Holy crap that bad boy is tight... Any tips on removing the crank pulley bolt would be great. Is it possible it's a left thread? The engine is a 300 L6. I have no impact wrench but i could possibly get one on loan, however i think it should be possible to loosen with a wrench.

Another question: Is it bad to wedge a wood block between the block and the crank to be able to torque the bolt?

 

Might be able to double wrench it. Take the box end of your wrench and put it on the bolt then take a bigger wrench and hook the box end of it over the open end of the first wrench. Or get a breaker bar. Usually use an impact though.

 

Should be fine, if you can fit it. Just the other day I used a huge screwdriver in front of the connecting rods and away from the inside of the cylinder wall. In retrospect I should have wrapped in a rag, and used an "impact wrench" in the form of beating the snot out of a 1/2" breaker bar with a mini sledge. After 17 years of MA road salt, nothing less would work.

I also read about threading bolts through the pulley and wedging them against the timing cover. But all that got me was a new timing cover after breaking the webbing on it, and the ill temperament that led to the above measure. Good luck.

 

You really should have a basic manual like a Haynes.

 

Haynes suggested a chain wrench, which in my case was a knife at a gunfight, but as a general point, yes indeed.

 

I have a chilton, but they don't get into detail regarding the crank pulley removal or installation for that matter...

 

i have a big metal bar that fits over my socket wrenches whenever i need the extra leverage to break loose a rusty bolt. Alot of the time my impact wont break stuff loose all by itself. When that happens i just break it loose with my 4 foot lever arm wrench and then finish it off with the impact.

 

I have a 2 foot breaker bar that has yet to be defeated. Whether it actually loosens something or simply shears it off, it has never failed to get something to move.

 

yeah the bar i slip over my socket wrench is the same. either its coming off the easy way or its coming off the hard way lol. If its a specialty bolt though i try to take it easy and not let it get too hot and keep it well lubed. For stupid **** though, or if im angry, *snap*!

 

If you have the drive plate or flywheel on the crank I'd use a big screwdriver in the flywheel teeth to hold the crank. As far as a block of wood between the lower end of a connecting rod and the block, or even the journal and the block I just don't think you and a two or even three foot bar will hurt anything, unless your the lad I saw carry 5- 98 lb bags of cement. If thats the case I don't know and sure don't want to give you any bad advice. kotzy

 

Finally got the bolt. 4ft pipe on my 1/2" drive rachet, the bolt was a Nancy girl after that.

Anyway, i was pretty happy about it all, until i went to remove the pulley, that thing must be press fit on there also. Do i need a puller for this thing and since the pulley has a rubber ring between it and the hub i'm guessing a hook style puller will not work but rather the bolt on type i can attach to the threaded holes on the hub?

Do any of you know the bolt hole center spacing?