Have a 1986 Bronco,351 winsor, 4180 carb with electric choke. I am the orginal owner, daily use since 86, 174,000.
Problem. Curb Idle speed will not adjust below 1200 rpm in neutral, in drive its 1000rpm, Idle adjust on side of carb will only speed up rpm. Dashpot is not touching anything, choke is open. I cannot get to the idle adjustments at the base of the carburetor, never opened the metal plugs to try an readjust.
I checked the Choke voltage with the connector wire removed from the round stud on the choke. Voltage here is only 1.0volts open circuit. traced the wire to what appears to be a relay mounted on the drivers side firewall. I have read somewhere that the voltage to the choke should be somewhere around 7vdc?? What is inside the relay can mounted on the firewall. This appears to be the source for the Choke voltage control.
Carburetor has never given me any problems, only had to replace the front float 10 years ago, minor leak on front bowl, tightened the mounting screws solved that.
So, rebuild, replace.
Since this is a special Holley list 50264 E5TE Ford/holley 4180. What is a good replacement. Current setup uses the EGR valve. Not familiar with getting ride of smog stuff. Live in Florida, so smog control is not a requirement, if I replace.
Have a 1986 Bronco,351 winsor, 4180 carb with electric choke. I am the orginal owner, daily use since 86, 174,000.
Problem. Curb Idle speed will not adjust below 1200 rpm in neutral, in drive its 1000rpm, Idle adjust on side of carb will only speed up rpm. Dashpot is not touching anything, choke is open. I cannot get to the idle adjustments at the base of the carburetor, never opened the metal plugs to try an readjust.
I checked the Choke voltage with the connector wire removed from the round stud on the choke. Voltage here is only 1.0volts open circuit. traced the wire to what appears to be a relay mounted on the drivers side firewall. I have read somewhere that the voltage to the choke should be somewhere around 7vdc?? What is inside the relay can mounted on the firewall. This appears to be the source for the Choke voltage control.
Carburetor has never given me any problems, only had to replace the front float 10 years ago, minor leak on front bowl, tightened the mounting screws solved that.
So, rebuild, replace.
Since this is a special Holley list 50264 E5TE Ford/holley 4180. What is a good replacement. Current setup uses the EGR valve. Not familiar with getting ride of smog stuff. Live in Florida, so smog control is not a requirement, if I replace.
Thanks for your help..Bob
Bob, I wouldn't mess with the air idle mixture screws under those plugs. Even if you do rebuild it, nothing should have changed there. Double check the secondary linkage for me, run the vehicle and when it is idling high as you say, check to see of the four barrel secondaries are stuck slightly open. I would push/pull on the linkage to the rear of the throttle cable attachment point where the secondary linkage is easily accessible. It may just be sticky/dirty etc. and be sticking open slighty, it's happened to me not all that long ago...
Rebuild kits, very cheap to very expensive and I really only see a difference in the paper gasket quality. $20ish bucks at an Autozone etc., add a hundred thru Ford unless you get a deal or have a connection. The needle and seat assemblies suck now compared to what they were in 1986. I have found a place online that has the better assy. Just my opinion on this part, I have had people disagree... Here's a link to where I found the OEM Ford Holley style needle and seat. If/when you get a kit you'll see what a difference there is in the part... FWIW, Ford, Napa and others did not have the original style assy. There is a difference... The good one does not leak and is easier to adjust, the inferior part works but is just not as good IMO.
I would say the Holley 4160 is as close as you get for Holley replacement, I believe they have them EGR and Non EGR. And the 4160 can be hopped up compared to the POS 4180C.
Here's some interesting reading on the 4180C too...
Been a while since I screwed around with a square bowl, or any carb for that matter. I do remember one problem that was similar to yours that bit me several times for a few minutes. Check the other side of the primary linkage where the choke is. Check to see if the "fast idle" ramp on the choke is not releasing properly, sometimes they will stick a little or the linkage at the choke will not allow the primary shaft to fully seat. When the Primary shaft fully seats, it is in contact with idle speed adjustment screw on the throttle cable side of the carb. Not sure this is it, but its easy to check---LOL
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