I have a clutch rattle on my 2000 F250 A/C compressor. I took the belt off because I thought it might be an idler pulley, but I found a plate in the clutch that is completely loose. the clutch still works, but make a very loud noise to engage and disengage in addition to the rattle. Is there a way to remove/replace the clutch? If so, how? Also, the A/C has always been poor at cooling (which appears to be typical because my brother has the same problem. Any way to boost the cooling?

 

Yes, you can replace just the clutch.

Not sure if it's the same on the newer Fords, but you used to remove the center bolt, and put a bolt in that's BIGGER than the original - there are threads in the face of the clutch that are not normally used and when you tighten the bigger bolt, it pops the face of the clutch off buy pushing against the compressor shaft.

The electromagnet under the clutch is then removable with a three bolts/screws or so.

 

My service manual says to use a 8x1.25mm bolt to remove the clutch, but check it just to be sure.

Also, there is a snap ring holding the pully onto the compressor, and it says to remove the "field coil" (electromagnet) you need a puller.

 

Oh, but in your case, if the clutch is working and just noisy, you can just replace the pulley and/or the face plate to fix it without removing the field coil.

 

It might also just need reshimming to re-set the gap correctly. Worth checking before tearing apart. You'd still need to take of the face plate, but that is pretty easy. Prying (gently!) from a couple points around the edge simulatenously usually will pop it loose, or use Krewats technique if you can. Don't lose the shims (thin washers)!

 

Replace that clutch plate ASAP!

I waited too long last winter and ended up on a AAA flatbed when the pulley disintegrated and seized the serpentine belt system along with the motor.

One bolt, pry off the plate, save the shims. Check the pulley's bearings. If okay, replace the plate only - about $40 for a Motorcraft part from RockAuto. Replace the pulley if the bearings are questionable.

Steve

 

I tried to replace my clutch assembly today but when I went to remove the center bolt the whole assembly spun. Any idea on how to keep the whole thing from spinning when trying to remove the rusted bolt?

 

I think there is a tool for holding the face of the clutch. But a big pair of channel-locks would work, wouldn't it?

 

Thanks for the reply. I'll give it a try. Nothing is easy!! Well, unless I just have it towed to Ford.

 

You can use the holding tool, but, there is a simple way.

Turn the HVAC to one of the AC modes, turn ignition switch to RUN without starting. The clutch should engage and allow you to loose the bolt (8 or 10 mm, IIRC) as long as the clutch doesn't slip (the serpentine belt should keep the pulley from easily moving). When the bolt is loosened, turn the ignition switch off and complete the R & R of the hub.

The pulley is harder and will require a large snap-ring pliers with a 90 degree tip.

 

Thanks! I'll give it a try this weekend.

 

To add to what projectSHO89 said, if your clutch has to much of an air gap and won't engage you can tap on the face of it with the handle of a screwdriver and that will allow it to engage and hold it tight to remove the bolt. I just did this on my 02.

 

Good additional tip, 89LX306!

If the clutch will not energize and the holding tool is not available, there is a make-do alternative I have used. I selected a larger box-end wrench that my 8 mm socket will fit inside of. Place the wrench over the socket, then place the socket on the bolt head. Position the arm of the box end wrench against one of the three "nubs" on the clutch plate and the wrench handle will keep the plate and compressor shaft from turning when the socket is turned to loosen the bolt.

 

Anybody know the part number for the plate and the pulley?