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Electric Fans, The TEXAS test.

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  #31  
Old 09-14-2008, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_13894
WOW, that's pretty good. I wonder if that's free are or installed CFM?

Fans' airflow drops a LOT under restriction, and a radiator is a pretty good restriction. If it's free air, I'd expect it to be something like 3000 CFM installed.
the majority of fan companies do a bench test with no radiator. Be Cool is the only company i know of that tests theirs with a radiator on it. thats why their numbers are a lot lower than flex-a-lite but their fans cool twice as good. found that out with my mustang. i couldnt figure out why the flex-a-lite i put on it couldnt keep it cool even though it was the same diameter and cfm rating as the Be Cool i put on it.

so that 6200 would probably drop down to about 3000 or less with a radiator on it. i called Be Cool about the stock fan and they said they didnt have the exact numbers but they would estimate it to be about 5-6k cfm with the radiator at idle. when it comes to cooling you cant beat a good factory fan. one big advantage is that the factory fan blows more air the more rpms you are turning. most electric fans turn a max of 1500-2k rpm.
 
  #32  
Old 09-14-2008, 02:28 PM
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Cody in all honesty, knowing your fab skills are equal if not better than mine I would suggest sending the unit back and just getting the same parts to build your own. That is a lot of coin to cut up when you could start with your own parts and build it just as easy.
 
  #33  
Old 09-14-2008, 06:15 PM
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Tim, that was also a thought as well. I can take two 14" fans and make my own sheet metal shroud for them. That wouldn't be a problem at all. I just need to see what Jegs says about returns. But I soooo want to make this work with an existing setup they sell. It would make it alot easier for everyone else. I know when I see writups with a parts list 50 items long, I'm like.......there has to be an easier solution. But as bad as I hate to admit it, you may be right on this one.

Jake, you know you are always welcome to come see me anytime.
 
  #34  
Old 09-14-2008, 06:54 PM
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I was afraid there might be cutting involved. I'm in the group that won't cut up $600 to make it work. If the dimensions aren't right to start with, for me, it isn't worth it.

I don't have the fab skills I used to AND I don't have the tools either. I guess I have to keep looking for a different solution.

I do appreciate the core dimensions (24.5" H x 30" W). That gives me a starting point.

Thanks for the info, Cody.
 
  #35  
Old 09-14-2008, 10:06 PM
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You could always get a new radiator to fit the fan. haha.
 
  #36  
Old 09-14-2008, 10:54 PM
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You joke, but I thought about that too. But I would have to cut the core support completely out from underneith it, and welding it back in. I want to alter the fans, not the truck. LOL
 
  #37  
Old 09-15-2008, 01:06 AM
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I have some on my 99 and they work great the motor stays even cooler when pulling my 3-horse slant even in the texas heat. The biggest difference they made for me is hitting rpm quicker!!
 
  #38  
Old 09-15-2008, 08:58 AM
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Which fans or set up are you running rednek?
 
  #39  
Old 09-15-2008, 11:09 AM
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Cody- can't wait to see the results.
as for stock fan- IIRC it was like 5500 CFM.
Can you watch for a mileage difference as well?
 
  #40  
Old 09-15-2008, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by secondarychaos
as for stock fan- IIRC it was like 5500 CFM.
Can I revise my previous answer, as that sounds better ?

I seem to remember that number from a company that was selling electric clutches for all three diesel pickups. They had airflow & horses vs. RPM. I can't find it anymore, and I sure wish I saved the graphs.

I also recall 17 HP. I note that Flexrite says 27 HP for the Superduty on their website.

Just as a note, 17 HP is 900 amps at 14V, so the electric fans are a little short of the horses that a belt drive is capable of.
 
  #41  
Old 09-15-2008, 02:02 PM
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But they are much more efficient for the horsepower they have...
Plus the strain isnt directly on the engine until the Alt. comes on, which happens anyways.
 
  #42  
Old 09-15-2008, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by RubberDuck

Jake, you know you are always welcome to come see me anytime.
oh i know!! hopefully ill make a trip that way soo, between 40hrs at work and 9hrs of school, and trying to get ready for a major horse show its been just a bit crazy up here!! plus i gotta change the front cover before i make a trip!!!!!


i had thoughts of 4 smaller fans covering everything and stage the 2 smaller fans to come on a little cooler than the other 2 especially with the h20-air ic or make two of the fans boost/temp controlled ?? i need to get the big alternator or go the twin route too!!
 
  #43  
Old 09-15-2008, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by secondarychaos
But they are much more efficient for the horsepower they have...
I'm awaiting the explanation for the "magic" of the electric fan.

True, the fan clutch is inefficient, but not that much 17 horsepower vs 1/2 horse!!

Plus the strain isnt directly on the engine until the Alt. comes on, which happens anyways.
A alternator is under 50% efficiency, so the 1/2 horse delivered by the fan costs 1 horse out of th engine.
 
  #44  
Old 09-15-2008, 07:53 PM
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im running the flex-a-lite fans the biggest difference i can feel is when that old fan clutch spooled up when the motor is hot dragged the whole truck down. No drag on the new one especially when pulling
 
  #45  
Old 09-15-2008, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by barebackjake
oh i know!! hopefully ill make a trip that way soo, between 40hrs at work and 9hrs of school, and trying to get ready for a major horse show its been just a bit crazy up here!! plus i gotta change the front cover before i make a trip!!!!!


i had thoughts of 4 smaller fans covering everything and stage the 2 smaller fans to come on a little cooler than the other 2 especially with the h20-air ic or make two of the fans boost/temp controlled ?? i need to get the big alternator or go the twin route too!!
The big alternator is the ambalence (sp) one, isn't it? But what is the twin route?
 


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