For info: a lot of the old engines ran at 6btdc. My 300 is spec'd for that too. You can run them more advanced to gain top end, but it does affect the bottom end. They also start harder when advanced.

 

My 460 is 10BTDC

 

Yeah, I meant in the 60s and 70s. My 74 ford factory shop manual specs all the engines between 6 and 8, IIRC

 

What do you guys think about dropping down my transfer case, and adding pinion shims to get some pinion angle back? I have the devorced 205 if you were wondering.

 

How bad of an angle is it?

 

pics of the angle?

 

Might have something else wrong. I did not ask you when we were discussing your steering. I do not see how a divorced case can have such a poor driveline angle.
I run 44's on my 73 truck and this has a married case with 1410 u-joints. Full suspension cycles, and no binding.
Do you have a double cardan joint on the front shaft?
How is the angle on the rear shaft? That driveshaft is pretty short.
Caster is likely to be your problem right now, and the shackle length might be part of the problem.

 

Aluminum degree shims have a bad rap for breaking but if you don't bolt them into the spring pack they seem to last. I drilled mine out and got some center pin shims from my local spring shop (they are just a thick hardened washer/collar that is the same o.d. as the pins head) to lengthen the head out so it will pass through the shim & into the axle. I also put a flat spacer in the spring pack so it has something flat to go against. They have been in there for years and haven't broke...yet !

 

 

The front shaft does not have a double joint. The angle on the rear shaft is pretty good. That might change once I do the flip kit though. Im going to do what I asked you about, removing the military wrap or both like you did and see where I sit. I know the caster is an issue right now, the axle is actually sitting a little bit low on the pinion side, rather than sitting level like it should. The shackles are definatly part of the problem, thats why I was wondering about the shims to bring the axle back to level. Dont they make the shims so they bolt onto the leaf pack? If it didnt woudnt it kinda along the same lines as a front block or being they are so small maybe it wouldnt matter.

 

I pulled my military wrap, and one other leaf out last nite. I was able to hook my driveshaft up the way it sits, but any flex it is going to bind up. I was thinking my problem might be in the transfer case too. Im guessing it is supposed to sit strait, mine is angled toward the front of the truck. Only issue with that is if I straiten it up, my rear angle will be screwed. So...im at a hault for the moment. Still thinking of lowering the t-case while straightening it, and using the shims in the front to help out. What degree do you think ill need and what other ideas yall got? (notice how the pinion is facing down)

 

I looked at my 72/75 conglomeration,and it too looks like the Transfer case is tilted,however at stock height,it isnt a problem. what would a shop in your area charge to cut and turn the axle tubes to get the pinion more inline with the t-case output?

 

I honestly dont know...probably alot i would imagine.