My truck has 60,000 miles on it and I noticed the pitman arm rubber bushing has lost its grease (it's leaked on the castle nut). This has caused some play in the joint and a clunking sound when going over bumps. The idler arm seems fine.

Do I need to have the whole pitman arm replaced or can a new ball joint be installed?

 

Anyone????

 

Have you done a forum search on the pitman arm? I am sure that this has been discussed before, Good luck!

 

XL3Z3590AA .. Pitman Arm / Fits: 1999/2002 F150 2WD & 4WD (mebbe later than 2002, as my Ford truck parts catalog only goes that far).

MSRP: $59.50 / FTEpartsguy.com price: $42.84.

The pic in the parts catalog shows the ball joint made as part of the Pitman arm, so...the joint is not available separately.

 

Thanks for the replies,

I looked at a picture of the pitman arm as well and it shows the ball joint connected to the pitman arm. The Moog pitman arm is only $66 at Checker Auto Parts so I will purchase one today.



I heard it's rather difficult to remove the old one so I'll probably take it in to get it fixed.

How much should I expect a mechanic to charge me to replace the pitman arm?

 

The genuine Ford Pitman Arm is $23.16 cheaper when buying it from an FTE sponsor: FTEpartsguy.com...who is Ed Olson @ Parr Ford in Bremerton WA.

But...since it has to come from WA, I don't know how much the shipping charge to HI will be.

 

Air shipping to Hawaii is expensive.

I have bought parts from an FTE sponser before but I am wondering why my genuine Ford Pitman arm needs to be replaced after 60,000 miles.

I have heard that Moog makes high quality replacement parts and the ball joint on their pitman arm has a grease fitting.

 

60,000 miles, but consider that the truck is nearly 10 years old.

If you didn't buy it new, you prolly don't know how it was treated beforehand.

What are the conditions of the roads you travel on?

The usual pot holes and rough asphalt we see here everyday?

 

I bought the truck new and it is used primarily to tow my boat. It has not been driven hard. Mostly highway but occasionally driven in the sand.

There is some rough asphalt and pot holes on the roads but my everyday car seems to handle it fine. Shouldn't a 4X4 offroad F150 handle it without breaking a pitman arm?

 

It didn't break, the rubber boot, which is actually neoprene, cuz rubber wouldn't last a NY minute, failed.

What caused the boot to fail? Did a piece of road debris hit it?

Or did it rot due to environmental conditions?

That's a major factor here, smog just eats up weatherstrips and other soft trim items.

Heat is another factor, humid sub tropical conditions play hell with these parts.

 

I know the actual arm didn't break but the whole thing needs to be replaced so for what it's worth, the pitman arm failed. Debris didn't appear to hit the rubber boot, it just failed.

Will a Moog pitman arm (and boot) last longer? Who knows...but the fact that it comes with a grease fitting while the genuine Ford part doesn't leads me to believe it will last longer.

Any comments about which part will last longer??

 

Just "the fact that it comes with a grease fitting" is no guarantee "it will last longer". Somehow grease needs to be renewed.

Some folks claim success using grease needles on OEM Lubed For Life joints, hoping they "will last longer". Pretty sure MOOG claims to "last longer" than OEM & some parts are said to be more robust than the OEM they replace.

When a rubber boot fails the problem is not so much b/c its "lost its grease (it's leaked on the castle nut)" as it is the dirt & water getting inside, greatly accelerating wearing the joint out.

 

The Pittman arm is relatively difficult, it took me and my brother two days to remove it. I went into a place to get my truck aligned and they said they had to be replaced and they estimated the pittman arm and idler arm replaced and installed with moog parts for around 300 dollars, the pittman arm is a pain even with a puller but i saved the money and did it myself. if you take it to a place look for about 100 dollars for the part because they'll mark it up and probably another 100 for labor. If you're a do-it yourselfer I could help you out on that matter. I have all MOOG front end parts, and when you compare them to the OEM parts you can see that they're a bit beefier looking which I like personally. Good luck, any questions just keep replying.

 

Thanks papajoe, I'm a DIY kinda guy but my spare time is pretty much spoken for with family in town for the Holidays. I figured MOOG is the way to go, I'll buy the part and have my mechanic install it.

 

Boy, oh boy....

Christmas in Hawaii......

That's what I want!

Santa?
Are you listening?
Santa?