I've got a D60 in the rear of my 4x4. I think it has a locker in it. I may be able to get a D70 cheap, traction style unknown. Whats the pros/cons of the 2?
I've heard that gear sets are harder to find for 70's as well as carriers/lockers. Ground clearance isn't a huge issue.
I've also heard that a 14 bolt cheby rear is a good axle.

 

ive heard the 14 bolt is good and cheap.

 

The dana 70 is lighter than the 14 bolt on total weight. but a simple tuff axle. On the selection of ring-pinion carries you got power lok and trac lok. detroit locker and air lockers and spool. I believe thats all thats out their. I run a power lok limited slip but want to do a air locker soon. the power locker is good and easy to rebuild with new clutches compared to track lok. On the 14 bolt the one with detroit locker is best I think On some 14 bolt they have a gov lok system and was told the bearings are not standard compared to detroit locker system and selection for aftermarket diffs is slim. I picked up two of these axles yrs ago and sitting out back and bought them cheap for a mudhole truck down the road. both gov locks have something wrong with them and figure I'd weld up for mudholeing some day. something to check into on 14bolt.

 

A D60 rear does not have very large shafts and only 30 splines. I broke a shaft on my 60 and after asking in the offroad forum I was advised a D70 is much better but to be sure I found a D70 with 1.5 inch shafts and 35 splines. Some D70 rears are not much stronger than the D60 you already have. I ended up getting a corp 14. It was way easier to find and I only had to pay $175 bucks for a complete rear end. I was advised to try to find one that was off a single wheel truck and not a newer one that had a lot of ribs on the pumpkin.

 

I sold the D70 out of the dodge I had, and I am thinking about selling the 60 in the crew to be replaced with a corp 14. Id think the corp 14 was lighter than the 70 after looking at the 2, but maybe not. Either way disk brakes is a good way to put either on a quick diet

I've got a buddy who breaks both d60 and d70 axle shafts but hasn't broken a 14 shaft. He's kind of convinced me to run the 14b...

 

Hey buddy, thats me I think. Yes, I have busted two D70 35 spline 1.5" shafts, and have yet to break a stock 1.5" 30 spline 14 bolt shaft. All equiped with detroits, and all running the same gearing and tire combos.
The added strength of the 3rd bearing on the pinion, and larger diameter pinion combined with an offset pinion gives the 14B a much better advantage over anything dana.
The offset pinion and removable pinion support, will have less driveshaft angle for lifted trucks. This also provides slightly better driveshaft clearance. Though only slight, every bit helps.
The added pinion support prevents ring and pinion clearance issues while the ring gear is under severe load. Dana axles thend to be rather weak in this area.
Dana 60's and 70's have a rather small amount of teeth contact when gear ratios get rather low (numerically higher). The 14B maintains more contact thus making it stronger, and helps to keep the two from breaking. This is a very weak point to the dana axle.
The head diameter of the dana axle is also rather small when compared to the 14B also giving the 14B a very large advantage.
Many 14B's can be found with factory 4.56 ratios and Detroit lockers. The giant two piece carrier is strong as can be, and almost bomb proof.
The 14B is easilly shaved and can be placed on a diet to be made lighter than a stock
60.
Some 14B brakes are larger than the largest dana offered in the 60 or 70, so stopping power is better for the 14B.
Disc brakes are less expensive for the 14B, and this will be the largest weight savings upgrade.
14B is incredibly easy to shave. This can provide better clearance than a shaved D60.
Many veriety 14B's are bolt in with zero spring perch modifications, and only shock mount changes.

14B already has 9/16" lug nuts, and runs a beefy 1350 u-joint. While this uses a strap type u-joint retainer, the yoke can be modified and upgraded to a u-bolt style.
1410 and 1480 yokes are available for the 14B as well.

14B uses the same size spindle nut socket as the Dana 60 axle, so there is no need to purchase a new tool just because the axle has been changed.

Dana 60 can be modified to run a D70 shaft, but the spindle has to be bored to accomodate the larger axle shaft. Some say it compromises the strength of the spindle, but I have yet to see a failure as a result of this.

