Got a question - can you get stainless line with butted ends and fittings on them that you can bend with a simple tool?
That's how I ran the trans lines for my old F100, since they had to be made up just for it.
Stainless fuel line comes in many sizes, and you can bend them to fit with a tool you should keep around anyway....
That tool in the states is about ten or so dollars.
The fittings on the ends are identical to brakeline fittings (TAPERED FLARE).
I've never worried about what I can make myself - it often works much better!
Measure the lines from end to end (LINES = PIPES) with a string, then measure the string with a tape rule. Don't ask me why, it just works better. Add a few cm for luck, then go find a length close to it.
Bending tube is not that hard to learn....
You may find that you want to run it in a completely different path than the original (for various reasons).
I have found transmission lines that went far too close to exhaust pipes, for example. You don't want that, as it is bad for the fluid.
Brake fluid especially should be protected from overheating - the last thing you want is your ability to stop degraded.
Brake fluid in its essence is nothing but hydraulic fluid in a refined grade. Heat can destroy its properties. It is also designed to absorb water and prevent damage internally. OLD
brake fluid can at times be so filled with absorbed water from condensation that it must be completely flushed out - as well it may contain a quantity of rubber particles from wear of the rubber
seals in the system. This gives it a black colour.
OLD
brake fluid, in fact, may contain so much water in it that if it is heated beyond the boiling point the water becomes steam in the lines and cause spongey
brakes (didn't realise that, did you?)
Another point here - if the capacity for the
brake fluid to absorb water is exceeded, water pooling can happen where you don't want it - rust can result in the calipers of disc brakes, and in shoe
brakes pitting commences in the slave cylinders. What happens in the first case is a stuck disc brake, that won't release and costs mileage and a new disc eventually. In the second case - pits in a cylinder result in
brake fluid all over the floor... Not to mention a bad
brake at one corner that wont work effectively! One way to avoid it is to bleed out the
brake system every so often. If the fluid that comes out looks bad....
IT IS!!!
STOPPING, STEERING, and MOVING (in order) are the three basics all vehicles rely on.
POWER STEERING fluid is very similar to
brake fluid.
BOTH can remove or loosen paint, and rust will result where they have spilled....
If it moves - STOPPING is more important than steering at times.
Steering comes next.
When you have that secure - lets see how fast it can go!
