1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
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So I am a newbie to these fords and I am trying to help friend.
Truck is a 93 F150, 4.9L I6 2wd
I can not get the fuel pump to turn on(this is a single tank system)
is there another way to test the fuel pump without dropping the tank? I can not see any real easy way to get to the fuel pump wiring w/o either removing the tank or the bed of the truck.
I have checked the Inertia Switch and it is depressed and when I tried to jump the wires the Truck would still not fire up.
I can sit there and spray carb cleaner into the TB and it runs just fine. The truck does have fuel(at least 3 gallons that I just put in).
I am pretty sure it is the fuel pump or something in the wiring to it. From what I have read on here It seems like that center relay is the fuel pump relay. I have jumpped a wire from the 30 to 87 post on the truck and it still does not turn on the pump. Anything else I should check before I drop $150 on a new set of pumps and get to dropping the tank?
If I Ground Pin #6 on the Test Connector I can get the Relay to Click on and off. So Is this the last bit of testing I needed to do before I replace the Pump?
ok so ... Now that I know I need to replace the pump what is the best way to do it? have a listing of parts I might want to have on hand when replacing? I will be searching the forums and google in a few for details.
I am on the fence if I want to either Pull the Bed or just drop the tank, Pulling the bed sounds a lot easier as it means the tank gets to stay in place with all of the lines
I have done Fuel Pumps on Volvo's in the car more than a few times so the idea is pretty nice and basic so this truck hopefully shouldn't be to bad
How do you now know you need a pump?
Did you have power at each side of the fuse?
With pin #6 grounded of the DLC and the fuel pump relay closed did you have power at each side of the Inertia switch?
If so there is still the fuel pump jumper on the dash and power at the fuel tank plug to check.
Does the fuel gauge read right, if not it may also be a bad ground at the radiator support on the drivers side stopping the fuel pump from running.
Of course you also need a good body ground from the negative post of the battery to the body and not the frame.
Again make sure you use a test light and not a meter for all the power checks in this circuit.
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