while I'm waiting on my asphalt patch job to dry so that I can slide under the truck, It looks like the engine is held on with 6 bolts to the tranny. Do you get the top 2 from the bay? also what's the best way to pull the engine off the mounts? I would expect them to have more access than it looks like.
I have a 3/4'' socket with a wobbly extension 1/2 drive into it, use that and about 3' of extensions to get to the top two bolts. Then you can have your air gun/ratchet down near the transmission cross member to get better access, and a better angle. The lower two are easier, easier to remove the turbocharger's downpipe to get more access. Then manually turn the engine over by the 24mm bolt on the end of the crankshaft, to remove the nuts on the Torque converter, there are 6. I believe they are 14mm/ 9/16 but dont hold me to that. The engine mounts are held down by 4 (two on each side) 13/16" nuts, that go through the engine cross member. That's all that really holds it in. Get a jack under the trans pan ( on some wood extensions) and then support it. Lift the engine up first to clear the mounting studs, then forward to release the converter. Then up (watch the wiper cowl) clear the oil pan drain plug on the cross member and out she comes. When i put my engine in, i used a thick re-bar in between the two eyes, and a chain in the center so it would not spin, plus it gave it better maneuverability, or however that's spelled.
Dont mind the douchebag in the picture, but look at how i have the engine on the chain..
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Thanks for the heads up. I took a look at the motor mounts and then mentally slapped myself on the back of the head for not realizing how easy they were. It looked like it would be easier to remove the 4 bolts each that hold the two halves together, then I realized I just had a brain fart. As far as lifting the engine out of the bay I have a 2 ton cherry picker with 2 ton load leveler. We'll see how good that works around the cowl. I may have to go see if I can pick up some rebar at home depot or something if it doesn't work. Right now though I'm just waiting for my asphalt to dry. I use several backs of cold patch to lay out a temp pad for the crane casters and my creeper. But it didn't setup well so I just put some more tar on it to see if it would setup better. I'll let ya know. BTW nice lookin engine.
Strokin,
You were right, needed a bar to lift that engine. The load leveler wasn't small enough around the cowl. Thanks for the heads up. Went much easier, but the bar we picked up just about didn't make it. Keep an eye out for it in the pictures to follow, it doesn't look nice. BTW there's video too. I will have to stabilize the bolts on the stand in the morning, but it's resting now. Here's the article.
We're trying to document in photos and video as much of this tear down and rebuild process as possible, so that the material will be available in the future for others out there who want to rebuild their 7.3L Powerstroke engines.
I was also shooting video and I hope to have some of that up in the next few days. Once I get my analog camcorder to co-operate with my video capture card.
I did some power washing of the motor and got some bolts today to mount the motor on the stand better (but not perfect still). I've started tearing down the upper end and doing some research into what's ahead. I've been reading some service manuals, and the one I have says there are special tools for dealing with the piston oil cooling jets in the block. Has anybody had any experience in using some basic tools or something not proprietary to handle these jets during a rebuild?
Sucks, my truck looks like that again. Ive got it down to a science now, i know every nut and bolt size, only took me a little over 2.5 hours to pull the motor out and have it on a stand lol.
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7.3 fully built longblock for sale PM me
I did some power washing of the motor and got some bolts today to mount the motor on the stand better (but not perfect still). I've started tearing down the upper end and doing some research into what's ahead. I've been reading some service manuals, and the one I have says there are special tools for dealing with the piston oil cooling jets in the block. Has anybody had any experience in using some basic tools or something not proprietary to handle these jets during a rebuild?
Thanks
Chad
The proper thread is m12x1.75 i believe, or just use the transmission bolts you took out! (afterthought). I believe it's a 3/8" or a regular 10mm socket to take the bolt off. Torque it down to 15-18lb-ft and get on with it.
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7.3 fully built longblock for sale PM me
Tranny bolts were too long for my stand. I had the local fastener store get me shorter ones that were metric 10.8 grade with some washers. Also the stand adapter plate bolts bent under the weight. They were crap bolts that came with a chinese engine stand. I hate buying that crap, cause i have to fix it to use it, but the budget won't allow otherwise. Those bolts got replaced with grade 8 bolts, now I just need to do the other 5 in the stand, but not while the engine is on it, then maybe I'll cough up the money to do it to the same crappy bolts on the crane. They are the same bad grade, but at least they haven't bent yet. They will probably get changed before I lower the engine into the bay now that I know better.
Chad
BTW strokin.....It's really bad if you can open up your tool box and recite off all the wrenches you will need, or worse yet, just grab them instinctively.
I have an OTC stand, it's rated at 1250lbs, and even with the weight of the dressed engine, it doesnt sag 1/2" if that at the front of the crank. It's one tough unit
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7.3 fully built longblock for sale PM me
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