do any of you guys have pictures from your IDM mod? I have seen a few pic but they where all from the nbs 7.3 and my IDM is not laid out the same. though I'm pretty sure it's still the tiny blue thing with 6042 on the top. right? thanks! (idm is out and I'm not getting to work in the morning if I Mess it up)

 

I soldered in the res. and the truck now runs like hell.. rough idle and no power. is it just a bad conection or did I fry the IDM? :0(

 

Yes sounds like you have the right thing. The rough running though I would remove the large connector and reconnect it. I think if you mess it up it just won't run period. Here's to hoping its not fried!

 

I have done that a dozen times.. and the third time is ran GREAT for about a minute then back to running rough.. I mean like zero power

 

Sounds like a valve cover connection or UVC then. Maybe your were border line then the extra voltage finished it off. Also check the main engine harness over the driver side valve cover for chaffed wires.

 

ok here is the update. I unpluged the inj. harness at the valve covers on the passanger side and the motor changed little to none in tone but when I unpluged just ONE on the driver side the motor almost died.. so only running on the drivers side bank? how would I go about tracing down the problem? or would it be in the IDM and not the wires? any help would be great

 

anybody know what the ohms should be at the valve cover? but I'm really hoping somebody can tell me it's NOT the IDM
and would I mess anything up driving it 16 miles with it running on four pistons?

 

If it was running right beforehand it probably is the IDM. Did you use the right resistor? May also be as simple as a solder that needs to be redone. If your solder is touching anything other than the resistor and the pads the SMT was on, you may have fried it.

 

Internally, they are all exactly the same. Or at least not enough different that we can look inside and tell. The IDM in my truck came out of an OBS.

 

yes I used the right resistor and my solder is only touching where it should be. like I said it ran great for a short while. and a few months back when my truck was at the local dealer they said my inj. harness was about shot and needed replaced but I kinda though they where just trying to get me for the $400 a new one cost. if I check the harness at the valve cover for resistance how many ohms should it be? though maybe the problem is under the valve cover.. but I have no way to find out for sure untill tomorrow night.

 

Ah....well that's good. Generally one doesn't need to replace the entire harness. It's the connectors that burn up, and sometimes takes the UVC gasket with it. At any rate, they can be rebuilt for well under $400. Somebody has the part numbers saved, hopefully they'll see this thread before long.

Could you see, or smell, any damage on the connector you pulled?

 

no, the passanger side (the side thats not running) LOOKS ok but it's dark now so I could be wrong.

 

Missed this the first time through.

Of the five pins in each harness connector, the outer two are the glow plugs. The next two in are the injectors, and the center wire is the ground for the injectors. You shouldn't get any ohm reading between any of the three center pins or the engine block (well, ~3.5 ohms), or between the injector pins and the glow plug pins.

 

Part Numbers (thanks to other people)

Valve Cover Harness Repair Kits (contains 4 hard shells w/seals, w/o terminals)
(Ford) F7TZ-14489-BA (94-96)
(Ford) F7TZ-14489-AA (97)
(International) 1830829C91 removal tool and Shells w/o pins
(International) 1661875C1 Pins
(International) 2501055C1 Pins with 6" wire
Valve cover harness replacement terminals:
Industry P/N 103935; Winzer Distributing (1-800-527-4126) selection number D52
Valve Cover Gasket (94-97)
(Ford) F4TZ-6584-A
(International) 1818350C2
Valve Cover Harness, under valve cover
(Ford) F4TZ-9D930-K (94-97)
(International) 1815923C92 (94-97)

Link to pictures and more info: RANDOM PICTURES pictures from trucks photos on webshots (thanks to 1997F350)

 

Here's a link to the glow plug test: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...low-plugs.html