Dynatrac
#1
#4
Hands down the best money you can spend on a SD. Getting rid of the unit bearings and the ESOF lockouts (if equiped, or even if it is not) is worth its weight in gold.
First maintenance when you can service the bearings really puts a smile on your face.
Seems like a bunch of money at first, but is really worth it in the end.
Great investment.
First maintenance when you can service the bearings really puts a smile on your face.
Seems like a bunch of money at first, but is really worth it in the end.
Great investment.
#7
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#9
#10
The only part that is wider is the hubs. They will stick out approx. 2". If you have aftermarket wheel that are 9-10" wide no problem. I have run the Dynatrac freespin kit with my stock wheels for the last 20,000 miles. The wheels and tires are in the same place in the wheel well as the stock set-up.
#11
Due to a right front wheel bearing failure in October '08, I faced a similar decision. I went with the Dynatrac Free Spin System. I went all out and got their DynaLoc hubs, changed out my upper & lower ball joints since I was in there, and replaced my rotors & brakes with Powerslot Cyro Rotors & Hawk LTS pads.
I really believe I can tell the difference in the ride; the original bearing was so bad I had metal shavings everywhere on the inside of the hub unit. The left side was smooth and "felt solid", the right side was loose and sloppy and made a nice metal grinding sound.
Just like it's been said on FTE previous, when the bearing went bad, it went fast. Probably was going out for a couple weeks before it got bad enough for me to hear it over my 7.3
If you can afford it, go for the Free Spin; I got mine directly from Dynatrac. The OEM bearings are sealed and cost approximately $375 a piece. V/r Les
I really believe I can tell the difference in the ride; the original bearing was so bad I had metal shavings everywhere on the inside of the hub unit. The left side was smooth and "felt solid", the right side was loose and sloppy and made a nice metal grinding sound.
Just like it's been said on FTE previous, when the bearing went bad, it went fast. Probably was going out for a couple weeks before it got bad enough for me to hear it over my 7.3
If you can afford it, go for the Free Spin; I got mine directly from Dynatrac. The OEM bearings are sealed and cost approximately $375 a piece. V/r Les
#12
Due to a right front wheel bearing failure in October '08, I faced a similar decision. I went with the Dynatrac Free Spin System. I went all out and got their DynaLoc hubs, changed out my upper & lower ball joints since I was in there, and replaced my rotors & brakes with Powerslot Cyro Rotors & Hawk LTS pads.
I really believe I can tell the difference in the ride; the original bearing was so bad I had metal shavings everywhere on the inside of the hub unit. The left side was smooth and "felt solid", the right side was loose and sloppy and made a nice metal grinding sound.
Just like it's been said on FTE previous, when the bearing went bad, it went fast. Probably was going out for a couple weeks before it got bad enough for me to hear it over my 7.3
If you can afford it, go for the Free Spin; I got mine directly from Dynatrac. The OEM bearings are sealed and cost approximately $375 a piece. V/r Les
I really believe I can tell the difference in the ride; the original bearing was so bad I had metal shavings everywhere on the inside of the hub unit. The left side was smooth and "felt solid", the right side was loose and sloppy and made a nice metal grinding sound.
Just like it's been said on FTE previous, when the bearing went bad, it went fast. Probably was going out for a couple weeks before it got bad enough for me to hear it over my 7.3
If you can afford it, go for the Free Spin; I got mine directly from Dynatrac. The OEM bearings are sealed and cost approximately $375 a piece. V/r Les
#13
#14
P.S. Wheel studs come with the kit, but I got new hub assembly studs instead of removing the old and reuses them. Les
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