That's right, Texan all my life. I live 15 miles west of San Antonio in a town called Castroville. I know where Hillsboro is, one of my college roommates was from there, and my other one was from Aquilla, which is near there too I believe.
I'm gonna go ohm out that plug again right now and try the quarter. Unfortunately, I won't get to crank her up until I get back Sunday. I'll keep you posted.
Just ohmed out my connector again. All injectors are reading around 3.3 or 3.4 ohms which i belive is normal according to your first post. All glow plugs are reading 0.5 ohms or less, so does that mean the glow plugs are still good?
How did it turn out? I'm curently having the same problem with mine. I have been researching it here and found your thread. Is the problem solved with yours?..........Ron.
The driver's side connector was definitely loose. I haven't done the passenger side yet because I'm out of town this weekend. I will have to pull that valve cover Sunday when I get back. So I haven't had the chance to crank the truck yet.
As far as your truck is concerned, I would say test the plug using the instructions Chris provided, it's not that hard. If you get some unusual results like I did, then you can go ahead and pull your valve cover.
well, I'm new here as you can see, but I'm glad I was persistant in searching this forum and found this thread. I have a 99 F250 PSD and last night the wife was driving home when it started loosing power and when idling, was idling very rough. I got home and started her up and it was acting like it was only running on a couple cylinders. I opened the throttle and rpms would go up but very sluggish and still missing. After a couple times of revving up, it died and won't start back up. I read about the Cam position sensor but the tach is still reading RPMS while cranking. I was going to replace the fuel filter tonight, but it looks like I will be doing some OHMS testing to.
I'll keep you posted, and if there are any other ideas out there for me, it would be greatly apreciated
Jason
I'm gonna follow all of those instructions. I think I have the identical problem. Post your results when you're done. I would appreciate any other info or further ideas you guys come up with. Mine is a weekend vehicle and I might not be able to touch it till after the holidays.
I'm gonna follow all of those instructions. I think I have the identical problem. Post your results when you're done. I would appreciate any other info or further ideas you guys come up with. Mine is a weekend vehicle and I might not be able to touch it till after the holidays.
well, I'm new here as you can see, but I'm glad I was persistant in searching this forum and found this thread. I have a 99 F250 PSD and last night the wife was driving home when it started loosing power and when idling, was idling very rough. I got home and started her up and it was acting like it was only running on a couple cylinders. I opened the throttle and rpms would go up but very sluggish and still missing. After a couple times of revving up, it died and won't start back up. I read about the Cam position sensor but the tach is still reading RPMS while cranking. I was going to replace the fuel filter tonight, but it looks like I will be doing some OHMS testing to.
I'll keep you posted, and if there are any other ideas out there for me, it would be greatly apreciated
Jason
Negative on the service engine light. I have an edge evolution tuner, and its not giving me any codes either. I did try ether (Iknow not supposed to) and it will fire up on that but not stay running, so it deffinately seams to be a fuel problem, but haven't had a chance yet to check fuel pressure or any other checks for that matter.
Jason
__________________ Jeff
01' CC 4X4 6" Spring Superlift, 37's Proud Member Of The Brotherhood
WW,RDP AIH delete,RDP HRX, DPTuner, ISSPRO EV2's, TCT Tranny, HH mods, DFA RR and CCK, CCV, Tymar w Pete's Cover, DB 200A, 6.0 Intercooler, AD in #8, 5" Cannon, RedHead SG, RDP 650M Dash #1
Just ohmed out my connector again. All injectors are reading around 3.3 or 3.4 ohms which i belive is normal according to your first post. All glow plugs are reading 0.5 ohms or less, so does that mean the glow plugs are still good?
As long as they're reading at or above 0.1 ohms you should be fine. Unless you've had trouble starting in what we call cold, or have been having lots of white smoke after start up, I'd leave the glow plugs alone. I've never replaced mine.
Looks like the connector was just starting to work it's way loose on that side since you plugging it back in got the readings closer together. Now just get the other side off and see what that looks like.
Ya, the SES is on, but I dont have a code puller.......Ron.
Ron... If you have a digital ohm meter, just pull the 9 pin connectors at the top of valve covers before pull the covers and check as show in the previous posts above.. It will tell which side is affected ... (but pull both if you have the time).. Let us know what you find..
How did it turn out? I'm curently having the same problem with mine. I have been researching it here and found your thread. Is the problem solved with yours?..........Ron.
Welcome to FTE. Sounds like you've got the same problem. Try testing it with the ohm meter and let us know what your readings are.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jason99f250
Negative on the service engine light. I have an edge evolution tuner, and its not giving me any codes either. I did try ether (Iknow not supposed to) and it will fire up on that but not stay running, so it deffinately seams to be a fuel problem, but haven't had a chance yet to check fuel pressure or any other checks for that matter.
Jason
Let us know what the filter looks like, or any fuel pressure results you find.
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Jeff 
reps sent.
