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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2012, 10:50 PM
F150on75 F150on75 is offline
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Smile Fun fun fun...

Started removing dash today. Got the core out. Found that the tool for removing the hoses was useless. Hard to put the tool where needed if you can't see it. Cut lines on core and came right out.

Tomorrow the real fun begins putting all the screws back. My helper put them all in one bag. Got to love her anyways.
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F150on75 View Post
Started removing dash today. Got the core out. Found that the tool for removing the hoses was useless. Hard to put the tool where needed if you can't see it. Cut lines on core and came right out.

Tomorrow the real fun begins putting all the screws back. My helper put them all in one bag. Got to love her anyways.
Amazingly, the heater hose tool worked for me last weekend. But I can definitely see how it might not.

If you get into a quandry about all of those screws mixed up in the same bag, send me a PM or email and I'll help you sort through it while it's fresh on my mind. As you already know by now, the black screws with the 7mm heads are the dominant fasteners. The longer ones of those go into the kick panel below the steering wheel. You'll definitely remember the three bolts that hold the airbag in place, and the three little tiny 5.5 mm bolts hold the air bag switch in place.
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1949 F1, Stock / 1950 F-5
1950 F1, 302, AOD (still in a lot of pieces)
1997 F150 XLT, 4.6L
2008 F250 XLT, 6.4L Powerstroke
2011 Expedition EL
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:38 PM
F150on75 F150on75 is offline
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Thanks Doc.

Still working on it. Decided that the door was not the problem and I am replacing the motor while I am in there. Looks like I am in for some fun there. Hope to have that done before I loose anymore light. Love your 49er. Oh for the ease of the less complicated models. I remember as a kid turning the wiper blades from under the dash, when the wiper motor went out. Could not dream of doing that now days. Lol...
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:56 AM
BFTUFF BFTUFF is offline
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The blend door has been redesigned, I would definitely replace it. Also, new foam lining must be adhered to the new heater core before final assembly. Ask your ford parts counter for that. If your replacing the heater core, it's insane not to replace the blend door at the same time, broken or not. it will eventually break or get stuck.
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:52 AM
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The blend door has been redesigned, I would definitely replace it. Also, new foam lining must be adhered to the new heater core before final assembly. Ask your ford parts counter for that. If your replacing the heater core, it's insane not to replace the blend door at the same time, broken or not. it will eventually break or get stuck.
Exactly. The new blend doors have a round metal sleeve around the lower hinge point. The original WILL eventually break. If you're already in hell, shoot the devil while you're there so that you don't have to go back and do it later.
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1949 F1, Stock / 1950 F-5
1950 F1, 302, AOD (still in a lot of pieces)
1997 F150 XLT, 4.6L
2008 F250 XLT, 6.4L Powerstroke
2011 Expedition EL
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexAcoon View Post
I'd like to thank those that have taken time to write much information about heater core and blend door replacement. I decided to tackle this job myself and I found it to be easier than what I had expected. The time involved was fairly significant, but the overall difficulty of the job is something that anyone with a good socket set and assortment of other basic tools can tackle... saving hundreds of dollars in the process!

Pending on your year model there could be a couple of steps that could be differed a little. The document below opens with MS WORD and can be printed out and taken with you to your truck during repairs.

Here it is... http://nator.net/files/Heater Core Replacement.doc

Hope It Helps!
Is there a way to get this document? I'm unable to open it from my mac
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexAcoon View Post
I'd like to thank those that have taken time to write much information about heater core and blend door replacement. I decided to tackle this job myself and I found it to be easier than what I had expected. The time involved was fairly significant, but the overall difficulty of the job is something that anyone with a good socket set and assortment of other basic tools can tackle... saving hundreds of dollars in the process!

Pending on your year model there could be a couple of steps that could be differed a little. The document below opens with MS WORD and can be printed out and taken with you to your truck during repairs.

Here it is... http://nator.net/files/Heater Core Replacement.doc

Hope It Helps!

What happened to this document?
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Old 09-09-2013, 12:38 AM
summerjack summerjack is offline
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I need this link to work!!
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Old 09-09-2013, 06:51 AM
BFTUFF BFTUFF is offline
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Try this one. It's the one I used in conjunction with the factory Ford workshop manual:

I tried to copy and paste the link directly, but it doesn't work for some reason. So go to this forums post and click on and save the link from it there: http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=59067 It's the 8th post down, link at the top. After several attempts finally, this works. For some reason the link won't copy and paste off the site. It does download to my Mac via PDF.

As it states, you do not have to remove all the wiring harnesses and completely remove the dash. Just disengage the dash and swivel it out of the way and rest it on the passenger seat while gaining access to the HVAC box. While your in there replace the heater-core if you haven't already or you'll have to pull the dash out again at a latter date. Note: There is one centrally located bolt not mentioned in the dash removal up underneath the center of the dash in the back. Also, remove the shift cable from the steering column or you'll be buying another one if you try to pull the dash out without doing so, it will break. Bag and mark all the bolts and screws to, this will aid in replacement and assure they all get put back where they're supposed to be. It took me two days and am I happy I did it all.
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Old 09-09-2013, 12:27 PM
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This is all you need. It's excellent.


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Shane
1949 F1, Stock / 1950 F-5
1950 F1, 302, AOD (still in a lot of pieces)
1997 F150 XLT, 4.6L
2008 F250 XLT, 6.4L Powerstroke
2011 Expedition EL
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Old 09-10-2013, 04:17 AM
BFTUFF BFTUFF is offline
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You do not have to remove the electrical connectors as shown in this video. Follow the other link I provided and pivot the dash away from the passenger side and rest it on the passenger seat. You will have to lower the steering column (pretty easy) and still remove all screws and bolts holding the dash on. I marked all the bolts and screws with white paint stick for easy future relocation if removal needs to take place again.
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Old 09-10-2013, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFTUFF View Post
You do not have to remove the electrical connectors as shown in this video. Follow the other link I provided and pivot the dash away from the passenger side and rest it on the passenger seat. You will have to lower the steering column (pretty easy) and still remove all screws and bolts holding the dash on. I marked all the bolts and screws with white paint stick for easy future relocation if removal needs to take place again.
Agreed. Removing those big bulkhead electrical connectors is not necessary. Otherwise the video is pretty explanatory.
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Shane
1949 F1, Stock / 1950 F-5
1950 F1, 302, AOD (still in a lot of pieces)
1997 F150 XLT, 4.6L
2008 F250 XLT, 6.4L Powerstroke
2011 Expedition EL
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2013, 04:22 AM
BFTUFF BFTUFF is offline
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Yes, once the dash is free, it must be pulled straight out slightly with the steering column down, then the dash can be pivoted very carefully to rest on the edge of the passenger seat. Just enough room to unbolt the heater core cover and replace H. core and blend door. It's a necessity to do both once you've done all the work getting in there. Again, there is a (not mentioned) centrally located bolt in the upper central back of dash that must come out and the shift cable must be removed on the steering column or it will break as mine did. The box itself doesn't have to be removed. Just the upper cover on the box to gain access to the heater-core and the blend door. You must also acquire some special adhesive backed foam tape (Ford Dealer) that must be installed around the perimeter of the new H.core before installation to have a tight air seal and also dampen vibration that may cause the heater tubes to break off the core in the future.
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:22 AM
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