por-15 is a moisture activated paint that sucks the h2o outa the rust thus taking away 1 of the 3 things needed for rust to form. I used it on my truck and I think its great... If I remember correctly I wire brushed ( 8'' wire wheel on my grinder) then de-greased (I used there marine clean, great product!) then used metal-ready( removes loose rust and etches bare metal), hose off and let air dry. the surface has to be dry! and you cannot let any moisture into the can of paint. If you let even a drop of sweat fall into the can it's ruined. I used it on my frame, put on by brush and man what a difference. They say you should paint over it if it's going to get direct sunlight( I didn't)... although sun wont hurt it it will cause it to fade. no I'm not a spokesperson for por-15 I just really liked it. google por-15 and youl find the procedure to use it properly. and good luck!

P.S. ware gloves and some clothe you don't care for... this stuff is impossible to get off of skin
have a look in my galery and you can see what it looks like...think is under front clip install

 

I know Eastwood has a rust encapsulator that they sell. I'm trying to decide what/how I'm going to do the frame on my 67. I'm going to sandblast it, I'm wondering if I should use something like POR-15, after I sandblast, and then paint over that.

 

Hi the way I did my frame allmost 6 years ago was to sand blast put cheap primer on it then put osfo on it then por 15. It has held up fantastically. Hard as a rock no rust anywhere. Chuck

 

ya that might work... if you go to the por-15 web site they say the only way it can inhibit rust is if it's in direct contact with the metal

 

Well, if you want to try out POR 15 like I did. . .order there "Super Starter Kit" which includes samples of there complete system. It also has gloves, instructions, and brushes. It's like $20 and covers 12 square. The stuff is water thin, and a little goes a long way. I did 2 coats on my dana 60 front axle housing with the first kit and had to toss 1/4 of the can. Second kit did everything else (knuckles, caliper brackets, diff cover, hubs, etc.) and I have 3/4 of the can in the fridge for later use


So far, I'm impressed with it's application and set up. The finish is rock hard as claimed. Top coating is a pain. The axle I left black, but the other parts I want to paint and it has taken a bit of priming (via the instructions) and more sanding and prep work than I would normally do

I should also note that I performed the same basic prep work on my '78 truck frame/axles/springs. I power washed, treated with some cheap "Ospho" knock off, and then 2 coats of inexpensive Sherwin Williams Industrial Enamel. So far it's held up sitting outside in the yard for 3 years with no more rust Except where I couldn't reach with paint

 

I've used P-15 for years with good results. Just for kicks I dabbed some on a rusty valve cover with no prep. It's been sitting outside for 6 yrs or so and has faded but no rust showing through. A hint for painting over Por-15: BEFORE it dries and is still tacky spray primer over the surface. This way you can put on ant color you want without a whole lot of prep. The rust protection is still there.

 

POR-15 is da bomb - just make sure you follow directions and apply it on clean, P-A treated metal.

 

POR 15 is the best...I used the stuff from Eastwood once...forget about it...it sucked. As far as top coating POR, as long as you prime over the POR when its still tacky yet, then topcoating wont be a problem. Once you wait for it to dry, then your gonna have some work ahead of you.

 

Based on the reviews I've read about the product, I could guess that it's quite good. Though, personally, I haven't tried it myself.

 

One more thing on por15's instructions. When they say use in a well ventilated area, they mean it. The fumes are terrible. I use my charcoal resperator when I apply it.

 

well POR-15 works the BEST out of ANYTHING! i used it on my truck and didnt even prep the metal or anything and you can hit it with a hammer and it wont chip off! I HIGHLY recommend it!

 

A while back I tried POR-15 on a ship deck to seal some rust after chipping all loose rust off that was possible. It was then topcoated and a year later rust was coming back through. Enough with POR-15. Now rust is chipped, or wire brushed, or both before being coated with a rust converter (I use Eastwood), next top coated with rust encapsulator and then the color coat of haze or deck gray. No rust has ever come back after this treatment and it is the only way I ever go now especially in a marine enviroment. Naturally it is used that way on cars if need be although my California cars have little in the way of rust to begin with.

 

sounds like you didn't use it properly...

 

Oh, it was done by the book as it was one of their starter kits that had everything you needed to do a small area. What was left was taken to the toxic waste recycle center. The Eastwood combo has been going on 3 years and no rust in the areas treated. I much rather convert the rust instead of just sealing it over and waiting to see if it holds up for 10 years at a minmum. That includes being able to stand up to standing water over the rainy season before drying out.

 

These ecapsulating paints work by (sealing out oxygen) and all them work--but at different levels.
I use por15---but prefer EPOXY for most panels and whole vehicles.
CHASSIS-SAVER is another ecapsulating paint and is cheaper than the others.
It works very well--and if you use a sponge brush --no brush marks. I use a hvlp harbor freight paint gun.15.00 dollars.
RUST NEVER SLEEPS......and we can only slow it down or cut it out or remove it!!
I sandblast/epoxy/high build primer/paint/clear/and only por15 small areas or floor boards.
Bill