1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Check Engine comes on and cuts out/hesitates

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Old 09-15-2008, 05:39 PM
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Check Engine comes on and cuts out/hesitates

After some reading on this forum, I think the problem is the cam position sensor.
Agree? Disagree?
BTW-Where is this found?
 
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Old 09-15-2008, 06:22 PM
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The Symptoms sound like a CPS. If you have a spare put it in and try. if you don't have a spare buy one and replace yours and if it doesn't fix the issue you now have a spare.

The CPS is on the front of the engine at about 11 o'clock around the crank pulley. You can see it from the top but I change them from the bottom.
 
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Old 09-17-2008, 06:13 AM
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Ok I put the new Cam Position Sensor in last night, It wasn't it.
Still has the check engine andcuts out.
I am going to check fuel system next.
Other ideas?
 
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Old 09-17-2008, 07:11 AM
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Get it scanned for codes even if the CEL goes off.
 
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Old 09-17-2008, 10:37 AM
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yep time to get it scanned for codes. Also check the engine oil level. Make sure its full.
 
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Old 09-17-2008, 08:52 PM
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Oil level is fine, fuel filter good. Although I noticed some sediment of some kind in the bottom of fuel bowl.
I am going to buy a scanner. What would be a good one? Just to retrieve codes not program.
 
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Old 09-17-2008, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jle70
Oil level is fine, fuel filter good. Although I noticed some sediment of some kind in the bottom of fuel bowl.
I am going to buy a scanner. What would be a good one? Just to retrieve codes not program.
I would recommend one of these
Terminator Engineering

Add the $30 option at the bottom of the page for Contribution/buzz test and you can pull codes and see data that you will need to diagnose most every issue you may have.

I have one and love it!
 
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Old 09-18-2008, 06:35 AM
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There has got to be something a little cheaper just to pull codes. Isn't there.

I'm partial to Actron, but they don't make anything for the 7.3 PD.
 
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Old 09-18-2008, 07:07 AM
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That's a cheap price for a good scanner. Some actrons will scan a diesel...
But You get what you pay for.
You could have it scanned for 50-100 bucks every time you need to and be at the mercy of the operator to boot (bad info)
If you are going to keep your truck...a good scanner will pay for itself
in the long run. You could sell it with the truck or by itself when the time comes to recoup some of your $$.
 
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Old 09-18-2008, 07:50 AM
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You can also go to Auto Zone and borrow theirs. I have in the past. And then get the codes and post them here if you don't know what the mean. These guys on here know eveything....just my 2 cents
 
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Old 09-18-2008, 08:55 PM
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I had emailed Actron, they tell me none of theirs work with 7.3L PD.
 
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Old 09-19-2008, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by jle70
I had emailed Actron, they tell me none of theirs work with 7.3L PD.
Actually, that's only half true. They will not say it's compatible
with a 7.3 for legal reasons....but some of their products will read
7.3 OBD2 codes....just not all of them. I Had a local autozone
scan my truck and it worked (with my help). It's going to depend on the counter help too,
they gotta know what they are doing.
 
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Old 09-19-2008, 05:59 PM
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Same symptoms I had when my IDM went out last year. LoL I ended up burning up the battery terminals trying to start it. . .
 
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Old 09-19-2008, 08:54 PM
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IDM???
It starts and runs, but it is like it's down a few cylinders and the check engine light is on.
What is it like when a bank of injectors go out. Maybe melted wires or something.
I did have to drive it 30 mi home the other night hoping I did not damage anything. But it does still start very easy.

What is the PCM designation, e.g. OBD 1, OBD 2, etc? I cannot find anywhere where it would tell me. Usually it would be on the emissions label.
 
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Old 09-20-2008, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by jle70

What is the PCM designation, e.g. OBD 1, OBD 2, etc? I cannot find anywhere where it would tell me.
Not sure how to tell what PCM you have, but someone will have it.

Your truck may have both connectors.
You can send your PCM (or buy and exchange) to Dp-tuner and they can reflash
your computer to a 96 or newer OBD2. It runs $75.

OBD1 connector is under the hood
OBD2 is under the dash
The red connector on the left is OBD1, the black one on the right is OBD2.
.
.
.
 


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