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  #61  
Old 02-22-2009, 04:19 PM
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The wires are in the same order as the injectors. Front pin is glow plug for #2, 2nd pin is gp #4, 3rd pin is injector #2, 4th pin is injector #4, 5th is the common wire, 6th pin is injector #6, 7th pin is injector #8, 8th pin is GP #6, and 9th pin is GP #8.

The injectors on the drivers side are front 2 - 4 - 6 - 8 back
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  #62  
Old 02-22-2009, 04:59 PM
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Thnks much looks like ill be under the hood for a couple of hrs or days who knows
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  #63  
Old 02-22-2009, 05:15 PM
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Sorry to hear that. You know for $20 a year, you can become a supporter of this site. It's not required, but it helps keep things going. And think of the money you can save by learning how to do these things yourself.
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  #64  
Old 02-23-2009, 05:28 PM
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I have the connector problem (as diagnosed by FORD for a mere $180). Before I okayed them to make the repair I did a little research, found this site, and then told them I'd be towing the truck home for repairs!

Thanks everyone for all the information as it's great!!! I WILL be joining as a "supporter"!!!

So I figure I may as well do both sides since the truck is out of service anyways... yeah?

Do I need to purchase new VC gaskets? I read on one of the posts that they are usually reusable... I've also heard that they work quite right if re-used... thoughts?

I'll be doing the repairs in the next few days and will let you know how it all works out!

Thanks again!
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  #65  
Old 02-23-2009, 06:08 PM
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Welcome to FTE wpkeeper. The gaskets are re-useable. They are a rubber gasket, so no issues there. The only reason to replace the gasket is if the pins in the pass thru connector have problems, or you just want to switch to the updated harness. I've never had to replace a gasket on any of the trucks I've pulled valve covers on.

Take the time to torque down the rocker and injector bolts. It will sound like a whole new engine by the time you get done.

Did Ford happen to give you an estimate for what it would cost for them to fix it? I'm just curious.
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  #66  
Old 02-24-2009, 12:58 PM
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Towed truck home this morning... FORD charged $180 to run the codes and "diagnostics" .... They wanted $800 for the repairs. That was the estimate for both sides. For one side only it was estimated at $550.

I'll be pulling the valve covers tomorrow. I'm hoping to have it all done and put back together in one day.

I did see the post about tightening done everything and will do! Got the torque wrench all ready and set to go!!!!

Thanks for all the help thus far and I'll post an update tomorrow night. Hopefully it'll be good as new!!!

Just an FYI... it's throwing the following codes: P1262, P1264, P1266.

Aside from checking the Ohms, is there any indication via the codes as to which VC to pull?
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  #67  
Old 02-24-2009, 01:03 PM
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Yep, those codes would be for cylinders 2, 4 & 6, which are the front 3 on the driver side.

Might as well pull both of them while you have the day set aside. It may look like a big task, but just remove one bolt at a time and you'll be in there before you know it. I don't think it will take you all day to do both of them, but go ahead and start with the drivers side.
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  #68  
Old 02-25-2009, 06:11 PM
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Just finished... runs like a CHAMP!!!!!! THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH!!! I'm a true believer for sure now!!! From start to finish it took a little over an hour.

I also tried out my buddies Edge Products little computer programmer.... WOW... HUGE increase in power!

Thoughts on it????
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  #69  
Old 02-25-2009, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpkeeper View Post
I also tried out my buddies Edge Products little computer programmer.... WOW... HUGE increase in power!

Thoughts on it????
You mean itty bitty increase in power? Huge increase in power is when you get a custom chip like one from our sponsor DP-Tuner that costs about the same price as the edge.

Did you do both sides, or just the passenger side? Find any loose bolts when you tightened things back down? If you had found FTE a few days earlier, we could have saved you the $180 fee and you could have found this yourself with a $15 multi-meter. Trust us when we say there are better products than the edge. We won't waste your money.
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  #70  
Old 03-04-2009, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F350-6 View Post
You mean itty bitty increase in power? Huge increase in power is when you get a custom chip like one from our sponsor DP-Tuner that costs about the same price as the edge.

Did you do both sides, or just the passenger side? Find any loose bolts when you tightened things back down? If you had found FTE a few days earlier, we could have saved you the $180 fee and you could have found this yourself with a $15 multi-meter. Trust us when we say there are better products than the edge. We won't waste your money.

If I could add a little to this... I purchased an Edge Evolution programmer before I knew any better and I thought it was great... until I rode in a fellow FTE'rs truck that had a DP-Tuner. DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON THE EDGE!!! If you're gonna spend it, you might as well buy something worth a crap. If I could turn back time, I would've done things WAY differently. just my two cents. Sorry, I'm
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  #71  
Old 03-19-2009, 07:17 PM
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Unhappy Completed repair in December - problem back?

Good evening guys, I want to compliment you as others have. I researched the site, found this post, watched the video, and used the quarter to repair both sides, and it ran better than ever, as most folks have indicated.

However, after finding out I need to replace the ball joints, after hanging the new tires on the thing I had been saving up for months, I started having the same problems, but it is acting a little different this time, so maybe it is not related to the UVCH?

