Help me with my Clevor / Boss clone recipe
#1
Help me with my Clevor / Boss clone recipe
Block: Ford Racing Boss 302 block (on order)
Heads: Aussie 2V closed chamber, mild port and polish (already have)
Intake: Edlebrock E-Boss 302 (already have)
Roller Rockers: Crane Stainless Steel 1.7:1 (already have)
Valves: Manley Stainless undercut race-flow (getting ready to order)
crank: ?????? (stock 302 stroke)
rods: ?????? (289 HiPo specs)
pistons: ?????? (.030 overbore with cleveland valve reliefs, boss 302 specs)
cam: ?????? (7000 - 7500 rpm range)
carb: Holley 670 Street Avenger (possibly)
Fill in the blanks with suggestions, I am open to any ideas.
Its going in a 3200lb 67 Mercury Cougar hardtop.
Heads: Aussie 2V closed chamber, mild port and polish (already have)
Intake: Edlebrock E-Boss 302 (already have)
Roller Rockers: Crane Stainless Steel 1.7:1 (already have)
Valves: Manley Stainless undercut race-flow (getting ready to order)
crank: ?????? (stock 302 stroke)
rods: ?????? (289 HiPo specs)
pistons: ?????? (.030 overbore with cleveland valve reliefs, boss 302 specs)
cam: ?????? (7000 - 7500 rpm range)
carb: Holley 670 Street Avenger (possibly)
Fill in the blanks with suggestions, I am open to any ideas.
Its going in a 3200lb 67 Mercury Cougar hardtop.
#3
#4
Your choice of heads is not true to a Boss 302, but for the street they will be a much better choice. The Boss 302 was known for having too much head. It made the engine way to peaky to be comfortably driven on the street.
The heads that you chose, if cammed accordingly will be a much better street/strip combination. I personally would not go past about 224 degrees duration @ .050, but if the car is geared with 3.90's like the original Boss's, you could go a little stronger, but not much. The key is in the combination, and too much cam with those heads could ruin the combination.
I think that the rotating assembly should be all forged for this purpose. All of these parts will be readily available. There are some pretty good deals on 302 rotating assemblies, but they will not have the Cleveland valve reliefs. I would find the best deal on a forged crank of which you will have many choices. Since the rod is by far the most highly stressed piece I think your application calls for an I-Beam rod.
I think the 670 will be enough for this combination. The most common thing to see is over carbing, but in your case, this might be on the edge. The 670 would make it more responsive on the street, but MIGHT limit the top a little. If it were me, I would go with it because I tend to keep the RPM's a little slower than most people. That's what I like about your build. Personally I believe that you are looking at an engine that will be peaking at about 5,000 RPM, meaning that 6500 would be a good shift point. That is totally a guess.
I'll look into more details when I'm home. Sounds like a really fun build.
The heads that you chose, if cammed accordingly will be a much better street/strip combination. I personally would not go past about 224 degrees duration @ .050, but if the car is geared with 3.90's like the original Boss's, you could go a little stronger, but not much. The key is in the combination, and too much cam with those heads could ruin the combination.
I think that the rotating assembly should be all forged for this purpose. All of these parts will be readily available. There are some pretty good deals on 302 rotating assemblies, but they will not have the Cleveland valve reliefs. I would find the best deal on a forged crank of which you will have many choices. Since the rod is by far the most highly stressed piece I think your application calls for an I-Beam rod.
I think the 670 will be enough for this combination. The most common thing to see is over carbing, but in your case, this might be on the edge. The 670 would make it more responsive on the street, but MIGHT limit the top a little. If it were me, I would go with it because I tend to keep the RPM's a little slower than most people. That's what I like about your build. Personally I believe that you are looking at an engine that will be peaking at about 5,000 RPM, meaning that 6500 would be a good shift point. That is totally a guess.
I'll look into more details when I'm home. Sounds like a really fun build.
#5
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#8
First of all, a short introduction before digging up old dirt.
My name is Niels, I live in Holland and i'm currently building a 302 Clevor for my 1970 Mustang.
Thats also the reason for replying to an 4 year old topic.
I was wondering what became of this project... if there are pics available, or even a video from this build.
You might be able to answer a few questions that I have.
Thanks so far,
Niels
My name is Niels, I live in Holland and i'm currently building a 302 Clevor for my 1970 Mustang.
Thats also the reason for replying to an 4 year old topic.
I was wondering what became of this project... if there are pics available, or even a video from this build.
You might be able to answer a few questions that I have.
Thanks so far,
Niels
#9
First of all, a short introduction before digging up old dirt.
My name is Niels, I live in Holland and i'm currently building a 302 Clevor for my 1970 Mustang.
Thats also the reason for replying to an 4 year old topic.
I was wondering what became of this project... if there are pics available, or even a video from this build.
You might be able to answer a few questions that I have.
Thanks so far,
Niels
My name is Niels, I live in Holland and i'm currently building a 302 Clevor for my 1970 Mustang.
Thats also the reason for replying to an 4 year old topic.
I was wondering what became of this project... if there are pics available, or even a video from this build.
You might be able to answer a few questions that I have.
Thanks so far,
Niels
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