I have an 86 F-150 2 wheel drive and want to convert it to a 4x4. I have access to a 89 F-150 with four wheel drive that also has the 302. I need to know if it will work, and if i will need to modify my tranny for the transfer case? And I need an idea of how much I should pay for the front end, transfer case and the front drive shaft?
Thanks
Please E-mail me at Crashnburn8202(No Email Addresses In Posts!)

 

to crash and burn, i am working on converting 88 2wd to 4wd. i have donor vehicle- 85f150. there are several postings on this site that dicuss swaps on 80-96 trucks. check archives for info. i found several shops that will do conversion using my donor truck for 1500 to 2700 dollars! i recommend buying whole f150 or big bronco of similar year,that are rustbucket or wrecked to use as donor, rather try to buy peices,unless you are comfortable with source. i am going to do work myself, but it is reassuring to know that shops are willing to do work. so, it can be done. i will post results as project progresses

 

I too am converting my 88 F150 to 4x4. It is an easy conversion with the right parts. Using the DANA 44 IFS axle, it is a bolt on conversion. I think the hardest part for me will be rebuilding my C6 tranny to swap in the shorter output shaft. I got all the needed parts from junkyards, and shops for about $600.00. Im sure I'll spend more at the hardware store for misc. bolts and such. Look in the archives and you will find lots of information.

 

This summer.. most likely July.

I will have a C-6 / NP 208 that work perfectly from an 1984 Bronco XLT that I will be selling as a pair. Engine is a 351W-2bbl (possibly garbage by then)

Dropping in a 429 C-6/NP-205

Uzi... Yamaha Sleds, Honda Bikes, and Ford Trucks....

 

Dont forget to check the gearing on the front end
and rear end make sure thay are the same. But other wise it is better to have a doner truck. but it will work i did it with a 84 4x4 moved all the stuff over to 85 no problem.

 

1984 C-6 small block with NP-208 xfer case for Sale.
came out of a 1984 Bronco XLT

$300 plus u pay shipping

Uzi... Yamaha Sleds, Honda Bikes, and Ford Trucks....

 

to crashnburn: i am following up as promised in my reply to your question on 4x2 to4x4 conversion.
i just finished the suspension swap part of the conversion of my 88f150 using 85 4x4 for parts.
a few things to do before starting:
- spray all nuts + bolts with lots of wd40
or similar lubricant. its amazing how
tight some bolts were stuck on!
- rebuild any u-joints and replace bearings
and seals before reassembling truck. it
was easier on the workbench. i also
replaced the radius arm bushings and
axle pivot bushings with urethane items.
the ride is as tight as a new truck!

- also, get the sway bar off the truck,
it tends to get in the way of things
as you are working the old parts out
and the new in.

overall, it was very easy, almost too easy
it took me about 12 hours to swap parts
e parts,
including changing donor truck into a two
wheel drive.[remember, this is only the
suspension, i still have to do tranny/
transfer case swap.
i also spent about 4-5 hours of this time
cleaning old parts and painting them, and
getting nuts and bolts cleaned up.
so, the cleaner the parts you start with
the easier it will be.

i will update again as work progresses for
anyone interested!

p.s. i did one side at a time, rather than trying to wrestle the whole ifs unit as some had suggested.

 

It is easier to do it one side at a time. I'm almost rebuilding the whole Dana44 before I put it in, I'm getting excited as I plan to have most of it done soon.
This would also be the time to put in a lift kit if you want one. I would if I had the $$$

 

i am done this swap, and am trying to move this thread to front for erick to see, as well as any other interested people.