The Dana axle has its place, and is a good axle, but for all out strength in a stock or modified axle, the 14B can be found in a wider veriety of vehicles, and can be found dirt cheap. All of this and is stronger makes the 14B a better axle.

Yeah, thats about what I can remember out of the old noodle.

 

Ok, you are talking about a cheby 14 bolt out of a 3/4 or 1 ton, right? What is involved in converting dually to SRW, in case I find a good deal on a dually. I've heard the bud wheels are the only difference on a rear axle,... true?
Also, how do I identify a 14 bolt? Is it the only chevy axle with 14 bolts?
And, are there any years/models to stay away from?

Thanks for all the info, guys.

 

ok so 75f350 I know u told me once before how you think the 14 bolt is a better axle but everywhere I reasearched constantly rates the 70 as a stronger axle and has a significant higher torgue rating. So in my own reasearch I recently went out and bought both just to compare these in person. I had a hard time finding the right 70 but when I did within 20 minutes I had a guy call me about a 14 bolt as well. 14 bolt was cheap $50 with. 456's and open 70 was $200 373's and another one wheel pealer! After comparing inner axles 14 bolts have 1.5 shafts into carrier but taper to about 1 3/8,7/16 ish compared to my 35 spline 70 a true 1.5 all the way through. So I'm building the 70 it's more expensive for gears and lockers and harder to setup but I see why they put these under all dodge deisels. 14 bolts are cheap for lockers and are a good design for gear setup and pinion bearing but I'm gonna stick with my 79 ford 2wd f350 axle over a chevy. I think I have a cheap brand new arb locker for my 70 as well now and I've already put on rear discs. My 60 rear I have now with a power locker and 44 swampers is even holding up fine for me now with new snow on the roads recently and driving it like I stole it. Anyways blah blah just my 2 cents...

 

you DON'T want a 14B with the 9.5 ring gear(semi-float) out want the 10.5 it has "hubs" that protude from the wheel mounting flange like your D60 and a 6 bolt pinion bearing retainer on the yoke .........try to find one out of a G20(van 44" drum to drum) or a 2WD truck a little wider the spring perches are the same either way

not 100% sure but I believe that 1 ton duellys had the D70
but a 1ton straight side had the 14B 10.5

diff cover for a 9.5
https://www.ocdieselstore.com/catalo...g%20GM1495.jpg

diff cover for a 10.5
http://www.coloradok5.com/reviewpics/mag14.jpg

 

6 bolt on the pinion bearing
http://www.akfabshop.com/alaskaoffro...inioncover.JPG

 

On the 14 bolt with gov lok is their is a bearing difference. Both of mine have issues. They came out of a 3+3 trucks. 14 bolt is a good rear axle for durability and hrspwr and mud raced many over the yrs in big hrspwr application.

 

I will have to return to my books to answer this question, but I do not believe there is any difference in bearings.
The Gov lok is deffinately something to stay away from though. These are not known to be reliable or strong.

As far as overall strength differences in the shafts. I do not have any data to support my findings, but I do have experience. I have run both axles in my rides, and in the same trucks. Currently, I am breaking 35 spline 1.5" D70 shafts with frequency. The 14B's shafts are holding strong.
I can understand that on paper the D70 should be better, and my findings are not a one time fluke. This has happened on more than one occurance.
Bench racing is one thing, and practical applications are another:

 

Well i see your boggers claimed another axle. If you could get back with me on the gov lok stuff I would appreciate it. I don't have any books on 14 bolts.

 

I fast forwarded in part of this thread, BUT I will stick my nose in and say I would recommend that you ditch the gov-bomb and install an open diff with either a detroit, or weld the spider gears. Either setup is a ton more reliable, and is less likely to leave you stranded.

 

How can I tell if its a gov-lock I'm looking at when I'm hunting for a 14b in the yards? Is there a tag code to look for? It sounds like they would be trouble in a pulling truck.
Thanks.