Got all the 50+ rivets out of the frame and all the cross members, cab mounts, etc taken out of the frame. I left one cross member intact to help keep the frame more rigid. I will remove it once I get the other cross members bolted back in. Used in a air hammer and chiseled the heads off then hammered the rivets the rest of the way through. Had to use a grinder on most of them after the heads were popped off. Alotta work getting them off but it will be worth it knowing every aspect of this frame was sandblasted of all its rust and restored.
Here's my disc brakes for my truck, these are off of a 74 F100 and are a bolt on upgrade to my truck over the drums on the front. Also some pics of the bed after it got sandblasted and one coat of epoxy on it to keep it from rusting until I get started on bodywork.
This is the only rust damage on this bed. Shouldn't be too hard to repair.
This is where im at now. Sandblasting the frame and misc parts which is very time consuming. Just gotta keep choppin wood. Will have some more progress updates soon.
Here's a little info about myself and about my plans with this truck. Im 21 years old and I have two years of auto body class from high school so I know the basics of auto body. I work 30+ plus hours a week, go to college, and a girlfriend of two years so time to work on my truck is sporadic at best but I do try to make time for it atleast twice a week. I plan on swapping in a 5.0 engine from an 89-92 mustang along with the efi setup. I will be installing an 85-90 Bronco II gas tank under the bed. I will also be installing an AOD trans for better fuel economy. I plan on installing drop I-Beams from DJM and also the rear shackle drop they make as well. I also would like to install front and rear sway bars. I will be posting as much step by step progress as I can and any questions or comments you guys might have feel free to let me know.
Make sure you use malleable bolts to put that frame all back together. Standard grade eights are not recommended for in shear application like an entire frame as they will easily shear off when stressed laterally. The rivets as placed stock allow the frame to flex which all torqued bolts will not.
Garbz
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64 F100 "Christine" 472 EFI C6 and mean
63 F100 Uni Custom under construction 4" off the pavement and built to drive 410, C6.
69 F250 Crew Hiboy 360 435. Driver.
05 Escape XLT
Sorry for the late reply; been lazy & bust at the same time. But I got just under 3K in engine alone and only installed a new torgue converter and basic trans stuff like filter & modulator vlave. So trans is close to stock. If I had the chance and do if all over I would of kept the engine mod's to stock level and built a 352 instead, but the 302 run's excellent, and I get alot of compliments; but at 93 octane its can hurt the wallet!!!
Your progress is going well and looking forward to seeing more accomplished. Keep up the good work.
Make sure you use malleable bolts to put that frame all back together. Standard grade eights are not recommended for in shear application like an entire frame as they will easily shear off when stressed laterally. The rivets as placed stock allow the frame to flex which all torqued bolts will not.
Garbz
I'll have to check into that. Thanks for the advice.
Sorry for the late reply; been lazy & bust at the same time. But I got just under 3K in engine alone and only installed a new torgue converter and basic trans stuff like filter & modulator vlave. So trans is close to stock. If I had the chance and do if all over I would of kept the engine mod's to stock level and built a 352 instead, but the 302 run's excellent, and I get alot of compliments; but at 93 octane its can hurt the wallet!!!
Your progress is going well and looking forward to seeing more accomplished. Keep up the good work.
Mitch
Lol better late then never jk. Yea I figured it would probally be around 3k to rebuild a 302 but thats not bad because ive seen how reliable these engines are with just regular maintence so it would be a good envestment if I did. If I find a good running 5.0 with decent mileage I will wait to rebuild and move on to the rest of the truck. Thanks for the reply.
My epoxy primer came today and it only took 2 days to ship. I ordered the paint today so hopefully, weather permitting, within the next 2 weeks I will have some parts painted. I cant wait to see some color on some of these parts instead of rust, grease, and dirt lol.
Great progress. I feel your pain on the rivets. I only removed 30 though. Being lazy and having a little money to burn I let someone else sandblast and powder coat my frame and running gear.
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1966 F-100 Custom Cab (work in progress)
351 Cleveland 4V (DOAE-J) *No its not a 351M**
C4 trans, 4.11 trac loc
Ground up resto. Ground is done, ran out of money for the up.
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