just a note --- The poor excuses are NOT from this site, its from the dealer and local mechanics. I dont want to offend anybody here.

 

Interesting you should mention the Stabilizer as a potentiality contributor to the problem

I have an 04 Excursion with less than 40,000 miles on it and I have had a wandering problem from the day I bought it, 29,000 miles.

Just yesterday I got an e mail from a friend with a class a motor home on a Ford 350 classic. He mentioned his wandering problem was great reduced when his mechanic REMOVED the stabilizer. Now I admit that sounded directly the opposite of what I would have expected. But after some thought I question if the stabilizer is reacting to road bumps from one side of the truck and saving that momentary force in the stabilizer causing the truck to track in that direction only to be countered by the next bump.

As for this being a problem with ALL STRAIGHT AXLE TRUCKS I drive several larger straight axle trucks that steer like a Cadillac.

 

Had similar issues after changing my ball joints. Turns out I couldn't get enough grease in the zirk fittings with the trucks weight on it. After jacking the truck by the body (just a little) I was able to get more grease in the joints. Problem solved.

 

Are you saying the new ball joints were so dry that they were taking a set from road bumps and causing the wandering?

 

I have a brand new steering stabilizer (but no brackets) and it moves firm, in and out, not like a shock that wants to push out.

 

Basically, the only replacements I could find at that time were the servicable type that required me to add grease. Upon installation, they were dry. I attempted to pump in grease with the truck on the ground and was only able to get a little bit in. The steering was "sticky", you couldn't feel it in the steering wheel but it was overcorrecting all the time and not wanting to return to strait completely. After regreasing the problem went away.

 

The more I look into this problem the more I am thinking the none greaseable ball joints are something that has to be replaced for just the reason you experienced, the originals have to get stiff over time.
While addressing the ball joints another factor that can be addressed would be an adjustable caster system to get some caster into the alignment. The Ford front end is designed just like my little red wagon.

 

Thanks, I think I'll cross the stabalizer off as a potential contributer to the problem

 

An age after buying my "GII Radius Rods", I found a local muffler & welding-shop that was prepared to fit the 'rods. Initial quotes were from $ 165 to $ 450 ! This fellow did it for $ 55 : -) Californians are bent-out-of-shape worrying about law suits if something goes wrong!

My 2005, 5.4l gas, 2WD Excursion has 27000 miles on the clock. By comparison to the first 20-odd thousand miles, it drives like a SPORTS car now. I can't get enough of driving it. Oh man, just give me any excuse and I'm off down the road : ))

I can't understand why Ford didn't make it standard. Dealers do a whole quick-step side-step dance when you ask them about the steering problem and I got nowhere.

Thanks for a great product and incredibly detailed technical support!

Best regards,
D

 

My truck is an early 99 and did not come with a steering stabilizer and has these wandering problems. I just replaced drivers side upper & lower ball joints which seem to have helped a little. Do ya'll think it would be worth time & money to put a steering stabilizer on?

 

I have tried everything with mine. I put a new steering stabilizer on, because it helped fix the wander on my jeep, but it didnt help my F250 any, I just cant find the problem, I've put everything on new and had 3 different mechanics, that i trust, look at it and we can still cant find anything. It just seems like i am constantly trying to correct where the truck wants to go.

My trucks steering is tight so i know this isnt cause by play in the steering wheel on my truck, i just cant find the problem. It extremely annoying if you are like me and pull a big toy hauler trailer.

I dont think its a steering staibilizer problem, or a tire size problem, I've tried 3 different set that were different sizes with no luck at all.

The only thing that I noticed is that there is no track bar on the back axle, my rear track bar was loose on my jeep one time and it caused serious problems. so i may try to build a track bar for the rear axle since no one makes one. it just feels like the back of my truck wanders and it pushes the front from side to side.

 

I believe that there are many factors that effect 'wander', but some have a much larger impact.

Caster - #1 reason for wander. I won't go into the geometry here but increasing caster will make any vechile track straight. just becasue an alignment shop sets it to 'spec' does not mean it is 'correct' or 'ideal. especially if the suspension is modified or lifted. there is a lot of good info on the web about camber/caster/toe and it effects on vechile handling.

My 77 bronco is a good exsample. it was almost undrivable with additional lift and mods. I then added custom raduis arms with an additional 6 degrees of caster. now I can cruz 75mph with no hands on the steering wheel.

Now keep in mind that the box leaks, the steering u-joint is shot, both collum bearing are toast so the steering wheel has a few inches of play but it doesn't wander any more.

Tires - when I went from old 285 BFG ATs to 315 terra crapplers without changing anything else. BFG did not wander, Nittos do.

 

Have fun,

Here are two links I can find:


LANDYOT Radius Rod installation on 2000 Ford Excursion | SuperMotors.net

Landyot Radius Rods | SuperMotors.net

 

Steering wheel slop removed--
I know this is not new news, but I managed to take about 2" of play out of my steering wheel. After more than a week of adjusting the set screw on the steering box every day, I just took some advice and run it to the bottom then backed it out 1/2 turn. This worked! I now have very little play, maybe just a touch more than my 06.

Now, I still have the wander and constant correct problem like billfishnut. I will grease my ball joints this week end with the pressure off the tires. If anybody has an idea how to remove a broken zerk fitting from the upper joint(w/o removing the axelshaft), I would be much appreciative.

 

UPDATE. I'm down in southwest FL for the winter but i'm still driving my truck and it still wanders. However for what it's worth I revisited the air pressure thread on here and then went out and adjusted the front tire pressure down to the Ford doorplate pressure of 55PSI. I had it in my mind that the door plate said 65 PSI and i've been using that for a number of years and actually rounding up to 70. Then when we were going through all the stuff on this thread I tried airing them up to the sidewall pressure of 80PSI. Anyway, i left them at 80 and pulled the trailer down here at 80 and it tracked like cheet. So when i went from 80 to 55 i realized a marked improvement in handeling. Course i haven't tried it with the trailer hooked up but for just driving it's much better. So you might want to try lowering the front airpressure, it may help.