I have a 1988 ford F350 with a 7.5 liter V8. The distributor is frozen and I can't get it out. Just need some help in getting this one out so I can replace it with a new one. While trying to get it out, I damaged the base where the hold down clamp sets at. I'm ok with that, I just want to get this one out.
I am soaking it right now and waiting for some help.

 

Likely there is varnish on the underside of the distributor base from years of oil splash. Soaking is a good thing to do, but you can also use a crowbar to apply upward pressure to the 'cup', leveraging on a 2x4 or other piece of wood, while at the same time, rotating the distributor body back and forth. Take your time if you plan on re-using the distributor.
tom

 

must be a common thing, I have an 89 w/460 and the distributor will not budge. I wanted to advance my timing but it is stuck at 10 degrees.

 

What are you soaking it with? I have found that PB Blaster is very good for this sort of thing. After the soak, get a large pair of water pump pliers and try twisting the dist. or a strap wrench will also work. I go to a couple of big pry bars last.

 

yes I am using PB Blaster tho soak the distributor, I am going to try again Thursday.
One thing? Some of my friends tell me that I don't have to change the pick up coil, just
change the module. I know that ford said that you should change both of them together. Have anyone had luck in just changing the module and not the coil?

 

It's a crap shoot. I've seen just changing the box or sensor and it works fine, then I've seen just changing one or the other component and the old part fries the new one.

 

Most times I've had the windings in the pickup coil open up. It is a passive device, and unless they short to ground, they can hardly fry the module, but I guess you takes your chances..
tom

 

A 20+ year Ford truck mechanic friend of mine ruined my original distributor trying to get it out the first time the setting was changed (13 yrs old, 38,000 miles). Even using never-sieze afterwords doesn't seem to make that much difference over time. They just sort of settle in and DON'T want to move.

Soak it hot, soak it cold ... I like a penetrant called Deep Creep ... tap the dist. and/or the manifold before, after, during application and while trying to turn it/lift it; cool the dist/heat the mainfold; curse it, talk to it, pray over it.

Note I said "tap" ... you want to introduce vibrations, not dents!

Good luck with it.

 

He is replacing the dist. I would suspect denting or even breaking it is not gonna bother him a whole lot.

 

Funny thing about my reply is
I was under the impression jadmt just wanted to advance his distributor, not replace it .....

 

Missed that, sorry for the misinterpretation.

 

I figured that was what happened .... just giving you some crap.

 

Not a problem. If I was perfect, I sure wouldn't need to be here.

 

Its not varnish that makes the dizzy sticky. Its the aluminum housing that corrodes and basically fuses with the cast iron block. I havent tried it but Ive heard packing dry ice around the dizzy base will loosen it up. Aluminum will shrink more than the cast iron and along with some penetrating oil it should come out with a little effort.

 

Kicks, you live in NB. Everything old there is coated with salt in the winter... Heh.
Having lived in MA, IN, and CO, I have yet to see one corroded in place, though it probably has happened. The ones I've seen have all been held by varnish. The one in a 292 had been untouched from the factory for 4 years, and I used a crowbar to turn it to set the timing. I don't remember if it had corrosion, but it had seen winters in IL, MA, and IN before it got its first set of replacement points. Maintenance was not my Dad's strong suit. He sure was surprised when all our cars started so quickly after I learned a bit about mechanic-ing.
tom