main wiring harness
#3
a few questions..... 1. a/c or not ??
2. whats its sequential number(last 6 of the VIN)...dont forget the letter either...
3. which engine is in it
4. oil pressure light and/or gauge
5. alternator light and/or gauge
6. which plant was truck built at...VIN answers that
IF you have the harness out, or opened up enough..like if the cluster is out, there should be a tag thats part of the wrap...it will be either white or yellow...there will be an engineering type number on this tag along with a letter, possibly 2 at the end...it would be something like C8TB14444 A or similar...the tag will say FoMoCo or similar on it as well...they are about 1/2 to an inch wide depending on how it was wrapped...it would most likely be on the fattest part of the loom..if you look on some of the other harnesses on the truck you will find tags as well and see what I am referring to.
If you find the tag and its clearly legible and so on...with the letter or letters at the end, that will be all thats needed to get its part number...they used about 10 different harnesses on these depending on the above info.
- cs65
2. whats its sequential number(last 6 of the VIN)...dont forget the letter either...
3. which engine is in it
4. oil pressure light and/or gauge
5. alternator light and/or gauge
6. which plant was truck built at...VIN answers that
IF you have the harness out, or opened up enough..like if the cluster is out, there should be a tag thats part of the wrap...it will be either white or yellow...there will be an engineering type number on this tag along with a letter, possibly 2 at the end...it would be something like C8TB14444 A or similar...the tag will say FoMoCo or similar on it as well...they are about 1/2 to an inch wide depending on how it was wrapped...it would most likely be on the fattest part of the loom..if you look on some of the other harnesses on the truck you will find tags as well and see what I am referring to.
If you find the tag and its clearly legible and so on...with the letter or letters at the end, that will be all thats needed to get its part number...they used about 10 different harnesses on these depending on the above info.
- cs65
#6
#7
I just took all my wiring out and replaced it all with an EZ wire kit. I bought the 12 fuse kit for $170. It came with a fusebox, fuses, all relays needed. I don't know why the painless kits cost so much more. I looked at both and went with EZwiring. I had no issues with the quality. The link is here Home
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#8
#9
Since you are doing a restoration you probably want the factory harness. I have the one (complete) removed from my 68. But I was holding onto it till get my truck back together, at my rate 1+ years. I know I'm going to need a couple of connectors off it. Mine has the round pins on the light switch. This is the early version. In 69 they switched to flat spade type.
#10
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Boy Ford used all there extra or over run parts so you never know what's under the hood until you check the #'s.There was round and flat ign switchs used also . The round seem to over heat the contacts that causes a starting problem. There was a replacement pigtail for the round contact type pins. my 2cents
orich
orich
#12
I doubt you'll find any aftermarket wiring kit that is truck specific. Most of the aftermarket kits are marked on the wire where each goes. Just bolt the fuse box on your truck and run the wires to where they need to go. Make sure you know what each factory wire runs to, it'll make the job easier when you try to tie your new wires into the steering column, taillight and headlight harnesses, dimmer, and ignition and headlight switches.
#14
1968/70 Ignition Switch
Boy Ford used all there extra or over run parts so you never know what's under the hood until you check the #'s.There was round and flat ign switchs used also.
The round seem to over heat the contacts that causes a starting problem.
There was a replacement pigtail for the round contact type pins. THERE IS MORE INVOLVED THAN JUST THAT PIGTAILED PLUG!
THE SWITCH IS ALSO DIFFERENT!! orich
The round seem to over heat the contacts that causes a starting problem.
There was a replacement pigtail for the round contact type pins. THERE IS MORE INVOLVED THAN JUST THAT PIGTAILED PLUG!
THE SWITCH IS ALSO DIFFERENT!! orich
MSRP: $76.40 / FTEpartsguy.com price: $41.26
This is a Ford replacement ignition switch to be used on all 1968/69 F100/350's and 1970 F100/350's before serial number G90,001.
The original switch used on these trucks (cars used them too) shorted out and caught FIRE!
There were NO US Gov't mandated safety recalls back then, it was up to the dealers to contact the owners to have this switch replaced (back then it was free).
The question is...how many were actually replaced?
IF the ignition switch on any 1968/69 or 1970 F100/350 before that serial number break DOES NOT have the pigtailed wire plug, it's the ORIGINAL switch.
#15
heres the link to the spesific app, Painless 14 Circuit F-Series Ford Truck Harness w/o Switches (1967 - 1977)