I want to share the following procedure in hope that you will find this project easy enough to do yourself.
The exhaust up-pipe (or y-pipe) has to be removed in order to eliminate the "scoop" inside. This scoop highly restricts the exhaust gasses to the point that you may even see soot trying to escape where the exhaust manifold meets the head! This evidence of soot will show you just how restrictive this egr up pipe is, however the drivers side manifold does not have this scoop and does not exhibit soot at that union.

This is an easy one man procedure that most anyone can do with basic mechanics tools.

Enjoy!

The first step in this modification is to remove the downpipe from your turbo.
This is a great time to upgrade to 4" aftermarket pipes! In these pictures I've already in place a Stainless Steel Magnaflow exhaust system.

Using a zip tie at the transmission will hold the end of your wrench in place. This is looking up from the drivers side.



The nylon tie will hold the socket firmly in place.



Using an extension from the passenger side remove the nut. I used penetrating oil on each bolt thread.



Take a magnet and remove the bolt. Notice the aftermarket 4" downpipe floating up in there.



A good telescopic magnet is an invaluable tool for those hard to reach places.



These two bolts are next. The upper bolt on the up-pipe and the stainless collar clamp on the egr cooler. They might look easy to get to but are way back in there near the firewall.



Using the same trick at the begining, zip tie your wrench end while using a combination on the nut.



A 3/8 air ratchet is the perfect tool for removing the egr clamp



Slide the egr clamp over the cooler and away from the up pipe. At the different colored union you can see where the up pipe and egr cooler meet.



Remove the lower bolts from the up pipe. Once all the bolts are removed, slide the now free pipe away from the exhaust pipe, This will give you room enough to fully remove the exhaust downpipe with ease. Now that the 4" exhaust downpipe is removed, you can easily remove the egr y-pipe.



This pipe needed to be removed in order to modify it or replace it with one already modified. If you choose to replace it, Have one ready and on hand. You will need this for a refunded core charge.



The sheer size of the Magnaflow 4" downpipe puts this factory exhaust y-pipe in perspective.



The y-pipe is 2"



Here's the "scoop" that needs to be removed



The bright crescent area is the only flow area for the exhaust gasses, Now you get an idea why EGT's boils coolant so easily in the cooler, the exhaust is heavily Restricted. Just turning off the egr valve is not enough. This "scoop" has to go.



In another thread I'll show how I modified this y-pipe.
This was just to show you how easy it is remove and replace the up pipe

 

thanks for the excellent write up!

 

Thank you for this, a friend of mine is wanting to weld in a block off plate on the cooler inlet. this will be very helpful

 

apologies to all.
somehow some of the pictures loaded out of sync , wonder how I can fix 'em?

 

PM Maximum4x4 and ask him to edit it for you.

 

Great writeup!!! I am getting ready to do this (already had the EGR cooler replaced once).

My idea to block off the scoop is to heat it up and bend it flush with the sidewall of the up-pipe
so that the scoop actually blocks off the outlet to the EGR cooler.

That way there will be no cutting or welding required and I can leave a very small opening so that
just a little exhaust can still pass through so that my CEL doesn't come on. I have a California truck!

 

Ok I have had a new up pipe for a couple year and now the warranty is up. and with this write up I'll have to give it a try. I think I'll get new hardware. does any one know what size the hardware is. and what about gaskets. Thanks all and Benchwrench

 

even if the pics are not in the right order, I still appreciate it. with your instructions we can still find the right pic for it.

we all have computer problems sometimes...

 

I was originally thinking about this too however came to this conclusion;

The scoop is part of the pipe and has been already stretched out of shape. Any attempt at massaging it back into place will never get it smooth enough even if plasma cut down the center then welded together. Anyway, once the scoop was formed back into place the y flange to the cooler would end up canted and would never again sit flush to mate to the egr cooler inlet and will still transfer exhaust heat to the cooler.
IMHO, too much work to make it look OEM.
BUT if you want to try it that way, please post the outcome.

 

The scoop can also be carefully cut out with a sawsall, then the egr tube can be blocked off.

Here's some photos I found from someone who did it this way:

 

Thanks for the write up and the great pics!

Rep 2U!

 

Thank you.
This is exactly what I've been trying to find
Would you have the procedure to bypass the EGR cooler i.e. use the stock up-pipe, that has been blocked, and re-route the coolant lines from the oil cooler back to the water pump??
I'd like to keep my cost down by blocking the stock up-pipe and using the cooler to support the flex joint.
Also, by eliminating the exhaust flow to the egr valve would the valve send a CEL code??
I have an 03 build date 1/1/03
Thanks,
Gilbert

 

I don't think you will get a code on your 03, but the newer trucks and definitely the California trucks will give you the CEL. That is why I do not want to block mine off completely.

 

Forgot to mention that mine is a California six-oh with 74k miles, and it's out of warranty.
Last month I cleared a P0401 code and I've never removed the EGR valve and I've kept the engine/drivetrain/tires stock without any tuners.

In studing the 6.0 bible it appears that the flow of the exhaust gas is implied by the voltage sent back from the EGR valve???

I'd like to prevent the common egr cooler leak, so any advise would be appreciate.

 

I think you have a better idea with the pictures you listed by using a sawsall. If I thought I could have done a good job with a sawsall, that is the way I am sure that I would have chosen first because of what you state (more stability with the Y for support). Also by using a dremmel tool, I'm sure you could clean up any burs and fraged edges to keep 'em from being sucked up into the turbo .
Will just have to give this thing some time and find out just how durable this patch job is going to last.