It appeared first when I was slowing down for a stop sign. I noticed it seemed to be running quieter than normal. It didn't die, but I looked down and noticed the Service Engine Light on.

I took it back to the house and hooked up my code reader. It pulled two codes p5041 (air intake heater - I expected this since I recently replaced it with the plug) and p1316. I reset them and they came, and the truck is consistently running bad. I haven't started it in a few days trying to think of what to do.

I used the quarter to repair both sides. I think I only had an issue with the passenger side. And as mentioned, it ran fantastic for 3 months after I repaired it.

What would you suggest I check now? I am thinking back to the ohm meter first.

I haven't seen any one mention they repaired the problem and it returned. I will admit that I am perfectly capable of hosing anything up, and could have jacked the repair up.

Thanks for the help.

Caven
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  #72  
Old 03-19-2009, 08:50 PM
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I've had my quarters in for about 45,000 miles with no issues. I agree with starting with the ohm test. Be sure to note each of the readings on the injectors, even if they appear to be withing spec. It's possible you've got an injector solenoid going south.

You know the site works better if everyone chimes in now and then. I hope you're next post comes a little quicker than your first.
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  #73  
Old 03-20-2009, 01:57 AM
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kinda, did anyone have major black exhaust smoke coming out? i had a very similar experience, and major black would come out when it "missed" / "wasnt running on all 8" almost like it was chipped to be exact, then it died threw a code, after changing my fuel filter all was good, then it blew the o rings on the back of my hpop? took all apart, cleaned, reconnected everything, works better then before, just my .02
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  #74  
Old 03-20-2009, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavenhedges View Post
Good evening guys, I want to compliment you as others have. I researched the site, found this post, watched the video, and used the quarter to repair both sides, and it ran better than ever, as most folks have indicated.

However, after finding out I need to replace the ball joints, after hanging the new tires on the thing I had been saving up for months, I started having the same problems, but it is acting a little different this time, so maybe it is not related to the UVCH?

It appeared first when I was slowing down for a stop sign. I noticed it seemed to be running quieter than normal. It didn't die, but I looked down and noticed the Service Engine Light on.

I took it back to the house and hooked up my code reader. It pulled two codes p5041 (air intake heater - I expected this since I recently replaced it with the plug) and p1316. I reset them and they came, and the truck is consistently running bad. I haven't started it in a few days trying to think of what to do.

I used the quarter to repair both sides. I think I only had an issue with the passenger side. And as mentioned, it ran fantastic for 3 months after I repaired it.

What would you suggest I check now? I am thinking back to the ohm meter first.

I haven't seen any one mention they repaired the problem and it returned. I will admit that I am perfectly capable of hosing anything up, and could have jacked the repair up.

Thanks for the help.

Caven
Welcome to FTE.
With a p1316, the first thing that I would suspect is a loose connection for one of the injectors.
When it happened to me it was because I knocked one of the plugs loose on the connector for the injector itself as I was reinstalling the valve cover.
I knew right away that I had screwed something up because it ran perfect before I pulled the VCs off.
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  #75  
Old 03-20-2009, 11:24 AM
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When the 7.3 was still fairly young, I had a company truck, a '95 F250, and had just bought my '97 F250 PS 4x4 (in 1998, it was a new "leftover"). The '95 started acting up intermittantly, and from working with conventional diesels for many years, was a familiar sound, was running very steadily on 4 cylinders- but rockin' and rollin'. On the dozers & such, changing filters or startup after a runout, lots of times a hand primer pump, or on the old dozers & such, a pony motor, no need to bleed all the cylinders, just get a couple to squirt, tighten 'em down, it'll start up and the rest will bleed themselves- so the sound was pretty familiar. The harness problem is pretty well known now, but back then... So the company mechanic, who was "tractor oriented" and also had an acute case of "mechanic's attitude", took one look and sent it to the dealer. Shop kid drives it up there (1/2 hr drive), shakes and rattle on 4 the whole way, parks it in the back lot. Of course when they pull it in, it's running perfectly So they change the filter, send it back, nothing wrong except bad maintenance is the verdict- which has the predictable effect on the "mechanic's attitude" So I get about 2 miles the next day and I'm driving a rabid Pinto again- so I start looking at it, and see the wiring harness going into the valve cover- remember, this is '98, and that's a bit "different"- so when I get home, do a little checking and find out about electrically controlled, hydraulically actuated injectors, go out and fire it up, whack the valve cover with a rubber hammer, Pinto turns into a Singer, smooth as silk. Back to the company mechanic, he's glaring at me as I walk towards him I ask him, did you tell them the symptoms, running evenly on 4, blah blah, "I told 'em it's running rough, they're the experts, let them figure it out" he barks. I deliver it myself this time (I've known the parts manager since I could still buy 427 parts new), they pull the cover- the plug wasn't loose, the harness had shorted and burned up inside the cover- at least 2/3 of it was a crispy critter, caked with burned oil
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Old 03-20-2009, 11:24 AM
 
 
 
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