Everytime i turn my truck off i have to disconnect the battery or it will drain within minits. are there any common voltage problems for the 69 390? Any advice? the most obvious thing i can see is that the power supply blot is within a 16th of an inch of the header.... not QUITE touchin but barely enough to get a peice of 120 grit sandpaper in there. help?

 

Also had the Alternator checked, its in good shape, as is the voltage reg and the starter solenoid. im gonna put in a cut-out switch on my dash so i dont have to keep manually disconnecting the battery for now.....

 

SB, You could have any number of things causing the battery drain. It's like leaving your lights on. There could be a voltage regulator stuck, a chaffed wire grounding out. Anything recently added that is not switched?

My forgetter is kicked in this morning, but there are a couple things that you can do at the battery with a light or meter that will stay lite until you disconnect the item that is causing the draw down. Basically you have to troubleshoot it one circuit at a time.

One of the guys that is better with electrical issues will be along in a bit and can splain that method to you.


John

 

First make sure the top of the battery is clean before starting this. Battery acid on top of the battery can conduct. Allow plenty of time because this can take a while if it's not one of the main items.

You basicly install a Test light or Volt meter (DVM) in series with either battery lead. I prefer a DVM because they are more sensitive, but a test lite will work. The DVM will show voltage or the test light will be on as long as you have current flow (something on). You now have to start unplugging things till the light goes out or the volt meter goes to zero. Start with the fuse block, then the alternator, voltage regulator these are the easy ones. Make sure both doors are closed so the dome light is out. Next would be the engine sensors, coil, dist, started lead. I would next disconnect wires on the solenoid (battery side) and re-connect the battery one so you can continue the tests. The large wire besides the battery one feeds the fuse block. There is also a fuse like holder on the inner finer below the battery, check it to make sure it has not fallen apart due to age, mine was broken. Now the hard work if not found by now. You will need to start unplugging the harness connections that runs to the lights, found on the inner finder wells.

Don't take any thing for granted.

Good luck

 

Fun........

 

Yeah But.....If there was a here I am right here red flag, you would need our help.


John

 

yeah projects really suck. you either got time or you got money, but not both. you can pay someone to do it or do it yourself. so if you pay someone then you have no money and you have time. if you do it yourself you have money but your time goes bye bye. theres people who work for a living but actually kill themselves working, like my dad for instance, so now you have all this money and no time to enjoy it! or be like me and sit around all day with all the time in the world cause the military burnt me out and i aint gettin a job anytime soon!

 

Tracing electrical drains can be pita to say it mildly, but it will go faster than it sounds. Unplugging things go fast. Once you got it traced down to a circuit, then you have to pinpoint the exact source.

If you have a aftermarket radio, you will need to pull the memory power. If not you will get a false reading unless you have large amps that are not powering down.

 

After installing a 1 wire 100 amp alt in my '72, I had a slow volt drain too. In a couple of days the battery wouldnt turn the starter. So after pulling fuses and whatever, I gave up, and ran a wire from the fusible link wire that goes to the fuse panel to a hidden kill switch. Just a loop that went back to the fuse link with a switch in it. So killed 2 birds with 1 switch. Truck is completely dead when it is off, not even a dome light. Just make sure you use a switch that can handle whatever has to go thru the fuse panel.

 

It ended up being the starter soleniod and my mech went ahead and replaced the aging alternator as well. now she starts up every time a twist the key, no probs.

 

As cheap as those starter relays are,i usually just change them even if they seem to work,and then toss the working used one into the spare parts box.....I also replace battery cables unless the existing ones appear practically new,and are 4Ga. cable or larger.....Cheap insurance,and less worries.......Good luck on the project!