NEW MEMBER Introduction Thread (NO TECH QUESTIONS)
Long Time Reader, First Time Member
Heyo,
I have a 1993 F-150 XLT, 5.0L 302 CL FI, E4OD, with 8ft bed. I've been working on mechanically restoring it for the better part of a year. "New" Junkyard rebuilt transmission, new leveling springs on the front, with need suspension components. Hoping to make it into a really nice work truck for myself. I enjoy working on it, but I also get frustrated at the 23 years of rust that holds it together.... or rather... makes it fall apart... I hope to learn a lot through posting and reading on the forums.
-Blue
I have a 1993 F-150 XLT, 5.0L 302 CL FI, E4OD, with 8ft bed. I've been working on mechanically restoring it for the better part of a year. "New" Junkyard rebuilt transmission, new leveling springs on the front, with need suspension components. Hoping to make it into a really nice work truck for myself. I enjoy working on it, but I also get frustrated at the 23 years of rust that holds it together.... or rather... makes it fall apart... I hope to learn a lot through posting and reading on the forums.
-Blue
Hi . I just started my account today . I have a 1994 ford bronco and I work on my truck myself a lot
[QUOTE=Krewat;6700369]Hello all NEW users!
I've noticed a lot of new people posting in the OASIS request thread, and while I want to welcome each and every one of you to FTE, I don't want to do it in that thread.
So, WELCOME to FTE!
Whether or not you've recently joined or been lurking for years, POST HERE and introduce yourself!
Everyone else, feel free to post up and welcome our newest members, and be sure to bump the thread every day or two to keep it fresh in everyone's memory.
Also, it will help to notify anyone who subscribes to this thread that another new member has joined up.
Let the party begin! Remember to post specifics about your truck, make a gallery with pics and have some fun!
[/QU
I've noticed a lot of new people posting in the OASIS request thread, and while I want to welcome each and every one of you to FTE, I don't want to do it in that thread.
So, WELCOME to FTE!
Whether or not you've recently joined or been lurking for years, POST HERE and introduce yourself!
Everyone else, feel free to post up and welcome our newest members, and be sure to bump the thread every day or two to keep it fresh in everyone's memory.
Also, it will help to notify anyone who subscribes to this thread that another new member has joined up.
Let the party begin! Remember to post specifics about your truck, make a gallery with pics and have some fun!
[/QU
Long time lurker, first day posting.
I was one of the original owners of a 2003 6.0L, I sold it at 98,000 only 2,000 miles prior to the motor warranty expiring - a really bad experience.
My current mule is a 2004 F250 ExtraCab LB 6.0L 4x4 with the ZF6 and lots of scuffs, 220k and now running strong. It had a bad EPS upon purchase, replaced with new one from the Dealership and the turbo came to life.
Unfortunately I replaced the t-stat and topped off the coolant with Ford Gold, not realizing that what was there previously was unknown. Since, I have flushed the coolant system with Cascade Professional and Fleetguard Restore - now my temperature differences between EOT and ECT is within 2 degrees driving up hill, 4 degrees on flat ground, 10 degrees driving downhill - very pleased.
This past weekend I updated the FICM with the PHP Atlas Economy, then the Atlas 40. Given the ZF6, the PHP has a flutter on the Atlas tunes at about 1750 that is noticeable but not irritating. All good.
Thanks for all contributions, I've learned tons about my motor and I'm not afraid to diagnose and fix myself.
Copper.Farm
I was one of the original owners of a 2003 6.0L, I sold it at 98,000 only 2,000 miles prior to the motor warranty expiring - a really bad experience.
My current mule is a 2004 F250 ExtraCab LB 6.0L 4x4 with the ZF6 and lots of scuffs, 220k and now running strong. It had a bad EPS upon purchase, replaced with new one from the Dealership and the turbo came to life.
Unfortunately I replaced the t-stat and topped off the coolant with Ford Gold, not realizing that what was there previously was unknown. Since, I have flushed the coolant system with Cascade Professional and Fleetguard Restore - now my temperature differences between EOT and ECT is within 2 degrees driving up hill, 4 degrees on flat ground, 10 degrees driving downhill - very pleased.
This past weekend I updated the FICM with the PHP Atlas Economy, then the Atlas 40. Given the ZF6, the PHP has a flutter on the Atlas tunes at about 1750 that is noticeable but not irritating. All good.
Thanks for all contributions, I've learned tons about my motor and I'm not afraid to diagnose and fix myself.
Copper.Farm
New guy in Ohio, with a 51 F1 project
Hello, I'm new here and have a lot to learn. I've been restoring classic cars since I was 11 years old, and I'm 43 now. I've managed to keep them all, including my first car, a 1969 Camaro. While I have amassed quite a collection of mostly Bow ties, I have restored and worked on numerous classics, including Ford, Buick, Oldsmobile, and Cadillac.
I recently picked up a 1951 Ford F1, (Deluxe or 5 star model?) with a flathead V8. It's all original, with the exception of the wheels, and it has 1968 Camaro bucket seats. I have no idea why. They will go away in short order. The truck has 63,000 original miles. The best part: it was cheap. REALLY cheap.
The truck drove itself to where it is in the photo, approximately 13 years ago. A new battery and a set of points for $3.70 and it was running. I did rebuild the carburetor, replace the plugs and wires after I had it going. Sounds pretty good. Holds good oil pressure and idles well. The radiator does show a pinhole leak at operating temps.
