Great progress. I feel your pain on the rivets. I only removed 30 though. Being lazy and having a little money to burn I let someone else sandblast and powder coat my frame and running gear.
Ya those rivets were a pita to get out, alot of work but the air hammer made it so much easier than beating on them with a hammer. Anyone looking to take some rivets out I advise you to invest in an air hammer. Their cheap and do a heck of a job. Thanks for the comments.
Make sure you use malleable bolts to put that frame all back together. Standard grade eights are not recommended for in shear application like an entire frame as they will easily shear off when stressed laterally. The rivets as placed stock allow the frame to flex which all torqued bolts will not.
Garbz
Garbz,
What do you consider to be 'malleable bolts'?
I'm guessing grade 5 bolts would be more "malleable" than grade 8......
BarnieTrk
The paint for my frame came today and just like the epoxy primer it only took 2 business days to ship. Hope everything else I order only takes this long lol. I should be ordering my paint gun and primer gun hopefully sometime this week as well.
I use a siphon feed sandblaster. Its doing a pretty good job so far. I got most of the hard stuff sandblasted. I just use regular sand from the local hardware store. I have read about the dangers of using silica sand without a respirator which is why I use one, but there are still risks even with a regular respirator. I will be getting a fresh air respirator hopefully within the next 2 weeks and I wont be sandblasting until then anyways.
What brand is the siphon feed? I am thinking of getting one and there seems to be a huge price difference between the cheap ones and the American ones. If I can get it done with a cheap one, I might go that way.
It's a matco siphon feed blaster. Im not sure how much or how old it is. It was my brother-in-law's and im borrowing it from him. One thing that sucks about it is finding the tips for it as they wear out pretty fast. But it does the job and im thankful to have a sandblaster that I can borrow.
Here's the same kind of gun end which I recommend you to avoid. http://cgi.ebay.com/Air-Sand-Blaster...3A1%7C294%3A50
If you are going to buy a siphon feed definitely buy one with a DeadMan Valve gun end because there are a ton of replacement parts for them and the tips are easy to find.
Try to buy one of these kind of sandblasting gun ends. You wont be disappointed. http://cgi.ebay.com/Sandblaster-Nozz...3A2%7C294%3A50
Any other questions feel free to ask. Im happy to help.
If you are going to buy a siphon feed definitely buy one with a DeadMan Valve gun end because there are a ton of replacement parts for them and the tips are easy to find.
Try to buy one of these kind of sandblasting gun ends. You wont be disappointed. http://cgi.ebay.com/Sandblaster-Nozz...3A2%7C294%3A50
Any other questions feel free to ask. Im happy to help.
HF occasionally will have a sale on the same deadman valve for around $10 and acquired 3-4 extra. The issue I find with the 'Deadman Valve' is the stopper tends to wear down at a fairly fast rate and I have not found a replacement that works, and once it can no longer seal the nozzle it constantly sprays media making a mess. May also check out TP tools for sand blaster replacement parts, particularly if you have a cabinet.
Looking forward to see how the paint job comes out> A first time 'do it my selfer' and used both Kirker, and Southernpolyurethane products and really like how they layed down.
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'problem with engaging in useless activity is never knowing when your done'
HF occasionally will have a sale on the same deadman valve for around $10 and acquired 3-4 extra. The issue I find with the 'Deadman Valve' is the stopper tends to wear down at a fairly fast rate and I have not found a replacement that works, and once it can no longer seal the nozzle it constantly sprays media making a mess. May also check out TP tools for sand blaster replacement parts, particularly if you have a cabinet.
Looking forward to see how the paint job comes out> A first time 'do it my selfer' and used both Kirker, and Southernpolyurethane products and really like how they layed down.
Im hoping to have some painted parts within the next 3 weeks once my paint guns and respirator come in. Ive read good reviews about SPI and hear their the best when it comes to primer, cant wait to try them out. I'll be sure to post lots of pics.
What color do you plan on painting it? Are you going to go back to the original color? I just painted my 65 and except for a few runs (CHEAP PAINT) I will never do that again, it turned out pretty good. I still need to detail the engine compartment (Firewall and Inner Fenders) but its really coming along. Your truck is really coming along, Keep posting the pictures.
What color do you plan on painting it? Are you going to go back to the original color? I just painted my 65 and except for a few runs (CHEAP PAINT) I will never do that again, it turned out pretty good. I still need to detail the engine compartment (Firewall and Inner Fenders) but its really coming along. Your truck is really coming along, Keep posting the pictures.
JRB65
Im not sure on the color yet. I got a few paint schemes im playing with but I have plenty of time to figure it out. Your truck is looking good, looks very clean. I will most likely be using Base Coat/ Clearcoat. Those cheaper paints tend to be tougher to spray unless you've sprayed a few cars before. BC/CC is much easier to spray I think and you can fix your mistakes much easier as well. Goodluck with your truck its looking good.
Base coat/Clear coat is a very good system. My suggestion is to double up on the clear coat to aid in color sanding to help bring out the deep shine and take down the orange peal.
I have in the past put on three coats of color and six coats of clear, color sanding after the third clear coat, then applying three more clear coats after that; finish with a final wet sand of 2,000 or 2,500 to bring out the deep shine.
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'65 Custom Cab/Camper Special Two Tone Blue & White, 390 CID, C-6, Headers, Edlebrock Intake & 4 BBL, Flowmaster Dual Exhaust.
Base coat/Clear coat is a very good system. My suggestion is to double up on the clear coat to aid in color sanding to help bring out the deep shine and take down the orange peal.
I have in the past put on three coats of color and six coats of clear, color sanding after the third clear coat, then applying three more clear coats after that; finish with a final wet sand of 2,000 or 2,500 to bring out the deep shine.
Ya thats pretty close to what I had planned on doing. Somewhere between 4-6 coats. It cost a little bit more to put that much clear on but the results are unbeatable when it comes to the shine and gloss. Thanks for the advice.
Got some parts from Summit today. Only took 2 days to ship! I couldnt believe it.
Here's the DJM drop shackles to lower the rear between 3-5 inches.
The Drop Beams from DJM. I dont care for the powder coating on these things at all. Already had a small piece just flake off because it had a rough edge on it. May consider having these sandblasted and then paint them myself. Not sure though yet.
The front sway bar from Addco.
Thats all I got for now. Cant wait till I can start putting this stuff together.
Got some parts from Summit today. Only took 2 days to ship! I couldnt believe it.
Here's the DJM drop shackles to lower the rear between 3-5 inches.
The Drop Beams from DJM. I dont care for the powder coating on these things at all. Already had a small piece just flake off because it had a rough edge on it. May consider having these sandblasted and then paint them myself. Not sure though yet.
The front sway bar from Addco.
Thats all I got for now. Cant wait till I can start putting this stuff together.
I had a set of DJM's and simply sent them back as they were pretty much junk. Double check your king pin hole as mine had .050" + slop in them, caster was different from side to side and they were not welded together straight. Lay them side by side and look at yours. Also the powdercoating as you say did not look good, were completely chipped up and not bonded to the beam.
Very litle caster built in. Not to mention the junk tie rod drop pieces.
AIM had a much nicer piece. ALso the drop advertised on the DJM's is BS.
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A first time 'do it my selfer' and used both Kirker, and Southernpolyurethane products and really like how they layed down.
