460 swap int0 68 f100 original six cyl
#1
460 swap int0 68 f100 original six cyl
I know there are lots of articles and info here about this but all the posts seemed to differ slightly from my question. I understand to get the the 429/460 installed engine stands and motor mounts must be changed to either a kit or the stands from the onor truck. The donor truck was a total loss. The 429 has been built up and is now pushing 500hp/450tq. LMC has a 429/460 stand/mount swap kit for 175.00 in their 67-72 catalog. The 73-79 catalog has new front engine mounts for 44.00 for the pair (part#45-0325). Is their a benefit to the kit or a problem with the repro stands? The other option is fab my own with urethane inserts like the ones in the catalog. On a side note I will be adding disc brakes from a 78 f100 or if I find a nice one I'll do the crown vic swp instead but I am married to the 460 so please any advice on this project will be very much appreciated.
#3
I can only imagine, but suspect that since it was in the later years that the 460 was offered the kits are different. I suspect the 67-72 has the perches included with the mounts.
The original late 70s perches with new mount pads should be fine. Those motors were pretty stout to start with. IMHO
John
The original late 70s perches with new mount pads should be fine. Those motors were pretty stout to start with. IMHO
John
#4
i should have used better terminology. The 73-79 catalog from LMC has new engine perches. The 429 I have has motor mounts installed for a 78 or 79 f150/100. Is it better to buy the perches or a swap kit that has matching perches and mounts? Next question: If I go with the Crown Victoria front crossmember to lower my center of gravity for better cornering will the aluminum crossmember be strong enough for the combined weight and torque? (I'll need custom perches and mounts if I go this route) Last 2 questions combined: Was an original 78/79 460 2wd swb equipped with front or rear sump oil pan and how much lower will the engine be able to sit with a rear sump pan? I am pretty sure the wrong pan is currently installed because the drain plug is on the side as found in passenger cars.
Please give opinions, options, testimonials so that I may have enough info to move forward. Thanks.
Please give opinions, options, testimonials so that I may have enough info to move forward. Thanks.
#5
#7
The factory units are a cross bolt type. If you break a mount the engine does not roll out the fender well...They are a three piece unit.
The LMC units are made in china by persons making about 3 cents an hour of maybe ATSM grade steels? and have a poly bushing with a single maybe grade 1 cross bolt. Will they work, Probably just be aware what you are buying. They bolt to the stock holes on the cross member and have mounts for the engine. Also check that these place the engine on the correct center line as a Fords engine is offset to the passenger side.
Use a rear sump pan as the cars front sump has the oil outlet in the middle of the cross member, A little hard to do oil changes.
Garbz
The LMC units are made in china by persons making about 3 cents an hour of maybe ATSM grade steels? and have a poly bushing with a single maybe grade 1 cross bolt. Will they work, Probably just be aware what you are buying. They bolt to the stock holes on the cross member and have mounts for the engine. Also check that these place the engine on the correct center line as a Fords engine is offset to the passenger side.
Use a rear sump pan as the cars front sump has the oil outlet in the middle of the cross member, A little hard to do oil changes.
Garbz
Last edited by garbz2; 12-02-2008 at 06:00 PM. Reason: added info
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#8
Thanks guys. The engine is a 429 with roller rockers a nasty cam for torque, ported and polished, weiand stealth intake port matched and polished. No decisions for a carb yet and I have C-6 tranny built to easily handle the engine. Ford 9" out back haven't decided on gears yet. I am also considering a US Gear overdive setup. Originally it was an engine built for a dirt track car of some fashion then briefly transplanted in a 79 f150 which was quickly totalled. My goal is to rebuild the truck I bought from my grandfather when I was 16. I foolishly sold the truck and after about 10 years I was able to buy it back in terrible condition. Currently I am rebuilding everything the way I dreamed about when I was 16 so that it will be complete to pass on to my son or grandson one day so please think in terms of long term solutions for this project.
#10
part of the question still lingers
The factory units are a cross bolt type. If you break a mount the engine does not roll out the fender well...They are a three piece unit.
The LMC units are made in china by persons making about 3 cents an hour of maybe ATSM grade steels? and have a poly bushing with a single maybe grade 1 cross bolt. Will they work, Probably just be aware what you are buying. They bolt to the stock holes on the cross member and have mounts for the engine. Also check that these place the engine on the correct center line as a Fords engine is offset to the passenger side.
Use a rear sump pan as the cars front sump has the oil outlet in the middle of the cross member, A little hard to do oil changes.
Garbz
The LMC units are made in china by persons making about 3 cents an hour of maybe ATSM grade steels? and have a poly bushing with a single maybe grade 1 cross bolt. Will they work, Probably just be aware what you are buying. They bolt to the stock holes on the cross member and have mounts for the engine. Also check that these place the engine on the correct center line as a Fords engine is offset to the passenger side.
Use a rear sump pan as the cars front sump has the oil outlet in the middle of the cross member, A little hard to do oil changes.
Garbz
Only part of the question was answered. I understand the frailty of the swap kit style mounts. Several sites have the factory stle 460 mounts (which are the same block as my 429) for the 78 and 79 trucks, are these sufficient. I know they are repro in some little factory somewhere over seas with no loyalty to the quality of classic iron but the catlog lists them as replacements to the originals an the 78-79 trucks not the kit with poly inserts.
#11
Garz is right,had a friend buy some last year,wound up sending them back after we looked them over,poor quality,as for the other repro the old saying stands true(you get what you pay for).I personally use factory mounts when we do them,we used some in a 78 Bronco that we swapped crossmember and mounts from similar f150 with a very stout 460(close specs to yours )and the 2 years I owned it I never had a mount issue.If you would like I can scrounge up a set of mounts/brackets for you on the cheap.
#12
#13
I have two sets,one is powdercoated black the other is still as removed(needs cleaning),I will sell the coated ones for $60 shipped and the others are $45 shipped.These are three piece design and really need the rubber insulators replaced,(Orielly / Napa type parts).If you buy a set and decide not to use them put em on ebay,Ive got $85 before there.Let me know for sure,I will keep the other set.
#14
It would seem you're out for a performance setup--Might want to consider a set of front and mid motor plates either mounting the engine solid or using some poly inserts where the plates connect to the chassis...Takes a bit of fabrication, but it sure does tie the engine in tight!!!! I like the Crown Vic suspension idea, followed that thread closely... with the combination of the lowered suspension and engine mount plates and travel limiter you would have a truck capable of handling and hooking up all the BBF horsepower you would ever want to build into it!!!!!
PS--Should I ever get caught up on other projects, this is what my next bumpside is going to be.....
PS--Should I ever get caught up on other projects, this is what my next bumpside is going to be.....
#15
Do you know where they mount on the crossmember? The ones I took out were mounted at the cabside of the (rear) of the crossmember. Also do you have any idea on the clearance between the oilpan and the crossmember. I would like to lower the center of gravity if at all possible to move closer to theat 50-50 setup. I have a mustang and have gotten used to going around corners hard and would like the truck to do the same.