okay, more axle questions. now that i have my mind made up for the moment on my front end, all i have in the rear of my truck is a bone stock (and i do mean BONE stock...prolly down to gear lube!!) D60 with 44's bolted to it.

i am lookin for a 1-ton rear axle for my rig. i have located two 14 bolts...one is an 80-something out of a van, and the other is out of an '06 dually dirty-max (complete w/ disk brakes)...askin $750 for the '06 and prolly $200 for the old drum brake one.

i also have a 94 heavy 3/4 that im getting ready to junk...the rear axle (10.25) is prolly the only thing worth a crap, so im debating on just using it instead of buyin a 14 bolt...BUT (haha, as usual) i am wondering what my options are for disk brakes, gears and lockers...so far 5.13's are pretty close in price for both axles, but i know the 14 bolt can only go down to about 5.38 max. and as far as the disk brakes go, i am wondering about using the setup off of a superduty if it'll work...but i havent figured out what rotor to use.

thanks in advance guys!

 

The older 14 bolt has a standard 8 lug pattern of your current truck. The newer one is probably metric. . .

The older 14 bolt should have dozens of disk brake conversions available using off the shelf parts for less than the difference of the newer axle.

The 14 bolts are low hanging and weigh a ton. They can be trimmed a bit though. . .

The Sterling, I don't believe is as low hung nor as heavy.

I don't think the Sterling is convertible to disk breaks at the moment. If it is, someone let us know


Wish I could be of more help

 

In the 1994.5-1997 Diesel section theres a guy that put disc brakes on his 10.25'' rear (on his 97 f350). I believe he used older parts off a 80's chevy.

 

well, either petersens (4WOR) or fourwheeler did and article called "stopping the sterling" but i cant find it in my back-issues. and like i said, the super duty's sterling 10.5s came with disks, but ur right about the metric pattern there...the guy at the junk yard told me chev never did go to a metric bolt pattern, which is another concern that is swayin me that way...but theres no sense in buyin a 14 bolt if i can mod a free sterling for cheap(er) vs the cost of the chev axle.

the other things im considerin are keepin my rig %100 ford, and more importantly the cost of parts. but a gear swap in either one is iminent so im not so worried about that being factored into the overall cost...however, that little tidbit tips the scales in favor of the ford axle

btw, does anyone have any experience wheeling or building the 10.25's? what are some pros, cons, and/or quirks with these things? anyone?

 

you can go as low as something like 6.72" for the gears but you gotta order those through the dealer (i will look up the exact ratio but its pretty low! your weakest link (esp the lower you go) will definitely be the pinion gear. i have YET to hear of someone successfully shearing a sterling shaft. in fact there was a post on pirate a while back asking for stories and pics and i never saw anything legit!

BTW... how do you figure the 10.25" is ford and the 14 bolt is Chevy? Sterling builds for Ford and Corporate biuilds for chevy/dodge. either way you go you will be happy!

there is very little shaving you can do on a sterling to gain clearance but the 14 bolt you have to really dig in and knock some meat off

it's about the same as most other axles... again the pinion is the weak link and if you ever have it apart replace the crush sleeve with the shims made for a 9". works great!

disc brake kit for the sterling...
Ford Rear Disc Brake Kits for 9", Dana 60, Dana 70 and Sterling

-cutts-

 

Yup breaking stock shafts is not common on the sterling, it is a stout axle, it stands up to my abuse with the 37"s Im not the most hardcore wheeler but im not the nicest person to my rigs either. It stands up with no complaints.

 

Thanks for that. I have that debate with plenty of die hard true blue guys.

The 14BFF really shines when the torque gets applied and heavy trucks begine to hop. This is important when performing extraction, or catching a little air under power.
The pinion support of the 14B is far greater than any other comparable axle in this category.
Not all 14B's are the same, so watch some of the dually axles. Center sections are weak in some and stronger in others. There are two types of hubs available, and depending on your application, some are more desireable than others, so do a little research.

True about the Sterling/ Visteon axle, with regards to strength, but heavy trucks will need some re-enforcement where the tube meets the center section, but the same is true for the 14B. This problem is just a slightlylarger problem in the 10.25.
This axle tends to come apart here, and often the pinion will turn straight up without the tubes. This is especially true when traction devices are used on the tubes and not the center section.
Again this does not mean that the 14B or any other axle does not have this problem, it is just more common on the 10.25.
I have yet to break a shaft in a 10.25, but I have only had one, and I did bust the center from the tubes.

