New tires, now wheel oscillates when I brake
#1
New tires, now wheel oscillates when I brake
This is a new to me 2000 F-350 CC LB 7.3 4x4 with 169,000 miles. Things seem to be in tip top shape, except for some power steering pump whine. All stock except for a front add a leaf leveling kit. It had some large 315/75-16 tires on it that were almost done and they also rubbed the front springs badly when turning and limited the turning radius. So today I put on some 285/75-16 and viola, my turning radius is back, no rubbing, looks good and I got some new kicks. Then I go to stop and there some slight oscillating with the steering wheel that wasn't there before.
The ride is great, smoother and quieter so I love the tires. Before the truck pulled a little to the left; now there's no pulling, it tracks straight. I did not get an alignment done. Any ideas on why I'm getting this feedback through the wheel?
The ride is great, smoother and quieter so I love the tires. Before the truck pulled a little to the left; now there's no pulling, it tracks straight. I did not get an alignment done. Any ideas on why I'm getting this feedback through the wheel?
#5
#6
Sounds more like whoever did the tire swap cranked down on one of the front lug nuts too far too fast. As in, they tightened one down right away and didn't snug them all first.
This will cause the rotor to **** slightly and will definitely cause the steering wheel to oscillate.
Whenever I have tires put on a vehicle, I take it home and redo all the lug nut torques and then check it for a week or two after that.
I've had lug nuts get pretty loose just from driving around the first few days after a tire swap.
This will cause the rotor to **** slightly and will definitely cause the steering wheel to oscillate.
Whenever I have tires put on a vehicle, I take it home and redo all the lug nut torques and then check it for a week or two after that.
I've had lug nuts get pretty loose just from driving around the first few days after a tire swap.
#7
Sounds more like whoever did the tire swap cranked down on one of the front lug nuts too far too fast. As in, they tightened one down right away and didn't snug them all first.
This will cause the rotor to **** slightly and will definitely cause the steering wheel to oscillate.
Whenever I have tires put on a vehicle, I take it home and redo all the lug nut torques and then check it for a week or two after that.
I've had lug nuts get pretty loose just from driving around the first few days after a tire swap.
This will cause the rotor to **** slightly and will definitely cause the steering wheel to oscillate.
Whenever I have tires put on a vehicle, I take it home and redo all the lug nut torques and then check it for a week or two after that.
I've had lug nuts get pretty loose just from driving around the first few days after a tire swap.
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#8
I'll recheck them, but I watched the guy put them on lightly with the impact wrench, then use a torque wrench to tighten to spec. I was surprised to see he did that.
If the rotor was on crooked then the wheel would be on crooked and I'd feel it all the time. I'm not buying that. I could see how it would warp the rotors, but not within two blocks of driving. It only does it when I brake. I'll be checking for loose ball joints too.
If the rotor was on crooked then the wheel would be on crooked and I'd feel it all the time. I'm not buying that. I could see how it would warp the rotors, but not within two blocks of driving. It only does it when I brake. I'll be checking for loose ball joints too.
#9
Did he actually use the torque wrench to tighten the lugs, as in he made a turn or two with the wrench? A lot of the time they will tighten the lugs and then just stick the torque wrench on and make sure it clicks. This only tells them that they are at or over the proper torque spec.
Did he tighten them one at a time all the way or did he tighten one most of the way, then go to another, then another, then eventually go back over them all again torquing to spec? Did he do a star pattern or just go around in a circle?
Many of these things can cause the rotor to warp immediatly.
Did he tighten them one at a time all the way or did he tighten one most of the way, then go to another, then another, then eventually go back over them all again torquing to spec? Did he do a star pattern or just go around in a circle?
Many of these things can cause the rotor to warp immediatly.
#10
He used the torque wrench to tighten the lugs. He had to crank on the torque wrench 3-4 times to get the click. He went in a star pattern, then went around in a circle to double check. Like I said, first time I've ever seen a tire monkey do that, I was impressed and will be using that place in the future.
#11
Well today I went out and checked the ball joints and steering gear. All is tight thankfully. I decided that I should check the tire pressures, I hadn't done it after the install because I assumed the tire changer did since he took such great care to properly torque the lug nuts. I was wrong. One front tire had 33psi and the other had 53. I bumped them both up to 55 per the door sticker and the oscillating is gone. I wouldn't think a 20# difference in tire pressure would be a problem, but apparently it was for me. I can tell that the rotors are slightly warped though. Not bad, but I can tell. Maybe the new tires and the uneven pressures magnified that a bit.
#13