DIY - Cam Phaser Replacement - Page 4 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums



2004 - 2008 F150 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008 Ford F150's with 5.4 V8, 4.6 V8 engine

DIY - Cam Phaser Replacement

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #46  
Old 05-07-2014, 09:00 AM
bigj-dog bigj-dog is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 5
bigj-dog is starting off with a positive reputation.
Ditto on the pictures not working, a little visual reassurance would be a welcome injection of confidence.
Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old 11-16-2014, 01:33 PM
cars83 cars83 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 11
cars83 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Question "HELP" Camshaft Movement

So I did everything that you posted, except when I started I went brain dead and forgot to hold down the pass side shaft, so when I removed the chain the shaft moved a good amount, and when I tried to move it back to the correct lobe the shaft had tension and completely moved the other direction.

So my question is how do I get the shaft back in to time in order to get the point to putting the timing chains back on and tested?

Do I need to do like it states on the link below?

(How To Remove/Replace/Inspect/Install A Camshaft Phaser Sprocket)

timing « AutoRepairInstructions.com

Thanks in advance.
Reply With Quote
  #48  
Old 05-28-2015, 10:32 AM
Steve Bassen Steve Bassen is offline
New User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Hagerstown, MD
Posts: 11
Steve Bassen is starting off with a positive reputation.
Chhanged image hosting again... if a moderator could throw this in the original post, that'd be greaat...


I did both my cam phasers today in my 2004 F-150. They've both been rattling since I bought it a year ago with 45k on it, and I've been researching the last few weeks before deciding to tackle this job (mostly) by myself. I had my neighbor's help turning some wrenches (we tackled both sides mostly at the same time), as well as a mutual friend who is a master tech at a local Ford dealership. Before starting, let me say that the replacement of the phasers themselves is very straight forward. It's getting to the phasers that's the time consuming part. The job took approximately 7 hours, which included an hour to pull the driver's side valve cover during reassembly after realizing the #8 injector plug had managed to get stuck under it. This writeup assumes that you have basic mechanical knowledge when it comes to your truck. If I mention something like unplugging the coil pack and fuel injector connections, I'm not going to go into detail on that, I'll assume you can figure that out on your own. I'll be focusing on the driver's side job in this writeup, as it's the simpler side, and the techniques can be applied to the passenger side. I'm going off memory here, so this should be used as a general outline, not an every last detail step by step procedure. I might miss minor things here and there, but nothing that common sense can't fill in the blanks for.

A few things to note:

- You do not have to put the motor to TDC or anything since you aren't removing the cams themselves in this procedure
- Try not to run the truck immediately before doing this, this should (probably) keep the lash adjusters somewhat bled down and relieve tension on the cam


Tools needed (recommended, going off memory):
Rotunda/OTC Ford Timing Wedge (new style) #303-1175 - Without this you need to pull the front cover, it's truly worth its weight in gold, although that probably explains why this simple piece of delrin on the end of a stick costs $150+
assorted sockets and wrenches in 7mm,8mm,10mm, 13mm,15mm,18mm
1/4" drive socket wrench and at least two extensions and a swivel
3/4" driver socket wrench, extensions galore, swivel
torque wrench that measures in foot-pounds
1/2" breaker bar with 3/8" adapter
large vice grips
gloves (your hands with thank you)
zip ties (longer the better)
Advil for your back
your beverage of choice
an extra set of hands (helpful for some of the steps)

Parts needed:
Cam phaser kit (3R2Z-6A257-DA) (per side)
Valve cover gasket (3L3Z-6584-EA) (per side)


1) Disconnect battery

2) Remove air intake tube

3) Unbolt power steering reservoir (3 10mm bolts) and move out of way

4) Unbolt power steering reservoir bracket (2 13mm bolts, and 1 18mm bolt at bottom, attached to head)

5) Remove PCV tube from valve cover

6) Unplug main harness on driver's side valve cover (includes cam position sensor, VCT solenoid, fuel injectors, coil packs (you might label the plugs, but the harness is only long enough for them to go to their respective injector/coil) TPS, throttle control, and maybe or two other things)