I have only busted one 14B shaft, but several stock D70 shafts.

The 14B has a slightly larger ring gear and pinion to ring engagement is advantageous here. The 14B is stronger in this area for this reason.

Another advantage is the pinion offset being better than that of a Sterling, or even a Dana.
This not only adds strength, but decreases driveshaft angle, and provides greater ground clearance. Yes it is minimal, and probably splitting hairs.
Consider aftermarket support for the two, and again the advantage goes to the 14B.
Heak, a 4,56, Detroit locked 14B's can be found in wrecking yards. Many trucks, and all military vehicles were equiped this way.
Super cheap, and super tough!
Hard to beat that combo.

 

great point... i forgot to mention that. a lot of people running high horsepower and traction bars will weld the tubes to the center section via nickel rod. i have been meaning to do it on my bronco but just havent.

if you had a 14B and 10.25 laying next to each other identical in every aspect possible and both free i'd go with the 14B hands down. but they are really a toss up when you start figuring in costs. like i said earlier, you WILL be happy no matter which axle you choose. i run a sterling in the bronco mainly for the reason it came in my old 85 F250 (R.I.P.) and it was free. but i have no had one problem with it and i beat the living snot out of my junk when i get to go (dont believe me? look at my leaf springs i keep twisting up or look at the several driveshafts i pretzeled when i had the 10.25 under my 85 F250!)

haha, truth be told Ford barely has a hand in building their diesels trucks... Dana front axle, Sterling rear axle, International 7.3L (my era of truck, OBS PSD), ZF transmission, Borg Warner t-case. hell all ford has to build is the frame/cab configuration and put it all together! not a bad gig!

-cutts-

 

honestly these days, i think everybody is the same, chevy ford dodge, there all the same really, just make the frame and cab, then put the other parts in it.

 

Really kind of been this way all along.
Dana axles, New Process, new Venture, Borg Warner, and thats just the drivetrain.

I say take the best components you can get your hands on and build a decent rig.

I like the 14B but would not kick away the sterling. Each has very strong points, but if a real locker is gonna be installed, the cost savings of the 14B might put it out in the lead.
Also, the 14B is the easiest axle to set-up. Even beginners can attempt this one.
No shims to adjust the ring gear. These are adjustable, and a snap to perform.
Stock carriers for the 14B's are bullet proof, and if one decides to run a spool, Overson makes a killer unit that runs about 200 bucks.
I am not a fan of welding simply due to the parasitic losses. I know only slight, but everything counts.
I believe dollar for dollar the Corperate unit still comes out with an advantage.
Around my area, the 14B is cheap. A good one. without the re-enforcement ribs runs about 100 to 150 bucks here. They are everywhere.

 

Yea if your building a wheeling buggy or whatever, then go with what you can get, for cheap and strong.

If your gunna build up a bronco or any kind of ford, i say stick with ford parts. Thats just the way i am though, i would rather see a chevy with a chevy motor than with a ford motor. Now if you start getting into the older trucks, like 60's and before, than i say do what you want, cause the cool factor of seeing one of them out, it dont matter what powers it.

 

i agree, the locker issue is going to be your point of decision. reason i didnt care is i welded my axle so it was a no brainer.

-cutts-

 

If had to purchase one or the other I'd go 14b due to (as said before) availibilty, price, aftermarket support, gear set up is cake, a Detroit for it is very economical, and the pinion is supported by 2 bearings. It does hang a little low but it's been discussed many times on the web how to remedy that (trim the bottom).

 

They do make a disk conversion for the older sterlings. I got mine from broncograveyard.

 

yea, tsm makes one, too...found the article.

basically, i have the sterling (so its free) and there is an 06' 14 bolt sitting in a junk yard the already has disks. i'll prolly just go ahead and weld the rear end cuz this thing prolly wont see the street..although i'd love to go selectable...but im wondering (and have gotten many sides to the story) if i can mod my 10.25 cheaper than buying the 14 bolt already modded minus R&P, but right now the 10.25 is out front cuz i have it and about all it needs, for my purposes, is disk brakes and welded. but the corporate is sounding tempting cuz eventually i am wantin to put a locker in ect, ect...and the double pinion bearing is somethinelse that is pretty tempting.