78 F150 fuel gauge
#1
78 F150 fuel gauge
Fuel gauge not working.Grounded out wire from connector at tank and gauge crept up to full, eliminating gauge.Replaced level sending unit, still the same problem.Good ground to sending unit.Checked both wires from sending unit for continuity...good. I have only put 5 gal. of gas in tank from bone dry and gauge does come up to just above the empty mark.Shouldn't it show at least a quater tank?
Last edited by buzzurd; 12-06-2008 at 03:13 PM. Reason: wrong statement
#5
Put,
__that adjustment on hold.
You just may hust have to clean/correct your pigtail contacts.
Go to thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6854822
If that don't work just look up thread: Gas gauge reading correctly??
__that adjustment on hold.
You just may hust have to clean/correct your pigtail contacts.
Go to thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6854822
If that don't work just look up thread: Gas gauge reading correctly??
#6
#7
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#8
#9
There,
__was no manufactured chassie ground.
You have to put one in. Two ways of doing this.
1. run batt.cable (no smaller than 6-ga.) from ground on battery to a bare metal spot on chassie, use a spiked washer (makes a more correct contact.) inbetween cable & chassie. Don't forget to put DIELECTRIC sillcone grease on the parts & chassie. (This grease is the same stuff you put in your spark-plug boots.)
2. run ground from engine block to chassie. Don't forget your spiked washers & D-grease.
TIP: your original ground should be going from your battery to your Engine block,
Directly to your block.
NOT to a bracket, intake bolt/nut, exsast manifold nut/bolt, Or even to the engine head.
Only, Directly to your block.
This the one & best soild route to grounding the block.
I have no less than 3 grounds on my own trucks & cars. (one to engine, one to chassie, & one to the body.)
__was no manufactured chassie ground.
You have to put one in. Two ways of doing this.
1. run batt.cable (no smaller than 6-ga.) from ground on battery to a bare metal spot on chassie, use a spiked washer (makes a more correct contact.) inbetween cable & chassie. Don't forget to put DIELECTRIC sillcone grease on the parts & chassie. (This grease is the same stuff you put in your spark-plug boots.)
2. run ground from engine block to chassie. Don't forget your spiked washers & D-grease.
TIP: your original ground should be going from your battery to your Engine block,
Directly to your block.
NOT to a bracket, intake bolt/nut, exsast manifold nut/bolt, Or even to the engine head.
Only, Directly to your block.
This the one & best soild route to grounding the block.
I have no less than 3 grounds on my own trucks & cars. (one to engine, one to chassie, & one to the body.)
#10
#11
#13
There,
__was no manufactured chassie ground.
You have to put one in. Two ways of doing this.
1. run batt.cable (no smaller than 6-ga.) from ground on battery to a bare metal spot on chassie, use a spiked washer (makes a more correct contact.) inbetween cable & chassie. Don't forget to put DIELECTRIC sillcone grease on the parts & chassie. (This grease is the same stuff you put in your spark-plug boots.)
2. run ground from engine block to chassie. Don't forget your spiked washers & D-grease.
TIP: your original ground should be going from your battery to your Engine block,
Directly to your block.
NOT to a bracket, intake bolt/nut, exsast manifold nut/bolt, Or even to the engine head.
Only, Directly to your block.
This the one & best soild route to grounding the block.
I have no less than 3 grounds on my own trucks & cars. (one to engine, one to chassie, & one to the body.)
__was no manufactured chassie ground.
You have to put one in. Two ways of doing this.
1. run batt.cable (no smaller than 6-ga.) from ground on battery to a bare metal spot on chassie, use a spiked washer (makes a more correct contact.) inbetween cable & chassie. Don't forget to put DIELECTRIC sillcone grease on the parts & chassie. (This grease is the same stuff you put in your spark-plug boots.)
2. run ground from engine block to chassie. Don't forget your spiked washers & D-grease.
TIP: your original ground should be going from your battery to your Engine block,
Directly to your block.
NOT to a bracket, intake bolt/nut, exsast manifold nut/bolt, Or even to the engine head.
Only, Directly to your block.
This the one & best soild route to grounding the block.
I have no less than 3 grounds on my own trucks & cars. (one to engine, one to chassie, & one to the body.)
#14
Tis the season for fuel gauge problems I guess... I just posted the other day on my experience. Just a quick recap: I fill mine up, gauge reads full. Gauge on empty, fill back up, tank only holds 10 gallons. I dropped the tank took out the sending unit. I observed the position of the float in the angle that it would be in while installed in the tank and noticed that it was about 3 inches above the pick up tube. I bent the arm float arm so that the float was about an inch over the pick up tube. Reinstalled everything and the fuel guage now reads closer to what the level in the tank. It might not be 100% accurate but close enough.
#15
I see...... I'll double check the wires on the batt. I'm pretty sure there's some wire attached to the negative already but I'm not sure where it goes yet. As for dropping the tank, I sure hope it don't come to that....prolly wont get it back together with the same straps. If only I could just tap something with a hammer and have it work for a few more months till I'm better off lol
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