7) Zip-tie the power steering reservoir and the harness out of the way

8) With the valve cover exposed, used compressed air to blow any dirt away from it, this will keep you from getting dirt in the valvetrain when you pull the cover off

8) Loosen the valve cover bolts (8mm). You do not need to completely remove them, as they retain themselves in the covers just fine once they're unthreaded. The ones that are out in the open are easily accessible. The rearmost will be a challenge. I used a combination of 1/4" extensions, an 8mm deep well, and a swivel to get the back/center bolt loosened, and that was while sitting on the radiator core support with my feet in the engine compartment, and my head resting against the cowl weatherstripping. All I can say is good luck, it isn't fun.

At this point you should have something resembling this:


9) Remove the bolt from the dipstick tube (8mm, you don't need to remove the tube itself)

10) Remove the ignition coil packs (7mm, give them a good twist to free the boot)

11) Remove the Cam Position Sensor from the front of the head

12) At this point, use a pry-bar or screwdriver to break the valve cover loose from the head (be careful to not damage the mating surfaces) and lift the cover off. Make note of the VCT solenoid, you must be careful not to damage this as you remove the cover (see red arrow).



13) Take your timing wedge tool and note the shape of it


14) Insert the timing wedge into the engine in front of the phaser, in between the two paths of the timing chain. The flat portion should be facing the center of the truck, I've tried to illustrate this below. Make sure it is snug, it should not be easily removed. If you mess this up, when you pull the phaser/sprocket off, the timing chain will go slack and you'll end up pulling the front cover and re-timing the whole motor.







15) Use some sort of marking device (I prefer Sharpie silver/metallic markers when working on motors) to index the cam phaser relative to the timing chain, as well as the camshaft itself (this mark is optional since the camshaft is indexed already with the cam phaser, thanks to the dowel pin)



16) Install the vice grip on the front of the camshaft, just behind the cam phaser (not on a lobe!), you'll be needing this to help offset the load on the timing chain when you break the phaser bolt loose

17) Using a breaker bar (or 1/2" drive socket wrench), break the phaser bolt loose while having another set of hands hold the vice grips steady



18) Remove the cam phaser bolt

19) Now's where you find out if you installed the timing wedge correctly. Gently pull the phaser off the end of the camshaft, while working the timing chain off of the sprocket. Hopefully there isn't any tension on the camshaft, although that's why you should have another set of hands holding the camshaft steady, just in case. In my instance, the camshaft had practically zero load on it and stayed put.





20) Transfer the indexing mark on the old cam phaser to the new one



21) Install the new phaser, making sure to line up your reference marks on the new phaser to the timing chain link that you marked before removing the old one. Slide the phaser onto the camshaft (there's a dowel pin that will seat in the camshaft, there's only one way for this to go on). You may need to have your assistant move the camshaft a degree or two one way or the other while you're doing this to get it to seat. Once it is on, install the NEW phaser bolt that came in the kit, finger tight.



22) Have your assistant hold the vice grips while torquing the new TTY bolt to 30ftlbs. Then, using a breaker bar, tighten the bolt an additional quarter turn (90 degrees). I recommend marking the bolt at 12 o-clock after intially torquing it (see second pic below), as you maybe have to make 2 1/8 turns (there's limited room to move a breaker bar in this engine bay), and that'll help keep you situated correctly.




23) Remove the timing wedge

If all went well, and if I haven't left anything out (I'm running on 3 hours of sleep at the moment while writing this), then you should have been successful in changing out your driver's side cam phaser. Start it up and see how it runs. If you messed up your timing marks, you'll know pretty quick as the computer will start throwing codes.

