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  #1  
Old 11-30-2008, 09:33 PM
jdhudall jdhudall is offline
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Cool 2001 F150 supercrew 4x4 oil pump and pan removal?

I have a 2001 F150 supercrew 4x4 and the oil pump or screen is pluged and I need to replace the pump and clean the screen and pick up tube! I just want to know what is the easiest way to do that? How do I remove the oil pan without taking the engine out? Please Help before my truck has a heart attack!
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  #2  
Old 12-01-2008, 06:02 AM
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Bobby82490 Bobby82490 is offline
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How do you know that your oil pump or pickup is bad without already taking off the pan? Does the oil pressure "guage" on the dash show no oil pressure while running?
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Old 12-01-2008, 09:10 AM
jdhudall jdhudall is offline
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The oil pressure gauge stays at 0 while running and the light comes on for no oil! After a while it will come on then drop off again after about 2 minutes of running it will stay on! It only does this when the temp outside hits 40 degrees or less the colder it is the longer it takes to start working! I know when the temp is cold oil is like honey but I do use motocraft 5w20 synthetic blend since it was new change oil every 3000 miles! So either the pick up tube and screen are plugged or the oil pump is gettting weak! The truck has 98,000 miles and has always been taken care of!
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Old 12-01-2008, 11:16 AM
Deebo Deebo is offline
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I just changed my oil sending unit last week end because it was doing exactly what your truck is doing and now all is well.
I would say you need an oil sending unit.
It is located right beside the oil filter. Take off the oil spill cover on top of the front differential to get to it easier. The sending unit was nine dollars and some change.
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Old 12-01-2008, 12:03 PM
jdhudall jdhudall is offline
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If it was the oil sending unit it would do it all year long not just when its cold and it wouldn't tick if it was just the sending unit!
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Old 12-01-2008, 12:57 PM
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Also I just pulled off my fram filter and put the motor craft oil filter and my oil was black and I just changed oil 200 miles ago?
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Old 12-01-2008, 02:11 PM
Deebo Deebo is offline
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Maybe that is the problem (Strainer clogged)
But everything you stated that your gage is doing is exactly what mine was doing. It didn't do it in the summer. always when it's cold. always at start up. bounce up and down a couple of times and then be ok and alright for the rest of the day until the next morning when it was completely cold.

My truck is an 01' and only has 41K on it. When I removed the sending unit it had oil in where the wire plugs in. It has been a problem on these trucks.
I would change the sending unit first and then if it still does it then you've got big problems.
If you had no oil pressure to the top of the motor you would hear it in the engine.
Do you have any laboring sounds like clicking,clattering or squealing?
If not and the engine sounds good you need a oil sending unit.
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Old 12-01-2008, 03:33 PM
jdhudall jdhudall is offline
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I still don't see how a sending unit could only be bad in cold weather if it is faulty it shouldn't matter if it is 100 degrees or -20 below it should be faulty all the time. I changed the filter and it worked fine today and it is only 22 degrees so hopfully it was just the fact that I was using fram oil filter! I have read that all the oil drains back in the pan when motocraft has anti-drianback feature to prevent dry starts !
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:04 PM
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@gadsdenfree
The sending unit can't be but about $10 and it is a 5 minute job. I'd change it just 'cause - not the best diagnostic way to handle things, but compared to pulling the pan it would be a gamble worth taking. Stuff could be clogged in there that gets gummier in the cold and loosens up when hot. Worth the $10 in my mind.
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Old 12-02-2008, 07:34 AM
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I will replace it just cause it is only $10 but I still need to know what is the best way to remove the pan and oil screen and pick up tube! I really don't want to have to pull the motor but I plan on doing a motor flush then clean the pick up tube and screen!
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  #11  
Old 12-02-2008, 11:31 AM
Deebo Deebo is offline
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Remove all of the bolts from the pan and see if it will slide out . If not remove the 4 motor mount bolts and jack the motor up enough to remove the pan.
Should'nt take much probably an inch or so, the exhaust and everything should just move up with the motor.
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:08 AM
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Not to be rude..... but, if the sensor fixes it, then how would you benefit from spending ALOT of time removing the oil pan, motor mounts, etc? Unless you are absolutely positive you have a nasty sludge problem or similar, then it would probably be a wasted effort.

Just a suggestion.
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Old 12-03-2008, 06:38 AM
Deebo Deebo is offline
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Very true.. I don't see how it could be sludged up if the oil was changed every three thousand miles. It's just not heard of today.
Oh well, some one is bound and determined that the pan needs to come off.
It's not the Fram filter or a clogged strainer it's the OIL SENDING UNIT.
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Old 12-03-2008, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdhudall View Post
I will replace it just cause it is only $10 but I still need to know what is the best way to remove the pan and oil screen and pick up tube! I really don't want to have to pull the motor but I plan on doing a motor flush then clean the pick up tube and screen!
I had to remove the pan to replace my dipstick tube that had rusted in half. I'm not positive, but I think once you remove all the pan bolts you have to remove the crossmember for the 4wd front diff (can't remember if your's if 4wd or not). Once that is out it comes right out.

As to the sludge, I'm with others here. I wouldn't go to all the trouble to pull the pan until I had tried a few others things first. I'm a big fan of Seafoam - dump a can of that in the oil and run it for about 50-100 miles. It will clean out a ton of the gunk and loosen up the sludge in the bottom - then drain it when hot and I have to think most of anything would come out. This oil is so think to begin with it doesn't seem to me tat much sludge builds as compared to the straight 30 weight and the 20/50s we used to run. I'm not an oil expert or anything, just an observation.
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1996 F350 XLT CCLB 7.3 PSD, 3" RSK lift, 6637, DP to straight exhaust, Edge Evolution (soon to be removed), 33's, TransGo Tugger kit, IH water pump, Beans eFuel..... next up ->Stage 1's, SD HPOP and DP Infinity
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  #15  
Old 12-03-2008, 10:34 AM
jdhudall jdhudall is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby82490 View Post
Not to be rude..... but, if the sensor fixes it, then how would you benefit from spending ALOT of time removing the oil pan, motor mounts, etc? Unless you are absolutely positive you have a nasty sludge problem or similar, then it would probably be a wasted effort.

Just a suggestion.
Well I really don't think it is the sending unit because every time my oil pressure gauge reads 0 it knocks like it is about to through a rod and if there is no oil getting to the engine it's going to knock! My truck has never had a tick or knock ever even when it was -20 below so this leads me to belive their is a bigger problem than the sending unit!
No one here has told me how a sending unit can work perfect 9 months out of the year and only act up during the winter months then work fine again all spring,summer,and fall? If something is bad it would be bad all the time! If your alernator is bad it is not going to work every other day it will just die and not work at all! I don't want to do more work than I have too but
the sending unit will not cause my truck to knock, tick or otherwise the only thing it does is send a signal to the gauge. As I said when ever the gauge reads no oil pressure and the little red light is on it ticks and knocks which would tell me that the gauge is working just fine! I will replace it since it is cheap and easy just to see if it stays working!
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Old 12-03-2008, 10:34 AM
 
 
 
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