new to the site, new to fords in general. recently picked up a 460.. finally got it unloaded put it on the stand and degreased.. the motor sat in a heated garage for approx 7 years before i bought it and when I go to drain the oil, the first thing that came out was water (about 2-3 litres) then nothing but thick nasty sludge. I continue to stripe down and these were the casting numbers I was able to pull of the motor.

Heads: D2VE-AA
Intake: D0VE-9452 B
Block: D1VE-AA
Valve Covers state motor came out of 74' Ford F250

I have yet to pull the oil pan, and heads but will be stripping it even further tomorrow after work.

More to the point of the thread, im looking for a 400-450 horse big block to power my mud truck (44s, 15" lift 80' f250 D60 front, 10.25 rear) ive gone over the 460 horsepower chart and would like to get a better idea of what im getting myself into to achieve that range.. from the casting numbers ive provided what route should i go? i might be able to get a set of D0VE heads locally but would that require more work to my motor?

any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

does the engine turn over???? the water would be from condensation most likely. if it is a 74 then you'll have LOW compression. so you'll likely want to go with some pistons. heads.. well if you dont have to stay with iron, then entry level aluminum should definitly be on your radar. (you can get a performer RPM 75cc for 1000 each from summit or jegs) if you are trying to source D0VE heads, you'll be paying in the area of 800-1000 rebuilt unported/pair. or cores and have them rebuilt.. for a mud truck though i'd definitly consider a stroker kit. you can get 400-450 horse without it but the cubic inch helps keep the valvetrain more modest to achieve that.

 

what would i be looking at as far as a stroke kit goes price wise? any mods have to be done to get it to work?

i dont want to be spending 5-6gs on a build up for this motor.. maybe 3-4 but i also have to rebuild a c6 for the power.. maybe even the t-case aswell, along with front and rear lockers, maybe even a new rad if i need it????

 

is the c6 going to need a stall converter? keep in mind my motor had about 3 litres of water in the bottom end, im thinking about rebuilding the bottom end and while im doing that maybe boring it out and throwing in some good pistons.. ?????

 

I would ditch the d2's and get a nice set of rebuilt d0ve or d3ve heads. the d2's are open chamber heads that were for emissions purposes. I would bore the block .030, use stock crank and rods and you should be close.

 

thats sounds like an option.. if i went the d0ve route, and got a set of .030 over flat tops what compression would i be running? i want to stick with high octane pump gas.

 

my calculations without exact numbers shows 12.8.

 

which octane fuel should i run? like i said i want to be running high octane pump fuel..

 

i've never tried to run big compression with high octane pump. i think 12.8 if thats accurate...seems a bit high to me they are usually in the 11.5-12.0 range depending on the manufacturer, number of reliefs etc with D0VE heads. it also depends on whether your decking the block, decking will bring the pistons up closer to 0. If you are boring i'd at least have the deck checked. Based on your budget the strokers and the aluminum heads are out. D0's or D3 (which are open chamber btw) will be the head of choice. D0VE with the flat top say...KB hyper piston will put you close to 12:1. you could possibly get detonation with that compression and D0VE heads. D3VE and the same piston will be approx 10:1 thats no problem on high octane pump. KB also makes a dome top for 460/6.605 rod.. i saw them on ebay a few days ago.. with the D3VE heads and them i think they were in the 11:1-11.5:1 range might be something to look at. BTW i'm not trying to push KB's on you its just the hyper is cheaper than a forged piston.. i know what building on a budget is all about i ran into trouble a bit on my bottom end, no money left for things like...carb, and intake.

 

12:1 is totally out of pump gas range, and one of the major reasons I tell guys to NOT go looking for D0VE heads. People seem to have this VERY mistaken belief that D0VE heads wil magically improve HP and nothing is further from the truth on a new rebuild. D0VE heads were a way to increase HP SLIGHTLY with an new model motor that was not going to be rebuilt because it would raise the compression ratio some. But when your doing a rebuild you can buy pistons that are appropriate for the heads you have to bring the ratio where you want it. The later D3VE heads have almost identical flow characteristics and by some accounts a more efficient chamber so the Power potential is the same especially on a pump gas engine. And the D3VE heads are cheaper because uniformed people will pay stupid money for D0VE heads and not gain a thing yet will almost give away a set of D3VE heads.
As to your compression ratio unless you want to run additives or keep your timing backed off, or run race gas then keep your compression ratio below 10:1 (preferably 9.5:1 running 91 octane with Iron heads) and make sure you have your piston to deck clearance at .010 or less. on a 460 .030 over With D0VE heads that is going to require at least a 24cc dish piston and your piston to deck of .010 (increase the dish to 28cc if you zero deck the block), but with D3VE heads you can run a flat top with 8-12cc valve reliefs (typical flat top), zero deck the block and be good for a pump gas motor at around 9.3 with the 12cc and 9.6 with the 8.

 

Sounds like a huge f&%#ing deal with running D0VE heads, considering thats the only set of heads I can find.. and the guy wants $1100 CDN for them... is it worth running my D2VE heads to get my preferred hp level? Ive heard from a few people that they are junk.. but my only option is running D0VE heads on race fuel, finding a set of D3's, or running my D2s

????????????

 

Where are you located in canada. i know where there are a few sets of heads. i tried to PM you but it doesnt work. PM me if you can

 

The D2VE heads really are not a good deal, you have to run some real low compression with them as the open chambers are terrible about detonation.
I would look for a set of D3VE heads, they are the most plentiful anyway being used from 73 clear up until the switch to FI in 1987. a few of the mid 80s heads will have a different casting number on them like E5TE IIRC but they are for all intents and purposes the same thing. the ones you CAN'T use are the E7TE and F3TE as those are the fuel injection heads and the intake ports don't line up with Carb manifolds.
If all you can find are a set of D0VE heads then yes you cna run them but $1100 even CDN is WAY high for them unless they are complete and really worked over IMHO with new stainless valves, good springs, locks and retainers and all setup with 7/16 screw in studs and guideplates.

 

located on Vancouver Island in BC.

Im going to try and find a set of D3s, i might just buy the D0VE's for the hell of it, how much are a set of good aluminum heads?

 

the alum heads complete pair are running around $2100 USD for the TFS and close for the edelbrok heads, maybe a little more for the FRPP SCJ-A and the Kaase P51s. The A460 stuff is around $2700 last time I looked.