thats IAC! not Idle Selenoid! :P

You made me think there was something else. hahaha.

My truck shuts off immedaitly when i unplug it, but there is no way to test the valve while the truck is idling high, because it eventually shuts down and idles lower, but not as low as it should.
Even on the initial start high idle, the truck shuts off when you unplug the IAC.
Which I dont think it should turn off with the IAC unplugged, just idle really low.

There is a high probability that mine is bad. They are not always good outa the box.
I duno the correct voltage they are supposto read while idling either.
If you hit it with the volt meter, you can tell if its runnigh right or not.\

I'll take a second look for the map sensor tommarow.
I could have been looking at the wrong thing.
I'll clean the IAC tomorrow as well.
It wasn't dirty the last time i had it off like it should be either. They usually carbon up.

 

Is your truck OBD2 or EEC ?

 

OBD I
No MAF.

I dont have an o2 sensor either, but that wont effect the problem i'm having now, because it ran fine long after the O2 sensor was removed.

 

How do you run your truck with no o2 sensor?

 

OBD I doesn't need the o2 sensor to run.
OBD II will have problems cause there are 3 o2 sensors.
The fuel air mixture is controlled on the MAF OBD-II setups. Theirfore if i had a MAF setup, i woudln't be having this over fuel issue due to the fact i'd have a few O2 sensors and a computer that can controll them.
Since is SD, it just will always run default for fuel and air. With no O2 sensor it cannot control the EGR system as much. Thats all the O2 sensor is for on the obd-I setup.
And since my EGR return is cut and pinched off behind the engine, the o2 sensor wont do much, but the EGR will still operate and send signals.

I cleaned it yesterday cause it was a good suggestion, if that EGR has been sticking its going to send bad signals and dump fuel.
The IAC is probably bad, I probably got a bad one from the git go. I think its been idling high since i replaced it.
I'll pull the TB off today and check the gasket, I know its monkied up and i used some sillycon on it. I'll replace it with gasket eleminator today.

Now, if your aksing why i still dont run an o2 sensor, its because mine went bad, the thread were bad on them. I have a 4wire o2 sensor. basically add 20 dollars for each wire. so yes, 80 dollars for my o2 sensor. Screw that.
I also run true duals off the headers till i get to the muffler which is my equalizer. So throwing the o2 sensor in one bank will make it work, but give false readings.
The guy at the auto place said "oh people have no problems" but thats just idiocy to do that, due to the fact, your reading one bank!!!! so if one bank goes lean, you will over flow the other. Ive been trying to think of a way to trick the computer into thinking there is a signal.
It reads voltage from the sensor, so I just have to throw on a pot and some voltage and I could adjust it while driving. Sounded like a cool mod, but a lot of work.

 

Oh thanks for the short explanation LOL I have never heard of running without the o2 sensor without a cel or other symptoms.

 

obd 2 wont. obd 1 will without much issue. maybe will run a tad rich.
checked my iac today, that bugger looks as new as the day i baught it. sucker cant be running right. there is no blackness at all.
fixed the gasket on the tb and put on a new mod. will post pics later.
i found rust in my antifreeze so flushed and refilled that.

 

Okay. Since it works with the PSD's I figured I better put on the TPS rubber band mod as well.

 

on my toyota a bad tps gave me similar problems but its mass airflow between the air flow meter and the o2 sensors and it runs just fine with it unplugged so rather than spending $90 on a new one iv just been driving it with it unpluged and runs fine. however your 302 wont run right without it hooked up but should be able to be checked with a good multimeter. i dont have a manual for your truck to look up the specs but it would probably be worth a try to ohm out the tps and see what you get.

 

TPS is new.
And works fine.

I had the voltmeter on the IAC yesterday.
It's not malfucntioning. something is telling it to stay open/closed.

I still don't know why its so clean.

 

Ohm out the CTS cold and at operating temps

 

That's brand new, but I really should.
I just replaced it 2 months ago, and it fixed my idle problem for about 2 days.

 

Sounds like the IAC took a dump even if it's new.
You can check the IAC function by removing it from the TB
with the electrical connector still hooked up. You will see the pintle move in
and out....KOEO not KOER
You might need to ground the body of the IAC to the TB for it to work.

 

Even if the IAC is working jim?

The voltage changes and the engine changes idle.

Actually, yesterday, it was having a tough time figuring out what idle to run at. Was kinda wierd, never had it do that before.
I tried to grab an IAC at the store yesterday, but the only shop thats open after 3 did not have any. and all the other parts stores up here close at 3pm, which is gay. Cause thats about the time everyone who works on their own shat needs parts.

 

battery was having some corrosion issues so i took it out today. Found a wire got traped behind it for something. *shrugs* no clue what. Was wore though and grounding/somethign out on the battery table. Taped it and moved it.

Would be so nice if that was the problem. haha.