Just wanted to update you all on what I have done since locating my 78 Dana 60 front.
After crunching some numbers, I might try the lame highway gears-3.55's. I ran that ratio before in a half ton, with my 429, and it worked well, with 35" rubber.
Not the best crawl ratio-but lets face it, fuel isn't getting cheaper, and I want to drive it on the highway-and have some better single digit numbers for economy. Every bit counts.
The new front axle has a 3.54:1 ratio, is tight and good-other than a pinion seal, no biggie. I don't plan on running bigger tires-well mebbe 37's at most, because I still haul stuff in the bed. Loading shae into the back above 5' is not feasable. Besides, most trucks above 38's disappear due to the cops I think-around here.
So, I am thinking I will just change the rear axle assy. to match, instead of doing a gear swap on the front. By the time I buy the gears, bearings if needed, shims and seals to start-the cost is near, or over 500 bucks.
So I asked the guy I bought the front end from, and he said, oh-$500 for a very used D60 rear-open diff(78 or 79). I said no thanks.
After some thought, I figure why not upgrade to newer stronger stuff(my original D60 is 4.10, with a powerloc, but has the 16 spline axles), so a 1995 Sterling comes into play, the same guy quoted me $795...
I contacted another wrecker-larger city, and they wanted $795 for a year older axle, with more mileage.
Now, I found a local one, for $500, right gear ratio, but open diff(I want to try one of them powertrax setups, easy install, but not as tough as a detroit.)
It has 157k(kilometers) on it, and has the bigger yoke.

I know I will have to re-do the spring perches to match my highboy frame, and mebbe the shock mounts, but I'm not worried about it. Just Fab. work.

What U-joint will the 95 sterling axles use? I know I have the "basterd" odd sized ford u-joint already in my truck-will this work?

I know this may not be feaseable, but I can afford it, and it isn't going into a jeep-its a good ol Ford. I want toughness, and the Sterling offers 35 spline axles, which a 14 bolt chevy cannot-stock. Plus I don't want any more chevy parts.
I am trying for maximum strength on a budget, while being highway friendly without an expensive overdrive-for a bigblock.
I live in a mountainous region, so my axles need strength to tow out broken chevys, or bounce up rock trails-with small tires! And will eventually want/use a doubler or something similar.
If I can do this, the truck will appear mostly stock, yet be as tough as nails, as a Ford should be.

So, lets hear some comments or critisism- bring it on!

 

If you do not mind spending the extra money on a 10.25, then go for it. Tha aftermarket is supporting the axle rather well now, and other than higher costs, it is a reasonable axle.
Dont discount the 14B FF. Even though it has 30 spline axles, they are still a massive 1.5 inch axle. The advantage here is that the 14B has a massive 2 piece carrier, and a third bearing to support the pinion. This is huge, and offers quite a bit of strength.
Thes cost of the 14B is very low, and these are all over the place.
I am not saying that the 10,25 is bad, just that it seems quite expensive. Not what I would be willing to pay for one, thats all.
Swaping one in is easy, and the u-joint is larger than you will be running, but the driveshaft is easy to modify.

 

Ive heard you can get a GM 14 bolt for dirt cheap... strongest factory rear there is

 

Just my 2 cents. I know a few guys up my way who haven't had good luck with any of the power trax or e z locker type setups, especially in the rear end under constant use they don't seem to last long. If you want something other than an open diff I would spend the extra money for a full case detroit or a good posi, you will be money ahead in the long run less likely to be left stranded at the least opportune time.

 

Don't forget a D70 out of a early 80's Ford diesel. You will have to move perches anyway.

 

Sorry to resurrect this thread.
Did some research, and the Corp. 14 bolt is one sturdy axle! Seems like a HD full floater 9" setup, with a 10.5" crown.
I also heard the spring perch width will be the same for a highboy? Not sure about that-but do like the aspects of the strength, and setting up gears-pressing bearings on and off to get it right should not have to happen. Not to mention the vast support for the 14 bolts. +1 on the pinion support!
So, will setup my $78 high pinion Dana44 front, just to get it operational for winter, then consider the D60 front/14bolt rear swap when I can get the gearing correct-and pay for it!
Dana is good, but setting up gears is a huge PITA-I will only do that once more(the Dana44HD was alot of work-for one-with a press) for my D60 front-and now I don't have access to a press-so the fun begins!
Thanks for helping me gear up!