As far as the passenger side goes, a few notes:

- Unplug the PCM and remove it as well as the bracket
- Have a shop discharge/recover the R134 in the A/C system so you can unbolt the hard line that's above the valve cover, you'll need to do this for clearance
- Space is a premium on this side, even more-so than the driver's side
- Don't forget that the timing wedge should be installed opposite of how it was on the driver's side


I'm totally brain-dead at the moment, so that's all I've got right now. If there's any questions, post up and I'll try to answer them, or update this writeup.
Reply With Quote
  #49  
Old 05-28-2015, 03:34 PM
Stewart_H's Avatar
Stewart_H Stewart_H is offline
The Nekkid Super Mod
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Central Coast of CA
Posts: 23,964
Stewart_H has a superb reputationStewart_H has a superb reputationStewart_H has a superb reputationStewart_H has a superb reputationStewart_H has a superb reputationStewart_H has a superb reputationStewart_H has a superb reputationStewart_H has a superb reputationStewart_H has a superb reputationStewart_H has a superb reputationStewart_H has a superb reputation
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bassen View Post
Chhanged image hosting again... if a moderator could throw this in the original post, that'd be greaat...
EDIT: Just realized what you requested.

Original post updated.

Stewart

Last edited by Stewart_H; 05-28-2015 at 05:02 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #50  
Old 05-28-2015, 04:28 PM
atikovi atikovi is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Suburban Washington DC
Posts: 76
atikovi is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bassen View Post
I did both my cam phasers today in my 2004 F-150. They've both been rattling since I bought it a year ago with 45k on it
That's as amazing as the job. Where do you find a 10 year old truck with 45k on it?
Reply With Quote
  #51  
Old 07-10-2015, 12:41 PM
Steve Bassen Steve Bassen is offline
New User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Hagerstown, MD
Posts: 11
Steve Bassen is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by atikovi View Post
That's as amazing as the job. Where do you find a 10 year old truck with 45k on it?
It was 4 years old when I bought it

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewart_H View Post
EDIT: Just realized what you requested.

Original post updated.

Stewart
Thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #52  
Old 07-18-2015, 09:59 PM
ALB78 ALB78 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 6
ALB78 is starting off with a positive reputation.
cam phaser and timing kit

I have read that plastic tensioners are prone to leak , secondary one especially. If I replace with 99' model tensioners, are those better. Also are the guides better on the cloyes timing kit. If not what guides are better. I seen MMR billet aluminum are available but concerned with aluminum shavings getting into engine. Any advice wd be much appreciated
Reply With Quote
  #53  
Old 08-09-2015, 02:22 PM
Reid Krabill Reid Krabill is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 5
Reid Krabill is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALB78 View Post
I have read that plastic tensioners are prone to leak , secondary one especially. If I replace with 99' model tensioners, are those better. Also are the guides better on the cloyes timing kit. If not what guides are better. I seen MMR billet aluminum are available but concerned with aluminum shavings getting into engine. Any advice wd be much appreciated
I plan on using the metal tensioners. I'm buying melling bt402 and George from melling recommends them over plastic and George also said to not use a gasket.
Reply With Quote
  #54  
Old 09-07-2015, 02:28 AM
Westeagle Westeagle is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 2
Westeagle is starting off with a positive reputation.
Right Side Phaser

On the 2004 5.4 3v do I have to discharge the A/C and move the line to get the right valve cover off? I did the phaser on the left side but the right looks much harder.
Reply With Quote
  #55  
Old 09-08-2015, 08:47 PM
flyguy108 flyguy108 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Lombard Il.
Posts: 102
flyguy108 is starting off with a positive reputation.
No you don't have to but getting the valve cover out and back in is a royal pain in the a@#$ and you might pinch the gasket getting it back in. Blowing the charge in the a/c is not that big of a deal. The only things that you will need is a vacuum pump and a set of gauges to recharge it. Put the system on the vacuum pump and let it evacuate for about a half an hour then recharge with the proper amount of R-134 and oil. I believe it is written on the fan shroud.
Reply With Quote
  #56  
Old 09-12-2015, 12:45 AM
Westeagle Westeagle is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 2
Westeagle is starting off with a positive reputation.
Cam phasers before and after video

Wow got my cam phasers replaced and my f150 is quieter than it ever has been. I'm so happy!! Did it myself but it was a hard job.


