I do hear a very very light click from the green relay when I ground pin 6, nothing from the brown one.

Also there is what I believe to be a ground cable on a ( solenoid )? by the passenger head light, the cable is very very hot to the touch and I have burnt myself on it.

Possible short?

 

should I go buy a new brown relay?

I have to get going, have 4 hours driving ahead of me to get back to Milwaukee for my m-f/9-5 job.. I guess this will have to wait till next weekend.

I appreciate the help!

 

Does not make much sense, you would be back feeding through the contacts to the battery.
I would check the wiring under the relays.
If you are talking about the brown one getting hot it is not even on the fuel pump circuit.

I do not know which relay you are talking about or in or out.
If you are talking IN to the coil and contacts in both relays then you have a fuse link/wiring problem from the starter relay to the contacts of the fuel pump relay and you have no power coming from the Ignition Switch.
What does work (radio, head lights, turn signals)?

That pin is unused so you can use it.

That is the Fuel Pump Relay.

That is what is suppose to happen. The brown one clicks when you turn on the key.

I think that may be your problem, if it is the wire I am thinking of it needs to go to the negative side of the battery. That is the computer ground wire.
It should look like the photo below.



Make sure you have the ground at the battery before you do anything else.
/

 

Here is a 89 diagram that should be close to what you have if not the same.


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Ok, found the problem.. there's actually 3 fusable links on the 3 post regulator that bolts above the passanger headlamp.. I moved it around and found one lose!!

I put it back and found some bad connections.. the wire that goes to the start was pretty tough and very very hot , I ended up replacing the regulator 3 times ( don't ask.. ham fisted ) .. toward the end I was able to get it to turn over and almost run, it would sputter and crank well, but the battery was getting tired.

I charged it up and tired again, ALMOST ran.. however after I gave it a break it would not turn over again, just a healthy 'CLICK' from the regulator that I replaced, it also is fairly melted at the post that connections to the starter wire.

I'm wondering if I got some wires mixed up on it??? I don't mind grabbing another one from the parts store ( 11 bucks ) but I want to make sure I wire it up properly, for whatever reason it is getting very very hot with the starter cable I am literally able to burn my skin badly on it.

I do feel better though, at least knowing what the problem is .. I've been trying to get this running for a long long time.

I also found that brake cleaner is the best contact cleaner I can find, spray it on the cruddy housings/wires and they come clean, crack them open, spray it down and the corrosion is gone!

When I started putting it back together a few days ago I found several lose fuel injector plugs from when someone was trying to 'help' , I plugged them back in, but I'm sure they will need a good cleaning.. possibly why it would not stay running.

However why it wont turn over anymore and why the starter wire is getting scalding hot is beyond me.. I must assume the wiring to the regulator is incorrect?

 

It is getting hot because the voltage is low or you have bad connections and it also sounds like you have bad starter & battery cables. Make sure the ground cable (large wire) from the battery NEG (-) post goes to the engine block and not the frame.

Half way to the engine on this ground cable there is a grounding tab and this goes to the sheet medal about 6 inches from the frame. Do not bolt this to the frame like on a truck, this is your body ground. If you do not have a ground at this point run a 8 GA wire or two 10 GA wires from the NEG (-) post of the battery to a good grounding place on the body (not the frame), this is a must.

By the way what you are calling a regulator is the starter relay (or sometimes called a starter solenoid). It still may be OK and what you bolt the starter relay to must be a good ground back to the battery.

All of the fuse links go on the Battery side of the starter relay with the large cable (wire) from the POS (+) post of the battery. The starter cable goes on by it self on the other post of the starter relay and goes to the starter. The small wire (red with a blue stripe wire) goes on the small post by its self.


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Thank you for the information, I will replace the starter wire, it is pretty crusty! Hopefully that will help with my problem. If not, I guess I will have to replace the starter?

 

new starter relay ( 4th ) and new wire to starter...

turns over great now, but wont run,, I get some sputtering, but sounds like some pinging as well?? no knocking.

 

Do you have black smoke out the back?
If so make sure the vacuum hose and wiring is OK going to the MAP sensor.
Make sure that computer ground wire is on the NEG post of the battery and the body is also grounded.

 

no smoke, not enough firing..

I am going to check the plug wires in case they magically got moved while the truck was sitting. Sounds like it's not firing right.

I'll also try and check the computer ground wire.

 

Sorry I'm a total noob.. where is the Map sensor? I will check it over thoroughly.

 

ok, I think I found the map sensor - it is attached above the battery to the blower?

I followed the vacuum hose and it is not attached to anything, would this be my problem? if so - where is it to go?

Thanks!

 

also the computer ground is fine, the other grounds look normal as well.

could one vacuum line be giving me all this trouble?

There is another pink vacuum line that is broken, it runs to some sort of valve on the air box tubing.

 

I tried disconnecting the map sensor to see if it made a difference.. nothing? hmm I'm getting stumped.

 

You need all of the vacuum lines hook up with no vacuum leaks.
Of course this will stop it from starting but may not run long or it may run very badly.
I can not remember without reading all of this again, did you read the codes or not.
If you did not you need to run the KOEO test and read the CM codes.
If you get it running you need also to do the KOER test.
Post back what codes you get.
Why did you disconnect the MAP sensor?
If the MAP sensors vacuum line is not hooked up the engine will not run very good or at all.