The front fenders and lower valance are rusty. As well as small holes in the rear fenders. Other than that, it's really very solid. No rust in the cab at all. The running boards are missing and were replaced with wood decades ago. They have rotted off. I'll need a set of them.
I also managed to find a set of fiberglass front fender molds. I will either repair the rusty fenders or cast my own set out of fiberglass. That's going to be challenging. I have no experience there.
The truck is a perfect candidate for an original restoration. It's too original to clip or change. I will likely go that route, if I keep it.
I'll be lurking here and learning over the next months. I also bought a 1947 Ford Coupe from the same seller. I'm really excited about it as well. It's a real vintage 60s hot rod. Flamed paint. Cragar star wires. Chevy 283, auto and 10 bolt. Chevelle buckets. I already have a power disc brake kit to go on it.
Nice to meet you fellow builders. I'm happy to be here.
Jason
I recently picked up a 1951 Ford F1, (Deluxe or 5 star model?) with a flathead V8. It's all original, with the exception of the wheels, and it has 1968 Camaro bucket seats. I have no idea why. They will go away in short order. The truck has 63,000 original miles. The best part: it was cheap. REALLY cheap.
The truck drove itself to where it is in the photo, approximately 13 years ago. A new battery and a set of points for $3.70 and it was running. I did rebuild the carburetor, replace the plugs and wires after I had it going. Sounds pretty good. Holds good oil pressure and idles well. The radiator does show a pinhole leak at operating temps.
The front fenders and lower valance are rusty. As well as small holes in the rear fenders. Other than that, it's really very solid. No rust in the cab at all. The running boards are missing and were replaced with wood decades ago. They have rotted off. I'll need a set of them.
I also managed to find a set of fiberglass front fender molds. I will either repair the rusty fenders or cast my own set out of fiberglass. That's going to be challenging. I have no experience there.
The truck is a perfect candidate for an original restoration. It's too original to clip or change. I will likely go that route, if I keep it.
I'll be lurking here and learning over the next months. I also bought a 1947 Ford Coupe from the same seller. I'm really excited about it as well. It's a real vintage 60s hot rod. Flamed paint. Cragar star wires. Chevy 283, auto and 10 bolt. Chevelle buckets. I already have a power disc brake kit to go on it.
Nice to meet you fellow builders. I'm happy to be here.
Jason
Another newby here hoping to tap into the knowledge base of this forum. I'm about to start a small utility construction company and need to tow a couple small excavators and possibly a horizontal boring machine weighing between 4K - 8K lbs. It will be mostly short trips in the 5-25 mile range. After a bunch of reading and checking out my local truck market I decided to go with a couple of super duties with the V-10's instead of the diesels due to the short length of my trips. Trying to keep my start up capital in check, and I've had a few months before retiring from my current job so I purchased a couple of lightly damaged Insurance Auctions vehicles and am making the body repairs.
First truck is a 2004 F550 regular cab V-10 with 114K miles. Had a box bed and someone tried to drive it under something that didn't fit. Only damaged the box which I cut down into a flat bed. Drove it to TN from New Orleans and noticed it missing a bit. Scanner revealed a bad coil pack on #8 which I replaced. Recently its started missing a bit again so I'm considering replacing all the coil packs instead of one at a time? Haven't scanned it again but I assume another coil has gone bad?
Second truck is a 2000 V-10 F250 super cab with 6.5' bed and 150K miles that had hit something on the passenger edge of the front bumper damaging the hood, fender, head light assembly, header, and grill. Neanderthals at the Insurance yard broke the steering box shaft with their monster fork lifts. Found all the body donor parts locally at a great price. Installed a rebuilt steering box and have removed the damaged body parts. To my surprise, the front frame horns are bent a bit sideways by the lick on the outside edge of the bumper. Currently devising a way to secure the truck and pull those frame horns back close to straight so the bumper will bolt up correctly. The bumper holes are slotted so there is a margin of error to work with.
Haven't been able to find any measurements / specs on the front of the 2000 F250 frame - anyone here have that info? If no, then does anyone have a photo from the front with the bumper and grill removed? Thanks in advance!
First truck is a 2004 F550 regular cab V-10 with 114K miles. Had a box bed and someone tried to drive it under something that didn't fit. Only damaged the box which I cut down into a flat bed. Drove it to TN from New Orleans and noticed it missing a bit. Scanner revealed a bad coil pack on #8 which I replaced. Recently its started missing a bit again so I'm considering replacing all the coil packs instead of one at a time? Haven't scanned it again but I assume another coil has gone bad?
Second truck is a 2000 V-10 F250 super cab with 6.5' bed and 150K miles that had hit something on the passenger edge of the front bumper damaging the hood, fender, head light assembly, header, and grill. Neanderthals at the Insurance yard broke the steering box shaft with their monster fork lifts. Found all the body donor parts locally at a great price. Installed a rebuilt steering box and have removed the damaged body parts. To my surprise, the front frame horns are bent a bit sideways by the lick on the outside edge of the bumper. Currently devising a way to secure the truck and pull those frame horns back close to straight so the bumper will bolt up correctly. The bumper holes are slotted so there is a margin of error to work with.
Haven't been able to find any measurements / specs on the front of the 2000 F250 frame - anyone here have that info? If no, then does anyone have a photo from the front with the bumper and grill removed? Thanks in advance!