F350 2wd.... guess it was pointless to explain to him about pulling the 4x4 hub locks huh? BTW Neal...that was a good diagram of an auto locking hub... but... I dont think they ever used auto lock hubs on F350 4x4's. The F350 uses a straight axle Dana 60 whereas the F250 used the split front Dana 50 axle. I know auto hubs are available on them....around here, I leave my hubs locked in most all the time unless I'm on the pavement.... which starts 30 miles away from the house.

 

thanks for everything guys

 

So, did you get your rotors changed out?

 

Scott you are right. I was foggy eyed when I read the 350 part. Sorry dude.

 

The pads must be backed off to get the torque pecs right.

Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to 17-25 lb-ft while rotating the disc brake rotor in the opposite direction.

Back the nut off approximately one-half turn.

Tighten the nut to 18-20 lb-in. End play should be 0.000-0.005 inch. Torque required to rotate the hub should be 10-25 lb-in.