Didn't get around to bypassing the voltage regulator but did do something stupid.
I was cleaning/wire brushing all the connections and checking to see if it helped (it did help the crank strength). In between, I did my normal take the key out and leave it on the seat.
I was working on another project and left the battery to charge for awhile and wouldn't you know it, the last time, I left the key in and the ignition turned on. Musta fried something cuz the starter relay just makes an awful clicking sound. I ordered a new one, hopefully that's all I messed up, did I do any other damage?

 

Took the starter off and its fried. Molten even. Too it in and the guy said it was too far gone to rebuild. He found me a replacement starter, but warned that something was amiss to fry the starter that badly.
Its still mostly stock. Two large gauge copper wires from the relay to the starter. new battery and voltage regulator. Got some new battery cables to go in as well (6volt from Mac's). Anything I should check to keep from burning up the new one?

 

[QUOTE]I was cleaning/wire brushing all the connections and checking to see if it helped (it did help the crank strength). this tells me that you do not have unit grounded as needed. remove all connections-(one at a time)- and clean ALL sides for connection. make sure block is grounded to cab AND frame, along with battery. use sandpaper to remove paint, rust, etc. also--make sure you have correct polarity, (pos or neg ground), before connecting battery. good luck

 

apparently i hit submit twice, and for some reason can not delete entry. ???

 

Be absolutely certain that the grounding path from the engine to the battery is complete WITH CABLES not just relying on contenuity.

In other words, the ground from the battery (positive cable with a 6V positive ground) is bolted to the frame of the truck. Also, you MUST have a DEDICATED grounding cable of the same gauge, attached to the engine and co-bolted with the end of the grounding cable on the frame that's from the battery. You ASLO need a grounding strap running from your firewall/cab, to the frame.

As mentioned, all connections MUST be clean, not painted, and tight - no gaskets or sealers. Also, make sure the mating surface of your starter and bell housing are clean, bare, metal when you install the starter to assure a good ground. Do not use stainless steal bolts to mount your starter.

Get a new starter relay.

PS. All original 6 Volt positive ground system and components, right?

 

I do have a new starter relay ready to go. Hopefully, this will get her going. Next will be stopping (brakes need attention).

 

A lot of very nice info happening here on this thread. THANKS TO ALL!

 

Okay. New starter in. New positive term to engine block ground. New negative term to starter relay cable.
Installed new starter relay (old one has push button on bottom, new on does not. Connect everything back up and it cranks itself.
Put the old starter relay back in and now no cranking unless I press the button (on dash on bottom of the relay.
Any how, it cranks now. A little weak but it will start and runs. Gonna make some more adjustments.
What's up with the relay? Do I need a new one with the push button on the bottom.
I am trying to get some photos up.

 

Here is the starting point. The starter is already in place. The two wires on the left post go directly to the starter.


More baseline shots (actually this is post as the new negative cable is visible)


Here is the ground before the replacement


New grounding strap


And its insertion

 

Close up of the starter relay, old one in place after yanking out the new one (note the new nut)


The voltage regulator

No real shots of the new relay in place, it didn't stay long as I couldn't reconnect the battery without it trying to crank (not fun when your straddling the engine block)

 

It sounds like it's the wrong solenoid.

But a couple of quick questions. First do you have a starter button that has two wires and pushing the buttom closes the circuit between the two wires, or does it have one wire that power flows to and it is gounded through it's case to the dash?

Second question, does you new solenoid have three terminals (two big ones and one small one) or four terminals (two big and TWO small)?

 

The new one looks like the old: two large terminals and one small (S) the I is plugged. Same as the old.

I have to get out there to look behind the dash at the starter button. It should be stock but I don't know what that means either.

Thanks.

 

Put the new relay in. Works great

Here's the new starter and grounding strap




It's starting well and running great. Got new bleeder screws and it's stopping as well.

Now gotta figure out how to tighten the steering...

 

If I am not mistaken you jack the truck up so the wheels are supported off the ground. Next loosen the large locking nut on the steering shaft on the opposite side of the pitman arm. Using a screw driver turn the inner screw while someone gently wiggles the steering wheel. The object is to remove some slack without over-tightening the screw. Re-tighten the locking nut.

If that doesn't remove the play then it's time to freshen the kingpins, tie rod ends and steering rod end.

Good luck.

 

Also, there is a lash adjustment screw on the side of the steering box as well. It has a machine screw that is held in place with a locking nut. To adjust, loosen the locking nut and tighten the machine screw until it just makes contact. Then back it out 1/4 turn. Check that you have full turn of the steering wheel without binding. If it binds slowly back out the machinse screw until you get no dragging. Then reset teh locking nut in place.

Glad to hear your solenoid is working now!!!!!!! Step by step....