Reply With Quote
  #57  
Old 11-09-2015, 11:34 AM
TimsToolBelt TimsToolBelt is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1
TimsToolBelt is starting off with a positive reputation.
2006 F150 Cam Phasers

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bassen View Post
I did both my cam phasers today in my 2004 F-150.
Thanks for posting this. I really need to do this repair. I did notice that you did not remove the rockers. In the other posts I have read this was done. Any reason? How did you avoid whatever problem they said would result in not doing this.
Tim

Last edited by Stewart_H; 11-10-2015 at 07:10 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #58  
Old 11-09-2015, 05:14 PM
rla2005's Avatar
rla2005 rla2005 is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Illinois
Posts: 12,103
rla2005 has much to be proud ofrla2005 has much to be proud ofrla2005 has much to be proud ofrla2005 has much to be proud ofrla2005 has much to be proud ofrla2005 has much to be proud ofrla2005 has much to be proud ofrla2005 has much to be proud ofrla2005 has much to be proud of
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimsToolBelt View Post
Thanks for posting this. I really need to do this repair. I did notice that you did not remove the rockers. In the other posts I have read this was done. Any reason? How did you avoid whatever problem they said would result in not doing this.
Tim
I did not remove the rockers either. Just like in the write-up you use the vise grips on the camshaft when removing the timing chain. There will be pressure on at least one lobe that may push on the camshaft which in turn may cause it turn one direction or the other. Use the vice grips as a leverage point to keep the camshaft from rotating too quickly. I then used it to pull the cam back into position after installing the new phaser then lining everything up to the timing chain.
Reply With Quote
  #59  
Old 03-26-2016, 02:00 PM
RoryTheFerret RoryTheFerret is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 20
RoryTheFerret is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by horn4life View Post
First off here is a link to exactly what my Expedition sounds like I got from the other forum Engine Noise - YouTube Loud ticking at 35 seconds is my biggest concern. It the phaser about to blow up? Or timing chain now getting loose and "slapping" causing the harder ticking?

I screwed up and put in too heavy oil before a trip and the damage was done but I have been too busy remodeling the house to make the work priority one. Now my truck sounds like the video and I need to get after it. I am assuming for parts both phasers, and perhaps timing belt tensioners (do I have to remove timing cover to gain access?) maybe all the lifters? Or at least pull and inspect?

Anyhow wondering what you guys think after listening to the other guys video.

ALSO here is a time lapse Cam Phaser Change that is a great example done by a professional, looks like he has a special valve tool to inspect/replace cam followers? 5.4lit 3v VCT Phaser replacement HD - YouTube

Trying to order all the parts today and afraid to drive the truck until I do the work (unless I am more afraid than I should be) as cheaper parts are a day or two away.

Thanks in advance from Austin Texas
I know this is an old post but this will help future owners...

The top video is very clearly a broken timing chain guide, probably caused by a failed tensioner. If your engine sounds like this, stop driving it, your timing chain is loose and can skip time resulting in busted valves and huge repair bills.

The noises in the video are caused by the guide pieces catching the chain, basically a bunch of plastic parts are rattling around in there as well as the metal chain bouncing around hitting the covers and stuff. That's why the noise is so random.
Reply With Quote
  #60  
Old 03-28-2016, 08:58 PM
re1999 re1999 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 4
re1999 is starting off with a positive reputation.
I see that these are old posts. Does anyone have any updates on their phaser replacements? I have heard after a few thousand miles the noise simply returns.

I have considered replacing the phasers and adding a high volume oil pump. Any thoughts, or has anyone tried this?

Also, I agree, the expedition video in the previous post sounds like the timing chain tensioners have failed and the chain is hitting the cover.
Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How to Save Installing 18 of 24 Followers on a Timing Job. macubus 2004 - 2008 F150 0 10-18-2016 12:38 PM
2007 5.4L phaser lockouts installed. JP3 2004 - 2008 F150 7 09-19-2016 11:17 AM
Cam Phaser / Timing Component Replacement Help Needed jrroth 2004 - 2008 F150 6 09-17-2013 06:44 PM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums >

Tags
2005, cam, chain, expedition, ford, kit, noise, phaser, phasers, replacement, solenoid, timing, tools, vct, wedge

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:21 AM.


This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.