Does any body have a drawing or schematic of the limited slip rear end in our trucks? Mine does not work at all (only one tire spins) and I'm thinking of replacing the clutch packs but I would like to know what I'm getting into before hand. I have a 1997 F350 4 x 4 single cab. The axel code is C5.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

thanks

 

I am anxious to hear any tips, too. I am in the same boat.
I replaced my rear cover and fluid earlier this year, but didn't have the time to dig into the LS maintenance.

 

I can have all that info for you on Monday when I return to work.

For the most part, its not really a fun job, there is even a tool to stretch the diff housing to pull the ring gear out. and another tool to compressor the clutch pack spring plate if I recall.

I've personally never done a diff re-clutch on our diffs so I cannot say if their are tricks of the trade.

 

Look here:
Sterling 10.25 Trac lock rebuild - Fourdoorbronco forums

 

Great link Cuda, tried to rep you but was told I need to share the wealth!

To the OP, have you considered swapping to a different type LS? When I
regear from 3.55's to 4.10's I'm going to put in a Detroit TrueTrac. It's a gear type LS vs. clutch pack. Supposedly never wears out, and no friction
modifier needed in the gear oil.

 

Thanks for the props badog, you might want to change your mind about a Truetrac.
My buddy works at tratech (Detroit Locker) running the axle dyno....he uses eaton posi's in his drag car.

When they break they take take out some expensive stuff. They are noisy too!
Sometimes they sound like a gun going off when going backwards.

 

Thanks Cuda, what kind of HP did it take to do that kind of damage?

Any other recommendations for a streetable limited slip?

 

Have to disagree with the true-trac being noisy Cuda, i use them in my blazer and their very quiet, however, you are right about them not being overly strong, broke a corner off the wedge block and popped the head off one of the 4 grade 8 bolts holding the side plate on, and was only running 33's at the time(i think the 4ft wheelie had something to do with it)

 

It happened 4 wheelin' in low range....so the HP/TQ was doubled. It may
have been set up tight, heavier springs? IDK.
They might hold up better on the street but if it pops, all the metal shrapnel gets
into some really expensive stuff. I'd rather deal with clutches that can be
replaced/rebuilt. I bought a used 3 pinion (spider gear) posi out of a 10.5 SD for $100
and another $75 for new clutches, that thing is massive and will bolt right in without
re-shimming the side bearing or pinion depth. Anything from a 10.25 or 10.5 will usually just bolt right in
as long as you keep the carrier bearing shims and the housing together and put them back where
you found them....even if you change the carrier bearings.

Thanks to c00nhunterjoe for the heads up.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...diff-swap.html

 

Maybe yours was set up a little softer. Heck even some of the clutch setups
are noisy if they are set up tight or you forset to use the additive in the oil...
although noise shouldn't be a problem running our noisy diesels LOL

4 foot wheelie...I would like have been there for that one

 

It was definitly an experience, was tied to a roll back wrecker that was stuck on top of a hill, i was facing down the hill for more leverage, hit the gas and the truck came up 4feet and then the left rear axel shaft let go with a bang. Got it back to the shop and tore it down and found the broken LS pieces along with lots of axel shaft pieces. wish i had a camera when i did all that.

 

heck yeah! get the 10.5 carrier. it is a beast. i run mine in stock configuration turning 35's. it will not open up unless i am in thick nasty situations or have one tire in the grass and one on pavement and floor it.

 

I remember that post!

Cool, I'll look into getting a 10.5 LS carrier assembly.

Thanks guys

 

you will be amazed at the size and weight difference

 

Good one!