I have usually seen new Egr coolers on ebay for $200 - $250.

 

yep, it's just the end piece, does what it supposed to do, get the coolant back to the pump as well as blocks the intake port.

If you are going to go this route, Why not just modify the one you have?

 

Your write up was great. I bought the sneeky pipe from Elite diesel and am ready to install. Need help disconnecting the exhaust from turbo. I loosened the clamp on back of turbo and also two nuts at other end. Don't want to break clamp. Any help would be appreciated.
Ray

 

All went well thanks to your info. I am still amazed at your photos.
Thanks again!

 

question, i love the picture for this procedure. the only question i have is "what good, or bad things happen when i do this"? i have a 06 6.0 250 cc lb, with quadzilla, mbrp 4" exhaust from turbo down, and a pyro meter. 60k. thanks for the support guys
V/R
todd

 

I bought a new 03-04 up pipe off ebay for $50. Does anyone know if it will fit on an 05? I'm hoping to weld in a plug and swap in out.

 

what is accomplished is this opens the exhaust flow to the turbo. It also will help keep the egr cooler from cracking (IMHO, a major design flaw). This mod also keeps the crap from building up on the egr valve. The downside is that it may trigger a cel but that can be rectified by a tuner.

 

Don't know, check part numbers maybe?
once you are into the job, you will know if it will fit. I know the up pipe has a longer "Y" section so that might mean the cooler could be shorter but again, I'm just guessing. Maybe someone else knows for sure.
If you are going to do the "crackpipe " mod, I'm sure that part will fit.

 

Just giving a bump to an excellent thread.

 

this is a 5,000 mile update since the egr cooler has been blocked off and the exhaust up-pipe that is no longer is restricted.

I run an SCT tuner and have been trying different tunes depending on the application, some were for highway some for city driving and some for just out and out fun.
The "CEL" light came on occasionally on only one tune and at times it would "go out" all on it's own. All the other tunes I used never had the CEL to come on, for some reason just one. The light was anoying at first but I'm glad to have it finally gone.

The egr cooler is still in tact and I see no reason to upset a functioning coolant line. The R&R of the egr cooler is a whole lot more labor intensive than just doing the up pipe mod. Unless there was a serious reason such as a cracked cooler, the egr cooler will continue to route coolant.
I am not interested in removing the top half of the engine for no reason just yet. The cooler would have to exhibit failure first.

The Egr Valve on the other hand hasn't been removed just turned off by way of SCT programming.

on another topic, I also cut my first coolant filter open and was very astonished find but only a few grits of sand at the bottom. I pryed open the filter media and found no particles imbedded in the paper element. This was a surprizing find based on the experience here on the forum. The lack of 'grit' makes me feel 100% better about the oil cooler's functionality because I was really worried about what I might find in the coolant filter, in this case-nothing.

So this was just a 5000 mile update since the "upgrades". Yes, modifying the up-pipe is an upgrade in my book and I would recommend that and a coolant filtration set up to everyone.

Happy Trails...

 

did you have the vehicle on a hoist when you did this or did you crawl under it with it on jackstands? I'm getting ready to do mine and deciding whether to do it with or without my 10,000 lb 2 post hoist. On certain jobs the hoist is more problem with raising and lowering it to get to both top and bottom and having the hoist post arms in the way. When we R&R's these at Ford we would remove the entire body with a clamshell and overhead crane. Thanks

 

There's no need for any jacks, hoist or wheel removal. This DIY job was easy enough to do the ground. Once looked over what needed to be accessed, all I used was a mechanics floor creeper but you really don't even need one of those either.

 

It took me 3 hours from start to finish. I had someone help hold the two 10 mm bolts from turning on top but other than that the job was quick and easy, especially with the downpipe removed. I put it up in the air about 2 feet on the hoist so I could maneuver sitting up underneath and use the ladder creeper on top. Be sure to check the condition of the blue intercooler hoses. my upper one had numerous cracks inside and is getting replaced with a heavier duty one.

it is a noticeable improvement in power and turbo spool up and it will eliminate the constant EGR problems and poor performance.

Did you do the Elite Diesel tune to get rid of the check engine lite? Their pipe worked very well.

 

I just removed my "y-pipe to eliminate the scoop and realized that mine has no scoop from the factory. It's a 2005 Excursion with 6.0 engine from the 2004 DIT family. So I just need to weld a plate to cover the hole to the cooler right?? Also after I weld the plate in can I leave the EGR valve plugged in so it won't throw codes? Or should I unplug it so it's closed to the cooler and buy another EGR valve and plug in and let hang so the computer is happy? I'm running the Bully Dog PMT which will erase the codes...but cannot custom tune and have to erase codes everytime I go for a ride.

Thanks for the AWESOME THREAD and all you guy's help!!!!

Don

 

Cut out the scoop and weld a frost plug in the up pipe. Pull the cooler and weld a frost plug in each end, reinstall the cooler using original coolant lines and connections. Now that the cooler is completly sealed wouldn't it become a coffin for the coolant if it ever
did crack internally. You can possibly weld an outlet with a valve or whatever you want
to be able to check if you have coolant on the exhaust side of the heat exchanger.
Cheap but time consuming.