I have a 01 F250 7.3L, 4x4 w/ 89K miles. It has ran flawlessly and has been well maintained. I have recently replaced the CPS (w/ ford OEM) and the fuel bowl O-rings, and removed and serviced the hubs.
I started the truck today with the outside temp at 20 degrees here in Colorado. I didn't have more than a couple minutes to let the truck warm up before I started drive. (Although, I drove it slow and under 1500 rpm to let it warm up though) About 1/2 mile from my house the truck immediately went from running fine as usual to throwing a check engine light and running rough at low idle. Still had plently of power to make it home, just ran rough.
Codes indicated: P0603 - Keep alive power (I have an edge tuner installed and also have recently had the batteries go dead, so this might have been the cause of this) P0340-CMP Circuit fault/Open/grounded circuit, sensor fault, short to power. (CMP has been replaced within the last 6 months w/ ford OEM) P1316- Injector circuit/IDM - Concerned about this one.
I am most concerned about codes P0340 & P1316. I used the search function on the site and read some articles about the valve cover harness going bad. Can anyone who has experienced the same problems or CEL codes offer their advice?
Welcome to FTE. You've stumbled across the right place. First, you're right. Ignore the P0603 code. That's from the edge (we can discuss better options on that later)
Next, the P0340 code means you need to go ahead and change the 6 month old CPS sensor again. In case you've never done it before, here's the instructions Welcome to guzzle's CPS R&R Web Page
Now for the P1316 code. You're search did you well. The most common culprit looks like this
That's the connector for the wires under the valve cover (UVCH) you've been reading about. That plug should be tight, not loose on one side. Since you will have to remove the valve covers to see this plug, the easiest thing to do is locate the other side of this plug, which is on the inboard side of your valve covers right where the gasket is.
Grab a multi-meter and unplug the connector that is outside the valve cover. You will see 9 pins located inside this plug. The pins are arranged as follows
G = Glow Plug
I = Injector +
C = Injector -
Ohm between the G and block Ground should be 0.6 - 2.0 ohms.
Ohm between the I and C should be 3 - 5 ohms.
A test lead with a clip hooked to the center pin makes it easier to ohm the injector pins. If you find one side where the readings don't match the above numbers, then that's the valve cover you will need to pull to check for a loose plug or other wiring issue.
Retainer clips are now available from Ford or International if you want to try and keep this from happening again. You can even make you're own shim and stick in there to keep the plug nice and tight.
Good luck with this, and don't be shy about asking any more questions.
Appreciate all the great feedback. To answer some of the questions...
-Yes, I installed the last new cps as a preventative measure, not as a fix. I kpet the old one (still working) in the truck as a backup.
-I have installed a UVCH before on a 94 7.3L so I am somewhat famaliar with the set-up. I have a test meter, so I'll be sure to perform the Ohms check and report back.
-In regards to the Edge... Yes I know. I bought it when I first got the truck. I like the digital guages, but am not happy with the generic tunes. Will be making the shift with DP Tuner shortly. I have already have the Screen go blank and the Engine ECM wiped out once because of the Edge.
Note: I have performed almost all of the preventative mx tips mentioned on guzzle's site. I don't like being one of those people who is stranded.
Thanks again for all the tips! Will start troubleshooting when I get back from work tonight.
OK. Since you know you're way around a little, I'd suggest you check the torque on your rocker arm pedestal bolts and the injector hold down bolts when you pull the valve covers. They've been known to loosen up a bit, and the engine sounds much better with the little tightening they do need.
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