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Well, I think I'm going to order the cheap set and get whatever else I need locally once the bearings get here. The set I have now are only about two years old and was told they were a "good product" when I got them. I replaced all the ball joints and both hubs two years ago with my Christmas bonus. Looks like I'm doing the same thing again this year. It's always somethin'......
When did 4 wheel ABS come standard? I know(at least think) on mine I only have real wheel ABS. That might knock a few more off if they specify between 4 wheel ABS and 2 wheel ABS
I'm not sure if I have 4 wheel ABS or not, but am going to check before ordering. I'm sure it's easy to find. I either have a wire harness to my front wheels, or I don't
My quick two cents. I replaced mine yesterday and the lowest price i could fnd locally was 212 at Oreilly auto. That came with an ABS sesor already installed. If you have time to wait for shipping and wanna save a few bucks here are the absolute cheapest i could find. Less than 130 shipped. I am positive that they will not be stamped made in the USA neither was mine for 212 at the local parts store and I am sure they come from the same line over in china. Very easy install took 1.5 hours per side and I did rotors and pads at the same time just because.
They will work with either Hub option. SRW only with 4 wheel ABS. These have a coarse thread on the wheel studs which is what my 2000 F-350 SRW had. I am not sure what trucks came with the fine threaded studs maybe a DRW.
I just replaced mine. Paid like right at 300 for the Wheel bearing assembly and the 2 gaskets.... 4 studs and 4 nuts. Powerstrokeshop.com
Its a Timken bearing....says MADE IN THE USA! right on the part!!!
I also bought the Timken from Autozone at $350 + tax and no shipping. But I needed it that day. I am a bit gunshy about using bearings without country of origion being know. There is a lot of technology that goes into making quality steel.
If I don't have the autolock hubs, are there any o-rings, seals, gaskets, or anything else that I may need? I'm assuming I will need new studs and nuts, right?
If I don't have the autolock hubs, are there any o-rings, seals, gaskets, or anything else that I may need? I'm assuming I will need new studs and nuts, right?
I would replace the dust seal at the end of the differential tube. I would also use the yellow oring, (the bearing should have this) just to keep the hub cleaner inside and keep water out of the 4wd hub assembly. Even with mechanical hubs!
Be prepared to remove the studs in the old bearings. They are a to remove. Double nut the stud and hold the old bearing in a vice and you can get them out. Don't forget the penetrating oil. I used a wire brush on my drill press to clean out the threads before installation. When you install the studs in the new bearing be sure to bottom out the stud to tighten it.
When did 4 wheel ABS come standard? I know(at least think) on mine I only have real wheel ABS. That might knock a few more off if they specify between 4 wheel ABS and 2 wheel ABS
In 2001 4WABS became standard on Lariat trim levels and above, and standard on all models in 2002
Originally Posted by FXSTSB
I am not sure what trucks came with the fine threaded studs maybe a DRW.
I believe the thread pitch on the wheel studs changed when Ford went to the taller wheels in 04.
Originally Posted by Capt.Schenk
If I don't have the autolock hubs, are there any o-rings, seals, gaskets, or anything else that I may need? I'm assuming I will need new studs and nuts, right?
I've reused the studs twice now. They are plenty big, and no thread locker is used. The o-ring that seals the bearing assembly to the steering knuckle should come with the new hubs.
Originally Posted by vettdvr
I would replace the dust seal at the end of the differential tube.
That would make for a long day. What people commonly refer to as the dust seal is actually the outside lip of the axle seal that has broken off. You have to pull the axles out to replace them, which means you would also have to replace the axle seals in the steering knuckle. That's going to add about $130 in parts and at least an extra hour to the job. Plus you'll have to make a seal driver to seat the new outers in the knuckle.
Nope, it is a SRW 4x4, rear ABS only. If had known then what I know now, I wouldn't have bought the truck, would have kept looking for a 99.5 or later.