 

I did this swap this past Spring: '84 front axle into '91. I replaced all steering linkage and upper/lower ball joints at the same time, as well as urethane pivot and radius arm bushings, and all new bearings, seals, and U-joints, and hubs.
I was a tad concerned about brake interchangeability, but the '84 rotors (turned) worked perfectly with the '91 calipers.
Did the swapout on Thursday, had it aligned on Friday, and drove to New Orleans (from Houston) the next day.
Eddie

 

Hi, make it easy on youself If the trannys are the same (both auto or both stick) use the one from the donor truck, but yes it is all interchangeable simple unbolt and rebolt but I would try to get the whole truck just so you have acess to what ever parts are needed instead of chasing back and forth.
John (FATFORTY)

 

I've got a original 1980 4x4. When I bought it one of the
leafs in the back was broke. Thats when I found out that
a replacement from a 4x4 would have to be found because
4x4's have 3 inch wide springs and 2wd have something smaller
(2.5 inch?). My truck also has a factory block that seems
to be there to raise the ride height. Just food for thought
for you guys.

 

why not use a 73-79 4x4 front axle so you will have a straight axle, stronger, and easier to lift, and swap to the 9 inch rear when you do it. You can also swap in a np205 t-case when you change tranneys to get the stronger parts.

 

My first thought when I was starting my 2wd to 4wd project was the obvious one: '78/'79 1/2-ton Dana straight axle with the complete coil spring & buckets, Panhard rod, etc., i.e, simply graft the whole '78/79 disc brake front suspension system on.
A screamin' deal came up on the TTB frontend ($220.00, complete axle system, new replacement springs, rotors sand calipers, hubs)'cause Mudinford was converting his 150 to straight axle (his '84 pickup had previously been 2wd, and had had the '86 frontend under it that is under my '91 now--that TTB gets around; it's on its third truck;We won't discuss the new axles, Limited Slip, 4.09 R&P, or manual hubs it acquired).

Dan had his '84 up on jackstands, and the '78 straight axle lined up under it. The pumpkin was off-centered by about 5-inches from the engine crossmember hump made to recieve the TTB pumpkin, which would have the straight axle pumpkin bashing that crossmember unless a mongo lift was used...which he is, and which is cool, 'cause he's running 40's or maybe even 44's.
I didn't want a mongo lift; 31x10.50-15 tires are cheap and easily available and a lift looks stupid with small tires.
I may a some future time have a custom straight axle built, but that possibility is real doubtful at best.

I agree with you, a donor truck is the way to go. However: my '91 has the POS Mazda 5-spd. OD, 2wd version. The easiest way to go would have been the Mazda 4wd version, stock BW t-case, linkage, trans crossmember, driveshafts, etc. Easy bolt-in, but...NO WAY!

The next transmission option was the heavy-duty ZF-5-spd. (Granny low, OD top, sweet!). That combination was available behind F250HD and up, with the 300-6 or 351 engines, which would have the small-block bellhousing bolt pattern which would bolt up to the 300 in my pickup.

If you can find one, LUCKY YOU! If you can afford it, EVEN LUCKIER YOU!

The next alternative was a granny-low truck 4-spd, such as the T-18 or 19 or NP235, with an add-on OD unit of some sort, which is the direction I'm going.

I came across another screamin' deal on the indestructable NP435/adaptor/NP205 combination from a '78 (trans crossmember, both drive shafts, linkage, brackets, etc. $250.00) which I bought and am finishing overhauling over the Christmas break.
I located and bought the required unique external clutch slave cylinder bellhousing and related parts, which are ready to go back together.

I took delivery on an Advanced Adaptors Ranger III overdrive unit yesterday, and am hoping to move into the installation phase sometime in January, but before it can go together I need to fabricate an easy-to-work one-handed shift linkage (two shift levers), have a couple of tubular support crossmembers made, and rework the header/catalytic covertor system to provide attachment room for the second crossmember which is going to support the bellhousing and the OD unit, which are both aluminum supporting a cast-iron engine at one end, and cast iron tranny/adaptor/T-case at the other.

The key to doing this kind of swapping in HOMEWORK--I measured and eyeballed all kinds of setups, and read everything I could to figure out what kinds of interchangeable components were out there, past and present. It all sounds complicated, but really it's not...just keep your eyes open and don't be in any huge rush 'cause that's when you make mistakes--and remember, build it on paper first!

Do I get a cookie for having written the longest post I've ever written?

Eddie